I have always used ME flextrack; I am now switching to Atlas Code 83 flex track. The Atlas seems rather “flimsy” compared to the ME flex track. Will the Atlas flex track retain the curve once it is bent or do I need to come up with a Plan B? Also do you want the sliding rail on the inside of the curve or the outside?
I am actually doing the opposite. On straights I find the atlas flex fine. However I find that on curves the ME holds form better as it wants to stay were bent whereas the atlas wants to go back straight. I have found that the atlas performance degrades over time for me on the curves due to this. I have also found that the atlas flex is more prone to popping out of the ties than the ME. This seems counter to what one would think seeing as the atlas track has larger nail heads (and way out of scale). I think it get’s back down to the stiffness of the atlas track versus the ME track.
I did have a little trouble getting used to ME flex at first but now I love it. I am replacing many problematic curve sections with ME and actually only soldering the connectors in at first but leaving the track loose from the bedding. This allows me to work out any issue spots with trains running before permanently adhering the track down.
Obviously everyone’s mileage will vary but that is my experience. I know some people love atlas flex and hate ME. Of course my layout will be a miss match of track all over but to me this looks more realistic anyway as it shows the variations that happen in the real world. Atlas flex straight, ME flex curves, peco switches and a little Shinohara here and there. [8D]
Generally the sliding rail in put on the inside of the curve. but some do it on the outside.
I’ve been using Atlas flex track exclusively on my layout for 7 or 8 years now. The first section of the layout was Code 100, but now I’ve switced to Code 83 for the more realistic appearance.
I don’t have any problem with the flex track staying put after it’s glued in place. Until I do that, it does want to go back to being straight track, so it’s important to pin the track in place until the glue is firmly set. The springiness does make it important to solder rail joints on tight curves before fastening down the track to avoid kinks.
I prefer to put the sliding rail on the inside. When I hold the track in both hands and flex it, it seems more stable with the fixed rail on the outside than it does the other way.
I’ve also used both Atlas and ME track on my current layout. Atlas won’t hold a curve unless you secure it. I solder all rail joints on curves and attach the track with acrylic/latex sealant, so I don’t have any problems with it moving once it’s down.
It matters not where you locate the sliding rail. On the current Atlas product, the spikes on the outside of the fixed rail are smaller than those outside the sliding one, so I placed the fixed rail closer to the viewer to minimize the appearance of the oversized spike heads. In some locations, doing so put the sliding rail on the outside of a curve, while on others it was the inside.
As for Atlas being more flimsy, it seems to me their plastic is more brittle than what ME uses. While I find their track easy to use overall, it does seem prone to shedding spike heads and having the ends ot ties snap off if too much force is applied in handling. I don’t experience many broken spike heads with ME, and never had a tie just snap off outside the rail.
I too have used both. Each has its place.
ME… Keeps a bend, smaller spike heads, alignment is more critical.
Atlas… Wants to go straight but curves are smoother, bigger spike heads, easier alignment.
For fine detailed modeling I would use ME, but for general purpose layout building, and if you are not that detail minded, I would go with Atlas or Peco. Peco has the same points as Atlas, plus the spike heads are smaller. If you look, you can find Peco on sale at about the same price as Atlas. I am using Atlas and Peco now.
As long as the track is code 83, you can use just about anyone’s code 83 turnouts.
I used to shape the curves with Atlas Code 83 flex track and then nail it down, but I could not prevent kinks.
Now, I solder two pieces of 36" flex track together, sliding rail on the inside, and then nail it down. Works great.
Atlas Code 83 flex track does not retain the curve very well once you bend it until you nail, glue, or caulk it in place.
Rich
Thank you for your help and advice!
I use Atlas, because the fact that it DOESN’T take a set on curves helps you lay a smoother curve withless chance for kinking. That flexibility works liek the bent stick method for drawing a curve. Fasten one end and bend the rest around the curve and unless you are tryign to get sub-18" radius curves there is little chance for kinking - you shoudl end up with a smooth flowing curve. ME flex requires you to ‘walk’ along the curve settign it into position. It won;t snap back to straight if you let go of both ends, but getting a smooth continuous radius curve takes practice.
–Randy
I’ve used ME and Atlas code 83 track I find the Atlas track a lot easier to work with.
I too use Atlas/ME/Shinohara and read somewhere that Atlas recommends the sliding rail to be on the inside, although I don’t think this is all that critical. When using any flex track I’ve found Ribbonrail alignment gauges to be very helpful, particularly when soldering a rail joint. Rail joints on curves are soldered prior to forming the curve with the aid of ribbonrail gauges.
Wayne
Wayne,
I absolutely agree with you that the Ribbonrail track alignment gauges are very helpful in setting the proper radius on curves. I recenlty bought some gauges of various radii, and I find them invaluable.
Rich
Very Timely topic as I am preparing to start a new layout and have lots of atlas flex im planning on using. About the Ribbonrail Guages, how many should I have to align my 22" radius curves? Should I just buy one and move it around as im aligning?
Mark
That’s what I do. Just use one and move it around.
You can buy the track alignment gauges in 5 inch or 10 inch lengths. I use the 10 inch length because it gives you a better sense of the required curvature.
Rich
Except for some specialized turnouts, all of my layout was built with Atlas flex track. Yes, it does have a tendency to straighten itself out on curves. I solder two lengths together before laying around curves. I lay a thin bead of acrylic latex caulk on the roadbed surface, then spread very thin with a putty knife; if the caulk squeezes up between the ties, it’s too thick. Then, I press the track down into the caulk and secure with push pins. Most push pins are long enough that they hit the plywood subroadbed before touching the ties, so I push them in so that they press down on the rail tops. If you use foam for your subroadbed, like I have in some areas, I’ve used t-pins to secure the track, then placed weight on top to keep it pressed down until the caulk sets.
Thanks Guys. The advice is extremely helpfull! I recently got a great deal on 300’ of atlas flex track and will be using it for most of my new layout(which im in the process of designing). I feel like a kid on Christmas Day!
Mark.
Mark,
I do exactly as Rich does but I do have one interesting “twist” to my technique: when laying curves with flex track I use the 5" straight ribbonrail gauge across a joint when soldering two pieces of flex track together—I also stagger the joints a little. Then I use the other curved ribbonrail radius pieces to form the flex track curve. This technique of laying flex track curves works very well for me.
Wayne