I’m a little confused as to the difference if any between Atlas Snap Switch and Custom line turnouts. I intend making them remote but seem to recal a forum article about one or the other being only operated from below?? Am I correct or is it old age again ??Also to operate on a DCC system what accessories do I need to operate say eight - ten points?. I don’t mind the points motors being above ground but since I will have order everything over the Internet (No model shop up here in Inverness) I do want to get it right. [%-)]
First of all, [#welcome] to the forum, Mac!
The snap switches are all one size, and are designed to take the place of a 18" radius piece of track. In other words, if you had a circle of 18" radius pieces, you could replace one piece with a snap switch to make a spur going off in one direction. Geometrically speaking, the snap switch is basically a piece of 9" straight section with an 18" radius section superimposed on it. It’s not built to prototypical proportions, which means you won’t find anything like it in the real world with the same geometric configuration. It is a pretty sharp turn to make, and if you are running 6-axle diesels or rolling stock longer than 40’ (scale), you’ll probably have derailment problems.
Custom Line turnouts are built to scale and match the proportions of the real thing. They not only look better on a layout, but they will give you better operation. If you hold up a custom line next to a snap switch, you will see the difference. There are 3 different sizes of Custom Line turnouts, starting with #4, #6, and #8. (There’s also a wye turnout, which is basically a #4 going in two directions without a straight section.). The numbers refer to the angle of the “frog” on the turnout (you’ll have to look that one up), but the bottom line is the lower the number, the sharper the curve of the “diverging route” of the turnout. (Sidebar - the Atlas custom line #4 is actually a 4.5. All others measure exactly as numbered) If you run 4-axle diesels and short wheelbase steam, you can use any of them without problem. Some will say that minimum for 6-axle diesels and longer wheelbase steam is a #6, but you can get them through a #4 (I do on my layout). As a warning, the custom line turnouts do not correspond with any specific radius, so for example, you can’t substitue a #4 turnout for a piece of 18" radius snap track (actually, the curve on the #4 is closer to a 22" to 24" radius).
The custom line turnouts can be operated by the
Diddo on what stokesda said.
The snap track turnouts are DCC friendly because the frog is insulated and cannot be powered. If you have old locos with only one truck pickup they have stalling tendencies when moving across the turnout as slow speeds.
Custom Line turnouts can be powered if you want. They are also DCC friendly.
Both Snap Track and Custom Line turnouts can be operated by the Atlas Twin Coil Switch Machines or the Atlas Manual Switches. They can also be oberated by the undertable swich machines.
Atlas also sells a line of turnouts called Super Track Switches (turnouts). They can be operated by either undertable style switches (tortoise), Atlas also makes an under table switch machine,or ground throws. They cannot be operated by the standard Atlas Twin Coil Switch Machines or the standard Atlas Manual Switches.
Bill
Atlas snap-switches do replace a standard 9-inch straight track section, but not a 9-inch curve. There is a short piece of straight before the curve begins, about an inch and half long as I recall. The snap-switch actually has only a 6-inch curve, but it comes with an additional 3-inch section so you can use it either way.
Snap-switches can be bought with either a manual or twin-coil switch machine. These are the above-table mounts. I have a bunch of them, and I’m doing my best to hide them. The custom-line turnouts are fitted for these same machines, but they don’t include either of them in the packaging. Atlas also makes a below-table mounting twin-coil machine. Unfortunately, it has a fairly short connecting rod, only about an inch long. This will work OK for 3/4-inch plywood as a layout base, but it creates problems for those of us using 1-inch or 2-inch foam bases.
I bought one of the under-table mounts and glued it to the underside of a snap-track turnout, then mounted it by cutting a slot in the roadbed and a little ways into the base foam. So far, so good with this, but if it ever fails I’ll have to rip the track up to fix it. Also, it is impossible to throw this turnout manually.
So, this brings me to this question: Have you considered Peco? They are a UK product, so they may have some cost advantage over an American product (manufactured entirely in China.) Here, they are a few dollars more, and that does NOT include the switch machine. However, the switch machine is designed to mount solidly to the underside of the turnout. They are more solidly-made than Atlas, being all-metal construction vs. mostly plastic. The Peco turnout itself has a spring which holds the points solidly against the rails. Atlas depends on the springy switch machine to do this. (Although the Peco feels more reliable, I’d also like to mention that all my Atlas turnouts work fine, and have
Many Thanks to all who have helped me make my mind up. Once I get something on the board i’ll get back to you. All the best for 2007 “Lang may yer lum Reek!”