Unfortunately that’s just how Atlas #4s are. I’ve bought about ten over the years and they all have that bend, where the “straight” track isn’t actually quite straight. I haven’t tried to fix it because it hasn’t caused any problems for me… but if you’re using sectional track, or trying to make a big yard ladder, I can see how this might be a problem.
For people without google access, It’s a left hand turnout and the straight stock rails bend to the right just past the junction of the points and the closure rails.
One reason I’m using Peco this time. Last layout was #4 Atlas - ALL had that bend int he straight side. Layotu before that had a mix of Atlas #6 and #4 - the #6’s were all fine. THe #4’s - ALL bent. The old layout, that was from 15+ years ago. The previous layout, I bought those probably 9-10 years ago.
ANd I did look through the entire supply at the LHS - ALL of them had this bend.
They worked ok, but sighting along the stright track showed a wiggle at every turnout, Nothing straightened them. Gauge was fine. Trains ran fine - just with a little wiggle.
It’s not a one off, oops, got a bad one - they are ALL like this. Maybe the new manufacturered ones (since the Great Atlas Track Debacle when nothign was available) are better, I don;t have any newer production ones.
So to confirm what I remembered, I dug out an Atlas Code 83 Custom Line turnout.
And sure enough it had the little “wiggle”. I laid it against a steel straight edge and was easily able to “straighten it”, as I remembered from the last time I installed one.
Since I use track nails to hold turnouts, the “center” track nail hole is right in line with the wiggle - push it over, nail it down.
So I got even more curious and adventurous. I flipped it over and removed some of the tie bridging under the rails in the area of the wiggle.
And with a little gentle bend was able to permanently remove most of the wiggle, and considerably less force was necessary to straighten it fully against the straight edge.
Some photos of the “repaired” turnout, not sure how well you can see:
I agree this is a defect Atlas should have fixed a long time ago, and hopefully they have. I have no experiance with newer production runs, the turnout I worked on is easily 15 years old, maybe older.
But considering all “modifications” people did years ago to make PECO code 100 turnouts more RP25 wheel friendly, and the articles published about “tuning up” Walthers and Micro Engineering turnouts, this is an easy an small chore.
Or in my case, if I used PECO code 83, the necessary electrical changes and removing the throw bar spring.
All seems about the same to me, none of them quite “user perfect” out of the box.
This problem isn’t limited to Atlas, and I’ve addressed it on a bunch of turnouts. I use a cutoff wheel in a motor tool to remove plastic between alternating ties under the rails, typically only between the heel of the points and the frog. The resulting turnout can be straightened just as easily as fixing a bend in flex track. The process takes only a minute or so for each turnout.
I noticed this problem to my suprise when I went to use some old Atlas track I had. But its easily fixable. Pretty much did what Mel said.
I drilled a few holes along the centerline of the track just like the ones at the ends Atlas provides. Both through the normal and reverse sides.
Starting at the points end, I attached the switch to roadbed one nail at a time, straightening the switch as i went. You could also lay a swath of adhesive betwixt the ties and roadbed to aid in holding the switch in place.
Atlas #4 have always been too sharp/small for me but I’ve had some Atlas #6 that were a bit bowed. I too found I could pull the bow out using Atlas track nails by nailing down both ends first and then pushing the middle over so it was straight and tacking it down there with a nail.
You can most likely straighten them as you nail them down with the modification, but it I s just a little easier and relives whatever built in stress is in the plastic tie strip.
None of my Atlas #6 had any major bends or bows, but some enough that if you sighted down them you could see the bow over and back again. I didn’t need to cut any of the webbing out. Just a gentle push would straighten it out after both ends were tacked down and the middle held with a track nail.