can someone explain the difference to me between the following lines:
Red Box, Yellow Box, Classic, Master Series Silver, Master Series
Not sure about the Red Box.
Yellow box the offerings from the 80s and 90s (IIRC). I have a yellow box from around 88 or 89.
Classic - the $100ish locomotives. DCC ready, but may not have the details, like MU or trainline hoses, radio antenna.
Master Silver - the $150ish locomotives. DCC ready, highly detailed. MU and trainline hoses, radio antenna, cab wind deflectors, ect.
Master Gold - the $250ish locomotive. A Master Silver with DCC and Sound.
Nick
thanks for clearing that up. 
no one at the train store was able to tell me. 
here is what i mean by red box:
I dont remember when those were made, but they are decent engines. They run well, the detail isnt great by today’s standards but its not terrible. They are not DCC ready but can be converted to DCC without too many headaches.
so basically they are non DCC ready classics…?
The yellow box, early Atlas/Kato drives as in the RS1 and 3, GP9 and others. Most if not all weren’t DDC ready.
The first red box was the U33-36 Classic. This was the first China made Atlas. Been so long I don’t remember if there was a decoder plug. Later red box GP40 Classic etc. The later runs of the Red box have the same detailing as the Master. The eary u33-36s lacked a little in detail.
At the same time that the red box was avail, The Black, Master series came out. These were the first with the dual-mode decoder. 90% of my Atlas roster is Master series. GP38, GP40, SD35 etc.
I get confused on the Silver and Gold, Sound QSI. Others need to fill in the blanks here.
here is the inside of my red box u33 if it makes any difference
Its hard to tell since the pic is small, but im almost sure i see an NMRA 8 pin plug there. If thats the case than it is DCC ready and you should be able to simply plug in a decoder.
there is definitely an 8 pin plug. it has what looks like a small “jumper board” fitted on to it. if this is where the DCC plugs in, then im pleasantly surprised to have gotten a DCC ready loco in a red box! i paid next to nothing for it too. maybe i should get a few more 
i guess that further blurs the distinction between the different model lines.
this is a smooth running loco too! very quiet.
The 1st Atlas U33/36 run had a PC board that didn’t work well with the DCC plug. They sent out free replacements if you asked for them. Subsequent runs had the updated boards installed in them. From what I see of your photograph, you should be OK. The updated boards had a triangle pointing to the #1 pin position and yours appears to have that. I still have both boards and the Atlas instructions should you need a picture of them. Couldn’t you just replace the whole board with a plug n play? Mikie |
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The red box models followed the yellow box units and were the first Atlas units made in China and the first ATlas DCC Ready models. The Classic models were updated re-issues of the yellow box models, most with added details and DCC Ready.
Very early yellow box Atlas locomotives (GP38, GP40, SD24, SD35 and the original runs of Alco switchers) were made by Roco in Austria. They took some liberties with the detailing on the EMD’s but they run great.
I believe my classic series B&M RS3 came in that same type of box, it is non DCC ready and had to be hard wired. I don’t know exactly how old it is as I bought it on ebay a couple of years ago.
Some Red Box is Atlas/Roco as well such as the Cheisse S4.
so based on the replies i think it would be safe to assume that later red box models were made during a “transition period” between “red box” and “classic…?”
so if you get a red box you may get one thats DCC ready and you may not.
The Atlas/Roco S2/4 switchers are excellent runners even by today’s standards. Very heavy, good pulling and run smooth.
I just bought an Atlas “Classic” HO RS-1 locomotive two days ago. I am trying to figure out how to get the hood off to see where to mount the decoder.
From what you guys are saying, the Classic Series “is” DCC ready, yet the box does not mention that at all, nor the parts list page inside the box…I find that strange on Atlas’s part. I also bought an Athearn B&M RS-1, and says right on the box…“DCC Ready”.
Is the Atlas Alco RS-1 “Classic” series indeed DCC Ready , and just a slip-up on Atlas’s part not to advertise that fact?
Just a follow up. There is at least one exception. The very first Gold Masters Series did NOT have sound. As far as I know this only applies to a single run of SD24s. I bought one (CB&Q Chinese Red) expecting it to have sound, but it didn’t. These do not have the big black fancy box, but one very similar to the Red Box.
Basically any Atlas railroad engine you’re ever going to find in a store, flea market, or on ebay, is DCC ready. My first HO Atlas diesel was an RS-1 c.1990, it was DCC ready, at least in the sense that the motor is isolated from the frame, and it had a green “lightboard” for which several companies make DCC decoders (including sound decoders) that are “drop-in” replacements for the light board. Later Atlas added an 8-pin “plug and play” receptacle to the lightboard.
(BTW on most Atlas engines, the frame (with the steps and sidewalkways) are connected to the motor and trucks, you need to lift off just the body and cab and not the whole walkways/body/cab like you do with most diesels to open it up. Be careful to disconnect the handrails in places where they are connected to both the body and the frame.)
A few years ago Atlas came out with their Master Gold and Master Silver lines of new engines. As noted, Gold has sound and DCC from the factory, Silver is the “regular” model with a DCC plug but no decoder and no sound. They just call it “DCC ready” to differentiate it from the DCC equipped Gold line.
When the Gold and Silver lines came along, all existing Atlas eng
Just found an Atlas S-2 switcher (DC) in Rio Grande colors. But the motor is not isolated from the frame.
But fortunately NCE makes a DCC decoder specifically for this loco. Very easy insatllation and they even include the tape and plastic screw for isolating the motor (although the screw was too short and I need to find a longer one). They also include the front and rear lights. This is a nice running, heavy little switcher and I’m really pleased with it.
The only problem for me is there is no room for sound. Does anyone know how to get sound into it. It just doesn’t look possible to me.