Well I finally got my little 15 year old N scale, on-a-hollow-door, layout up and running, so I decided to go see the little old guy downtown who sells some N scale train stuff. Most of my old locomotives are running a little crotchety since being stored for the last 15 years or so (but they are getting better), so I decided to get some new stuff. Here’s how it went: A new Spectrum N&W J-Class which runs absolutely GREAT. A Spectrum Western Maryland 2-8-0 that looks and runs good (with a little fine-tuning). And an Atlas N&W Alco RS-11. WHAT A PIECE OF CRAP! I had always heard that Atlas made good quality stuff, but this thing is TERRIBLE! First, it barely pulls 10 freight cars without slipping, and sounds like a WEED-EATER while running. Lubrication and breaking-in has only made it worse. The motor noise is unbearable, and I can’t get inside to maybe lubricate the motor bearings and worms. Who would have thought that BACHMANN would outshine ATLAS to such a degree??? No more Atlas for me! Anybody else had this type of experience with this Atlas JUNK?
no I have yet to have an atlas loco behave in that way, my atlas trainman GP15-1 runs just as expected. My bachmann Northern quit working on me one time, the solution was simple send it in for repairs. that’s what you could probably do with your RS11.
First and foremost Atlas engines is the top of the line in N Scale…All you need to do is return it to your hobby shop or contact Atlas and advise them of the issue and they will fix or replace your engine…
When I was in N Scale all of my engines was Atlas.
These are just my Southern engines…All was smooth runners.
Do you know how to remove the shell to get at the motor? Tried pulling, but no budge.
Here’s the method I use.
Thank you Brakie! Worked like a charm! I would have never figured that one out…
Your welcome…
Wobblinwheel,
Please contact Don in our Repair Department at 1-800-872-2521 x7133. What you are describing is certainly not normal for an Atlas locomotive.
Paul Graf
Atlas Model Railroad Company
Mr. Graf, Thanks for the reply. Once I finally removed the shell on this locomotive (much easier than I thought) I was able to lubricate the motor bearings and worms. She is much quieter in one direction, but not so much in the other. I don’t know about the limited pulling power problem. Maybe the wheels need to wear in a bit. I’m going to keep running it to see how it goes. The little shop I bought it from may have had it in stock for years. No telling. Sorry about the “bashing”, I was just a little disappointed at the time. Thanks for the phone number, I may use it if no further improvement.
I finally took the loco completely apart and made some changes: Increased the tension on the brass “springs” that press against the worm bearings, applied some heavy grease to the worms. I then cut and installed some small foam pads on either side of the motor (between the motor and shell). Now everything is pretty quiet, in both directions. It’s still very “slippery” though. About 10 cars, max.
What type of cars are you pulling and are you using MicroTrain trucks/couple?
My GP7/9s could pull around 22 cars,my SD35 around 25 and my GP38s around 22…All cars was “stock weight” from the box…My RS1 around 20.
. Me either!
Just about all of my N scale rolling stock have been replaced with Microtrains trucks/couplers. Fifteen years ago, when most were bought, they had Rapido couplers. It was much easier to replace the trucks. Only thing I can figure is the tight turns on my small layout are causing drag. The only two diesels I had from back then are two Life-Like GP18’s. Each one will pull at least 20 cars by themselves. The two new diesels I have will not. The latest is a Kato SD70M with 6-wheel trucks! The wheels just seem to be too “slick”.
Also, most all of my cars are Atlas
hmmmmm, that’s really weird are you sure it’s your locos? my Kato SD70Mac can handle 40-50 cars on it’s own.
I’m beginning to suspect track also. It’s all Atlas sectional track, 9 and 11 inch radius curves laid on cork roadbed. I’m noticing these diesels are stalling with at least one set of wheels on a joint, as if some joints are actually “dips”. Seems the trucks on my new loco’s don’t have enough latteral movement to achieve contact on these dips. It’s kind of a slip-go-slip-go situation. My steamers with tires have no problem. This layout was made in the early 90’s on a hollow door for portability. Is it possible some of the track sections have “warped”?? Maybe a flat block with sandpaper will shed some light.
hmmmmmm, could be that. that’s what some of my locos did on my layout there was rough track, they could pull but they’d flinch and lose power.
Check the roadbed (cork) for any signs of warpage from moisture and check the joints to ensure the rail joiners are still tight.
Some of the rail joiners are definitely not very tight, initially losing contact. Had to slide some of them from side to side to regain conductivity. Some of the Atlas turnouts lost the ability to pass current also. Something internal going on there, soldered jumper wires onto some of them to make them work. There are no VISIBLE imperfections in the track, as the sections are nailed down, but each time an engine stalls, the wheels are over a joint. Just a tap on the top of the loco will get it going again. Thinking about sliding some rail ties under the joiners to raise them up to see what happens.
Ok…You’re loosing contact at the joints…Try using long nose needle pliers and gently squeeze the jointers to the rails…This should tighten the joiners against the rails…