Am thinking (a dangerous thing to do) about doing a small N layout on a HCD.
Atlas lists remote, manual and custom line turnouts. Is there a quality difference between the remote and manually operated ones and the custom line?
I picked up several turnouts at a show with no machines. Does Atlas sell a manual switch machine or do you have to use a ground throw for manual operation? Can’t find a manual one listed anywhere.
Thank you,
Richard
The ‘regular’ ones are snap-switches, witht he included little extra piece they are a repalcement for a 9 3/4" radius curve on the curve side and a standard straight piece (5" maybe? been a while since I did N scale) on the straight route. They are available manual or powered.
Custom Line turnouts are made to specific frog angles. Dunno if the N scale ones are the same way, but the HO #4’s actually have a frog angle of 4 1/2. The HO #6’s are actual #6’s. These do not simply drop in to replace straight and curved sections, but even the #4 is a more gentle curve than the Snap Switch. Also the Custom Line versions are not continuously curved, they have a straight section through even the diverging route and are more prototypical.
Now, if you are goign to use all 9 3/4" radius curves, there’s really no point in using the #6’s, the limiting curve will be the 9 3/4" by far. If you use 11" curves as the minimum, you’ll want at least the #4, the Snap Switches will be the limiting factor with the other curves all being 11" radius. #6 turnouts would not be out of line if all other curves are 11" or larger.
–Randy
I use the custom line switches and use ground throws on all of them. The throws can be next to the switch on either side. I have some mounted as far away as 7".
Under table throws such as a Tortoise can also be used.
Richard,As much as I like Atlas products it pains me to no end to mention there are some issues with their N Scale switches.
Serious N Scalers has converted from Atlas switches to Peco.
I use Atlas switches with Caboose ground throws. I’ve had very few issues with the and have only had to replace one because it was defective. The others I’ve replace because I damaged them when re-laying some track.
To improve the look of these switches (and Atlas Code 80 track in general) I paint the ties Floquil “Grimy Black.” It kills the plastic shine. I then paint the rails “Rail Brown.” This is done much more easily on the work bench than on the layout.
You should cut off that funky looking tie at the ends of the turnouts and sectional track. (Have you ever seen a tree grow with a loop in it and be used for a real RR tie?)
Check the turnouts with an NMRA track gauge and correct any problems that you find.
File the points to make them sharper so wheels won’t ‘pick’ them.
Actually, many “serious” N scalers (whatever that means) have moved to Atlas Code 55.
But excellent (one might even say, “serious”) N scale layouts are being built with Atlas C80, Atlas C55, and PECO track, among others. Blanket statements such as this based purely on personal preference are not illuminating, IMHO.
Well, Larry, I started with 4 Peco C80 switches and none are still on my layout.
The rails kept coming lose from the plastic spikes. I have had to replace some Atlas switches, though it was mostly due to my improper installation. Now I can easily fix what ever is messed up on an Atlas switch.
The Peco my have been bad from the start. Though I don’t know. But I do understand that there are lots of veriables in the equiptment and I do know that others have great luck with the Pecos.
I’m a fan of Peco Code 80 N Scale turnouts (with Atlas flextrack btw) - been using them exclusively with no particular problems for 15 years. They are pretty robust.
I especially like the fact that because they have a spring connected to the throwbar, no seperate groundthrow is needed. They stay where thrown. I just throw it with my index finger.
Since I have a walk around layout, I only motorize the few turnouts not located conviently close to the edge of the layout. All Atlas turnouts need either a groundthrow or motor to keep them aligned.
If I was starting over, I might go to Peco Code 55 for the same reason. While many of my local N Scale friends are fans of Atlas Code 55, they have chosen to motorize virtually all the turnouts on their layouts.
To each his own.
Thank you all for your comments and cautions. Since they appear to be slightly used, but not abused, I will do the tune ups and probably give them a little extra time to prove their worth before completely securing the track in the area.
Not sure whe this project will start, but if I place an order, might as well get the ground throws and anything else I need to save postage.
Thanks again,
Richard
A “serious” modeler accepts nothing less then trouble free operation and uses the best ways to achieve that goal.A serious modeler is focus on era,road name,details etc.
As C55 yes,serious modelers has moved on to the smaller rail and away from the “pizza cutter” wheels.
N Scale is finally getting body mounted couplers on freight cars.
Now they need to design a coupler that is void of the MT coupler “slinky” action.
Here’s some Atlas Code 80 track I installed on a siding. I painted it as described in my above post.
