I’d like to buy an S1 for my road. Atlas S1 or Proto 2000 S1?. Which is the better runner, which will by easiest and/or give the best outcome with DCC/Sound?
I have a Proto and am very happy with it. I installed the original motion decoder myself, along with replacing the original headlights with LEDs. When I wanted sound, I had that done by a pro. The insides are tight on this locomotive.
The original cab end headlight was fed by a plastic light pipe. It worked, but provided very little illumination.
The Atlas S2 is pretty good. A bit fast maybe, for a switcher, but pulls well. Runs very quietly and smoothly.
We only have Proto 2000 SW 1200 and they are pretty smooth but not current Walthers Proto.
Mine are DC only. The Atlas is Silver series DCC ready.
I have an older DC only Atlas/Roco S1. It is a magnificent runner and a surprisingly good puller. I have owned it since it was new and has never had the first problem.
It looks to be very difficult to convert to DCC. Every possible space is filled with weight. I have only had the body shell off once, to paint it. You should look for one that is DCC ready or equipped.
I have no experience with the Proto S1, but I cannot imagine anything better than the Atlas model.
-Kevin
The Proto 2000 S1 is a terrific little switcher. I paid <$30 for a new one back in 2005 when sellers were dumping them on places like eBay.
The one thing you need to do to a Proto S1 before converting it to DCC is to isolate the brushes of the motor from the frame. Otherwise, your decoder might go poof should you run into a short.
While I don’t have the Atlas S1, I do have one of the newer Atlas S2s and they are smooth, good pullers, and quite handsome looking.
Tom
At one time, I had five Proto 2000 S1s on my layout. They are great runners and great pullers.
But, as Tom says, before converting to DCC make sure that the motor brushes are isolated from the frame. They are supposed to be since the Proto 2000 S1 was always advertised as “DCC Ready” but some production runs goofed up.
So, how do you know? Simple. Look for the orange wire. It needs to be disconnected and moved to a different location so that the brush is not in contact with the frame via the orange wire. A one minute operation.
Rich
I said mine was an S1, but it could be an S2 or an S4 I guess. The box is long gone.
My other diesel switcher is a Kato NW2, and it as also a terrific running locomotive.
-Kevin
My Atlas S1 runs very smoothly. It was DCC ready.
Simon
Thanks all for the informed responses! That gives me more than enough to go on. I will start lurking for the right one for me RR.
I have a pair of P2K S1’s, and I sort of recently came across an Atlas/Roco S2 that needs a repaint.
The P2K models ARE DCC Ready - as in, they wil run and not fry the decoder if you jsut plug it in,. howver, if the loco should ever derail and one of the wheel flanges touch the frame - then it WILL fry the decoder. Unless you make the modification to isolate the lower motor brugh and run a replacement orange wire instead of using the frame.
The Atlas one needs similar treatment if you buy a DC one and convert it yourself - plus a nylon screw to replace the metal motor mount screw. A picture of that Atlas one looks to have the xact same motor as the P2K, and the brush holder on the P2K is not connected tot he metal part of the motor frame, it’s set in the plastic end cap. I can’t imagine the Atlas one is that difference, but I don’t have that generation of Atlas units.
–Randy