I’m kind of electrically challenged so I was hoping you guys could help me. Will this toggle switch work for the Atlas under-table switch machines?
( ) = momentary
Type Switching Positions Amps
SPDT C/OFF MOM (ON)-OFF-(ON) 10
Contact Resistance: 50m ohm max.
Insulation Resistance: 500 VDC 1000M ohm min.
Dielectric Strength: 1500 VAC, 1 min.
Also, should I get solder or screw terminals?
Thanks for the help.
That switch sounds like the ticket. I dont know the stats on my switches but they are momentary SPDT. What do you need solder or screw terminals for?
To connect wires to the switch, I think. The website says “SWITCHES ARE AVAILABLE IN SOLDER OR SCREW TERMINALS”
Solder or screw terminals will both work.Screw terminal allows connection without using a soldering iron. You can remove the screw and solder the wire if you wish. Screw terminals work best with solid wire. For stranded wire you should use a crimp-on terminal or tin the wire first.
Ahh, I thought you meant those big strips that you could solder or screw wires to. If it were me I would buy the solder terminals since I think it would still be a better connection years down the road. With a screw terminal you are just relying on contact, the wire or contact could corrode or the wire could come loose.
If you’re “electrically challenged” as you say, though, you may find working with the screw terminals easier.
Overkill, but will work. What are you using to fire it? Atlas wants a capacitor discharge system to be happy. Needs to fire one time then nothing. That is the most importanat thing that there is 100% off.
Electrical on a DC operation is simple. On DCC you need a degree from teh Randy R. institue of DCC study.
I plan on using the AC terminals on an old Bachmann power pack to power all the switch machines. Will this be enough to power 40 machines as long as they are powered one at a time? What do you mean by overkill? I’m not quite sure how these switches work. Are they “spring loaded” so when I push on it to activate the machine at will immediately go back to the OFF position as soon as I release the pressure? Or does the switch stay in the ON position so I can see which way the turnout is thrown?
Wow, I have a lot more questions than I thought! Thanks for taking the time to answer.
Thats what I do, I power around 35 machines from an old MRC power packs AC terminals. You dont need a capacitor discharge, you are only firing off one at a time anyway and its no problem.
Your switches should be spring loaded, being able to see what way the turnout is thrown would be nice but if you leave power to the atlas machines they will burn up. A general rule of thumb is to switch turnouts back to the straight route or mainline. But if you arent sure its no trouble to just hit the switch and make sure.
Overkill as in a 10 amp rating. The max amp is 1.5 to 2.5 UNLESS it shorts. Othet than that you are on the right track.
I’ve built a capacitive discharge circuit for my twin-coil turnouts, both Atlas and Peco. The Pecos really need it, but the Atlas machines really don’t. However, I’d still recommend a CD circuit, because it will drive even the Atlas machines much better, particularly if you have a big layout with long cable runs. For the “electrically challenged,” by the way, building a CD circuit is a good way to get your feet wet. It’s only a couple of resistors and capacitors plus a diode rectifier, and sooner or later every model railroader needs to learn basic put-together wiring skills.
Nobody mentioned it, but I’ve found that 4-conductor (2-pair) telephone hookup wire from Home Depot is the best stuff to use for wiring up my turnouts. It’s cheap (about $9-10 for a hundred foot roll) and contains the 3 wires you need for each turnout, plus a spare.