I think I’ve discovered the perfect disguise for the unsightly Atlas remote Switch machines. I live near the Port Huron CN (GTW) yard and have discovered that the CN uses a CNG fueled heating system on the TO machinery in the yard. Sooooo,any opinions on using a scale CNG tank to hide the Atlas machine?
If the hammer doen’t work, get a bigger hammer!
Could work in places where said heaters would make sense…
For the guys who model down south/out west, probably wouldn’t help much – though some of the guys here have used the “small hill” approach to cover the machine… the rest of the guys don’t use Atlas machines [;)].
Then there are the guys who only have an oval of EZ-track [:D]…(me) [:-^]
Then there’s the people that put them UNDER the layout where they belong.
Or the even swifter people who mount them at the aisle edge of the layout (just inside the fascia) and limit the under-the-layout clutter to a simple mechanical connection…[:-^]
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
The code 83 ones are pretty small. I use them as-is, makes for a dual-control switch - hand-operated or remote.
I’d like to see how that’s done if you have a 3 or 4’ distance to breach.
Use the old piano-wire-in-the-tube method from activator to drawbar?
I made one “hybrid” using the Peco concept of attaching the machine to the underside of the turnout. I took an Atlas “undertable” machine and glued it to the bottom of the turnout. Then I gouged out the roadbed and mounted the whole thing. It’s been down a year or two now with no problems
Of course, I plan to live forever. For both concepts, “So far, so good.”
Gluing it to the … DANG, I like that!
And will remember it. Thank you!
Mine are connected with monofilament fishing line. I’ll admit that I don’t have any four foot runs (my benchwork maxes at 32" wide) but there’s no reason why the tension line couldn’t handle even longer distances.
Reverse motion (away from the switch machine) is handled by extending the fishing line past the end of the Anderson link, through a small screw-eye, and hanging a weight off it. That negates the need to try to push a string.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Hi!
I prefer Caboose Hobbies throws for turnouts near at hand, and use the Atlas machines for the others. I’ve found that a little wash of brown/black paint dulls them into the background somewhat, and I’ve also built up a plaster “rise” around their perimeter. With some groundcover added, they are easy to overlook. It ain’t perfect, but it works for me.
ENJOY,
Mobilman44
There’s one Atlas machine hidden under the greenery here:
And this picture shows 2 Stealth Ninja Atlas machines - one under the pile of salad in the foreground, and the other inside the Swift packing plant.
Yes, I really don’t like the look of these things, and I’ve managed to cover most of them up, one way or another. Now, though, I buy Peco turnouts so I don’t have this issue.
I’ve been following this ( http://conrail1285.com/news.asp?storyid=31 ) and it works well. Admittedly, this is all N scale track with N scale throws, but if you used N scale throws in HO scale…
Doublesided tape works very well on the undertable switch machines. Also allows minor re-positioning.