When I started my layout in 1988, I used atlas under table and side by mounted switch machines. I have a Snapper capacitor discharge system powering these switch machines. Where I have passing sidings, both turnouts at the ends of the siding are powered by a single toggle switch and momentary push button to activate, plus, I have also used Atlas relays to power the frogs and cut power to the by-passed siding and activate power to the active siding. So, the reality is I’m more or less powering three switch machines when I change routes through a siding.
Where I am only powering one switch machine and relay to power a single turn out and frog, the Snapper capacitor discharge system snaps both with real authority. However, the siding system described above seems to lack power. Am I over taxing the Snapper by powering the two turn outs and one relay?
I understand there are more expensive systems available and maybe in the end I will have to bite the bullet and go to a Tortoise type of slow motion switch machine; but, I would prefer to use what I have as changing out some of my switch machines will be a real chore!
Your comment about throwing both one machine and one relay with “real authority” indicates to me that the Snapper itself is working fine.
Is the siding a long way from the Snapper, and are the wires small? You may be eating up power in the wires. A heavier gauge wire would help this.
The other possibility is that the turnouts aren’t throwing freely, or perhaps the relay is sticky. If this were the case though, I’d expect one of the three to not work while the others were fine. Or, you may have a short in that part of the circuit, caused by inadvertently-touching wires.
If it were wire size and distance from the Snapper were the problem, then the closer sidings to the Snapper should work better than the farther one, which is exactly the opposite. I agree, the problem is not the Snapper.
When first built, all of these siding set-ups worked like clock-work. After ballesting the track, I did have to perform some maintenance to get them back to operating properly. The problem has arisen since I took a sabbatical from Model Railroading from 2005 to last Winter, when I got back into the hobby.
Would powering the turn-outs and relays with a second Snapper be helpful?
Adding a second or third Snapper would be cheaper than changing to Tortoise Machines. You would have to rewire the machines so that when throwing two or three machnes they are on different Snappers.
I suspect that whatever maintenance was needed to get them running properly needs to be done again. A second Snapper won’t help at all.
I’d suggest pulling the switch machines off the switches if that’s convenient. That will show once and for all if it’s sticky trackwork.
Another possibility is the control panel wiring. If the pushbutton or the toggle is flaky, that could give similar symptoms. Try jumpering over it with a wire or alligator clips (momentarily, of course) to see if that’s the problem.
If I have to pull them off, I will replace them with a better system, as working on them will be difficult. Like I said, previous to my leaving the layout inactive for 6 years everything worked great. This leads me to believe track work is not the problem. It may be corrosion at the terminals which was going to be my next step in attempting a remedy.
The Snapper needs about 20-24 volts input for more than 2-4 turnouts. My Snapper will throw a 7-9 combination of Atlas and Pecos (Route Control) with no hesitation.
If you do have adequate power for your Snapper, then the following would be my next go-toos:
If the layout was inactive for 6 years, I would suspect one electrical issue if you are using Atlas switches to control your turnouts, corroded contacts, spray all your control switches with contact cleaner like CRC 2-26 (avail at HD or Lowes and other stores).
Otherwise, I would expect mechanical problems. Check and manually operate all the turnouts and feel and see how each one opereates. Some of them may have become tight with 6 years of inactivity. What kind of room has the layout been stored in? The iron bar that is thrown by the 2 coils can and will rust, depending on the amount of moisture in the room and can get severe enough to restrict the movement of said bar. Working the turnout back and forth manually may loosen things up again. Some Kadee Grease’Um (graphite powder) squirted in one end can help