I have been trying to decide what remote switch controls I want to use for my layout. I picked up a couple N scale Code 55 turnouts the other day and on the back of the box it shows how to hook them up to an atlas remote switch BUT it doesn’t make much sense to me. It shows two terminal joiners hooked to the switch track and then another wire that is to be connected to a small loop that comes off the side of one of the ties…But how in the world would this switch the track…does it make it magnetic??? Any answers to clear my head would be appreciated.
the thire wire, along with one of the other two wires likely makes a circuit based on which way the points are. assuming this is how the wiring actually works (i’ve not seen the back of the box, so i’m doing my best here) wire 1connects the solenoid to the third wire (through the push button), and will throw the points toward the spur, giving wire 2 power, which reverses the polarity in the solenoid, so the next time you press the button, is throws the points back to the main.
Will having DCC affect this or will it work ok either way?
i don’t know, as the last time i HAD an Atlas snap switch was years ago, and it was only connedted to a DC layout.
far as i can tell with how DCC works, it should be OK.
though now that i think about it, they have 3 wires coming out of the switch machine already hardwired to it (red, green, and black perhaps?) that you connect to the upper thre terminals of the switch control box. then you connect whatever they say (either the DC or AC from a transformer) to the two terminals on either the left or right (you can use the other side to chain multiple units together).
[:I] I’m still confused, I suppose I should just stop being cheap and get a tortuise huh? [:D]
I have DCC and use the atlas switches. You might be able to power it off of the DCC track power, but I wouldnt suggest it. All of mine are powered by the accesory terminals on an old power pack. Are you going to use the controls that come with the turnout or use your own switches? Depending what you use the wiring is different.
Well I have an old MRC Tech II that I was thinking about using but I’m not sure how to wire that…If you have any insight I’m all ears [:)]
One more thing…I have the custom switches so they don’t come with any controls
OK, its really pretty simple wiring. One wire goes from the accesory terminals on your power pack to the middle terminal of your SPDT switch. The other wire off your accesory terminal goes to the middle lead on your atlas switch machine. Then run one wire from one side of your switch to one side of the switch machine. Do the same with the other side. If it throws the wrong way, or is reversed, just switch the 2 outside wires on the switch machine.
Important!: when buying switches, get momentary SPDT switches, sometimes theyre called mom (momentary) on-off-on. You need momentary switches that spring back to the middle after you throw them, if you leace power going to the atlas switch machine it will burn up. When you throw the switch just give the control switch a quick flip and let it spring back. dont hold it to one side or the other.
Here is one of my control panels:
Control switch wiring:
Switch machines:
Thank you, you’ve been very helpful [:D]
Joe, how did you line up the atlas machine? also did you change the wire in the point, if so HOW. I am using the #66 (maybe) if I can solve the FROG problem.
To line it up, I put liquid nails on the back of the switch machine, and throw the throw bar to one side. Then stick the bar into the hole on the turnount and move it over so the turnout is fully thrown and press the switch machine into place. Then throw it both ways going above the layout to make sure its aligned right. The liquid nails will hold it in place but you can still slide it around if it isnt positioned right. I made no modifications to the points or frog, so I cant help you there.
Joe you are NOT powering the frogs?
Nope, hasnt been a problem.
That is very interesting. The 0-4-0 stops at the frog 90% of the time at switching speed. THe hot frog is no problem. We have a 24x60 testing yard to try all this out.
I think we are using the MONK approach to this rail road. On e person wanted to use #2 copper for the bus wire.
The smallest engine I have is a 44 tonner. Doesnt have any problem. I guess the decision to power the frog or not depends on what you run.
In short : It doesn’t.
The diagram on the back of the package is for wiring the power to the turn-out and has nothing to do with making the switch points move.
That little loop on the end of a tie is for powering the metal frog. If you choose to power the frog, to prevent shorts, the frog must change polarity depending on which way the points are thrown. The Atlas motors have terminals from which you can power the rails and frog of the turn-out. The motor will automatically change the frog’s polarity to match the route selected (diverging or mainline) thereby preventing a short. (Of course, if you choose to not power your frog, this is not necessary.)
To move the points, the motor has a rod that sticks up through your subroadbed into a hole in the throw-bar. This rod moves when the motor is activated to select a route.