I have recently encountered a problem with several new Atlas code 83 remote switches. I am wondering if this is a defective switch or something I am doing wrong. I am a new modler. I have installed about 20+ such switches on my layout and have encountered this problem on 2-3 switches. The problem is that when my engines enter the switch they momentarely lose power or hesitate. If I reset the switch manually the problem goes away for a while then returns. I have thought about, but not done, lubricating the switch with conductive lubricant? I am sending this same question to Atlas.
It sounds like the switch points aren’t making good, firm contact with the rails, do these have switch machines attached? If so, look to see if something is obstructing the switch points. The points carry the power through to the frog, if you lose contact, the engine will stop.
Yes they have switch machines. I thought what you say is what the problem is. Inspection shows nothing interfering. Reswitching solves problem temporily but then it reoccurs.
The bulit-in switch motors might be bouncing and allowing the point rail to not hold firmly to the stock rail, thereby causing loss of electrical power. The throw bar may be binding on something and not allowing the switch to throw all the way. The rivets used to fasten the movable point rails may be too loose and allowing the rail to move and lose contact if Atlas is still using rivets in these turnouts.
You need to throw the offending turnouts and then carefully inspect the point rail tips to see if there is any gap between them and the stock rails.
Slightly bending the tip of the point rail outward with a small pair of pliers may cure some of this problem if it’s a case of the rail not making good contact. Soldering a short piece of jumper wire between the stock rail and point rail would be a more permanent solution. I have had to do that to several Atlas turnouts over the years.
I have the same turnouts on my layout, 2 were very finicky about this, they required a good amount of pressure against the rail to conduct. Upon further inspection, on 1 turnout, the switch point had become disconnected from the throwbar, it would route the wheels fine but would lose continuity. On the other I did what was suggusted above, slighty tweaked the points to rest firmly against the rail.
A member here has a great website with a lot of good information. He covers the issue here. I haven’t had to go to this length because mine work fine now but here is a permanent fix.
Try this out… When a loco stalls, go over and lightly squeez the end of the point to the track it is in contact with. Might be hard to get to, but if the loco suddenly gets power, then you know it is not making good contact. As they are new, they are probably not dirty, but they may need a little LIGHT bending to assure more solid contact.
I have had this problem on brand new atlas code 83 trunouts. Regardless whether the point rails make good contact with the stock rails is illrevelant. The reason the loco works after you switch the points is because it regains contact at the pivot point then loses contact once the engine runs over the turnout.
The problem is the point rail at it’s piviot point is not making contact with the piece of metal beneth it that also contacts the stock rail.
The remedy is to remove the turnout. Turn it upside down and solder a small wire 24-26 gauge from the pivot point to the stock rail. There was an article in MR about it a few years back. If you do this it will fix the problem.
I would agree that the pivots are probably a bit sloppy and allowing the point rail to flop sideways a bit. Let the engine stall, and then use a dental pick or probe, the one with the half-circle point to reach under the engine and pull the point rail towards its stock rail. If you get the engine coming back to life, you have found the problem. A light squeeze or a tap with a flat-tipped drift pin may fix things for you…the other problem is how to support what is below the turnout at that point so that you don’t wreck the whole thing when you adjust it, particularly with a tap on it.
As just suggested, what most guys do is take a small filament of wire from a braided 14 gauge wire, and solder it from the point rail to the stock rail. You can cover it with weathering and ballast later if you don’t like how obvious it may be. It should be soldered close to the heel of the point rail…nearest the rivet.