I’m strongly considering using Atlas 100 track because as one person puts it, it’s bulletproof. I was looking at the Atlas 100 turnouts and I noticed that there were two types–like regular and high octane, with the Customline being about $1 more. I’m wondering what the difference is and if it is worth the $1.
I also noticed the Peco switches were 83. Do they not make a 100? Even so these are $10 more than the Atlas. Why are they so much more expensive/better? I know this is an old topic, but still don’t get it.
If you’re looking at Atlas turnouts one issue to consider is that the frogs are unpowered and this can be a real issue for locomotives with sound. My BLI locomotives would frequently stall when hitting the frogs on Atlas switches (these were the Customline ones). This is partly due to their unpowered nature but also because they are a little bit higher than the rest of the rail so that when a six-axle truck was going over it the height difference meant that 1 axle ended up in the air and a 2nd was on the unpowered frog, enough to stall a power-hungry sound locomotive. I was able to deal with this problem by sanding the metal frogs down so they were flush but this was an imperfect and time-consuming solution.
I think the two types of switches you are looking at are the Snap switches and the #4 custom line. The snap switches are designed to work with 18" radius curves and I believe are actually an 18" radius curve imposed on a piece of straigh track. This is not very realistic and is also about as sharp a turnout as you can get. The custom line switches are numbered in the standard way (4, 6, etc.). I have heard that the #4 custom line is a good choice with curves in the 22" range since it is actually closer to a 4.5 (See Armstrong’s book on model railroad design).
With the Customline turnouts, you have wire them either for a Tortoise or a ground throw. I’ve been running Code 83 exclusively and have really had no problems with the Atlas turnouts - either operations wise or with any locomotives with sound. I’ve been using the Snap track turnouts with the built-in switches.
Most of my turnouts are Atlas code 100 Snap-switches. I haven’t had any problems with the switches themselves, but I run short 4-axle diesels and 60’s era cars. I have a couple of #6 Customlines that cause occasional derailments, and I notice a lot of clicking and clacking at the wheels pass over those frogs. I also have a couple of Peco code 100 turnouts, which I got because I needed a curve-on-curve turnout, and Peco is the only choice for those. You can see the higher quality of the Peco’s just by holding them side-by-side with the Atlas turnouts. Yeah, you can look at the sales receipt, too. The Peco throws are spring-loaded, so the points click solidly agains the rails, and stay there. You can even use them without a motor, and apply the Big Finger Switch Machine when necessary. (I think you need to remove the springs if you use Tortoises.)
I grew up with Snap switches, and they filled my layout back in the sixties when those 4-axle diesels were “modern equipment,” and my own body parts fell in the same category. I’ve actually re-mounted a lot of my old Snap switch motors on new Snap switches, and they still work just like they always did. Bulletproof and cheap.
I hate them. Those switch motors are big and ugly, and after all these years it’s finally gotten to me. I put Peco machines on the Peco turnouts, and I love the performance, reliability and appearance. Now, I’m thinking of trying out a couple of Rix switch machines to replace the more visible Atlas motors. My track is all down now, but most isn’t ballasted yet, so it’s now or never.
Space, I’d recommend the Atlas Code 83 turnouts. They look great and, with a little tuning, work just as well as they look. You’ll save many $$$ over some of the alternates. Don’t be afraid of Code 83. It looks MUCH better and is reliable, IMHO.
I just saw my first Peco layout and didn’t like the way it looked. I thought it looked as unprototypical as Atlas 100. Big plastic molded rail spike heads. Atlas 100 is pretty bullet proof. It gets a little confusing because they sell snaps, custom lines and mark III’s and mark IV’s.Most of which, you can power the frogs on.Caboose Ind. makes a ground throw with power routing leads on it. I think the 83’s look better, but they do seem a little more delicate than the 100’s
Mouse, could I talk you into hand-bulding your turnouts? See the Fast-Tracks site (I’m not at my computer, so I don’t have the URL handy in my favs to punch it for you), and watch the 75 minute video online. It is worth it, Chip. I learned a lot in my first view, including the fact that I very much want to learn how to do this. His method is foolproof, if a bit pricey intitially for the tools, but once you have built your first (about an hour), the rest is just a dance.
Please take a look.
Also, as you know, I am using 22" curves in EZ-Track, but I also use their wide radius snap-switches with remote activation and a built-in solenoid. So far, so good- 100% reliable. Like you, I had to file the points, but you will see in the video that it is a must and easily done…with the right device at hand.
My eventual goal is a (gulp) double-slip. I think his technique is all the help I’ll need.
Chip - Do not waste your time with ‘Snap Switches’. Thes have a plastic frog, and a continuous 18" radius curve through the turnout. The Custom Line turnouts are built like prototype turnouts, and have a solid metal frog(insulated). These turnouts are ‘DCC Friendly’ and like others have noted are ‘bullet-proof’. I have DCC and sound - no problems running 4 or 6 axle diesels, or my sound equiped 2-8-0, 4-6-0, or 2-8-2’s through them. Unluss you have some small 2 axle ‘critter’ or industrial type engine, the frog should cause no problems. You can always power the from via auxillary contacts on a switch motor if you feel you need that additional contact. Peco also has very popular turnouts. I use Atlas Code 100 Custom Line turnouts and have only replaced one out of 43 turnouts in 18 years(and that was my fault). I just took a break and ran a BLI 2-8-2 through some #4 turnouts and a couple of WYE turnouts on my layout - no problems with the sound! The bottom line is that you need a good solid roadbed, and take care laying the turnout - they seem to work much better then!
I have both snap and custon line on my layout, both are reliable, customline are more proto looking than the snap switches, I have had no problem with either types, I run large six axle units regularly. I’ve collected all these parts over 30 years, But if I was starting now I would only use customline switches.[banghead]
I have over 150 Atlas #4’s and #6’s on my layout and NONE of them have the frog powered. There are even 2 snap switches in there too!
Now I have to admit I also do not run Steam engines and this is the biggest problem there is to a dead frog turnout.
If you are going to run the short wheel base engine then you may have to power each of the frogs. Caboose Ind has hand throws that have contacts that you can use to power the frogs!
Hello… I have a number of Atlas Custom Line turnouts on my layout,(code 100), and I have developed a method of making these turnouts much more acceptable to my nitpicking self. #1) The frog of these turnouts is too deep and the point does not extend far enough into the frog. This causes wheel drop whenever a car or loco goes thru the turnout. Personally, I can’t stand to listen to the racket as a car passes thru the frog. To fix this problem I use styrene strips.
The width of the frog rail is .050. Using styrene strip which is .050 wide by .020 thick, I place one layer of strip on either side of the frog point. I use ACC to secure the plastic. When the glue has set, I take a jewellers flat file with grooves on the sides and run it thru the frog to even things out. I then take a second cut flat file and file the tops of the frog and surrounding rails. The frog is often higher than it’s surrounding rails. Bringing everything to the same height,( to me anyway), is a no brainer! #2) Next, I look at the area where the point rails join the stock rails. ( at the frog end). Very often there is a mismatch between the rails. If this mismatch is not too bad, I will simply put the point rail into the position I want and file the two rails together. I file this area until I have achieved a smooth transition from one rail to the next. If the rivet holding the point rail is too loose, I tighten it up before doing this step. This also makes the turnout feel more positive. #3) Next, I look at the point rails where they adjoin the stock rails at the throwbar. Here, I just give the joint a bit of a file to make sure that it is a smooth transition. #4) With all this fileing, the rails are a bit rough to say the least. The last thing I do here is take a piece of 400 to 600 grit sandpaper, ( metalite if you can get it!), and I sand the turnout rails to smooth. This does not take that long and the result is shining rails. Contrary to prevailing opinion, I have not found this fileing and sand
The molded on spikes are much finer and so the track is much more fragile. I tried to do a modular unit (to take to the mall / trade shows) with code 83 and ended up having to replace broken pieces often. Almost after every show. The tinyest bump sideways on the rail and rrrrrriiip. This also makes it less appropriate for a childs layout where there is a chance they could step/kneel/lean on it too hard.
The only other issue I know of is if someone would have really old locos and rolling stock with the really large wheel flanges (they call cookie cutters). The older Rivarossi had these. That type of equipment can end up bouncing along the tops of the ties on code-83 track.
On the other hand our club has code 100 track. We put in a new ceiling a couple years ago. We covered the layout with plastic and actually walked on it while working (had to drill holes for lugs in the cement ceiling). None of the track was damaged. Other places where we had just covered the scenery to keep the dust out (so we didn’t walk on it) many trees and structures got destroyed.
Chip,
I went with Code 100 for ruggedness and easy availability (believe it or not my LHS doesn’t stock Code 83! so I figured if I needed a quick piece of track, I shouldn’t limit myself to the internet… so went with what he carries). Also use Atlas Custom Line turnouts.
And I’ve been very pleased with it.
But ( and there’s always a but isn’t there ), sometimes (at the out of town LHS) i look at that Code 83 stuff and think, “Man that LOOKS NICE.”