I have read the threads on modifying the atlas turnouts for below track operation. I took one apart and after much consideration decided it was just too much work (10 turnouts), not too mention the work of modifying the roadbed and foam. Is it really worth the effort (for a newbie)?
I am pretty sure that you will get all kinds of answers here as we all have gone thru what you are talking about, We’ve all fealt your pain. I’m my situation, I ended up just replacing all 31 Atlas switches with the new Peco Code 83 line of switches. No more dead spots on the frogs. No more derailments in the switch points. No more problems.
Atlas makes some of the very best engines and rolling freight cars out there, I really wish that they would put the same level of detail into their track and switches.
Does the Peco code 83 exactly replace the Atlas turnout, b/c that might be a real consideration?
No, they are slightly different. The pecos are smaller, it also depends what rail code you are using, if you are using code 83 you would use a peco 83. If you are using 100 you would use peco 100. I have about 40 atlas turnouts on my layout and the only problems I have had have been with out of guage wheels, low couplers etc. Keeping my rolling stock maintained I have no problems at all with the turnouts except a couple low frogs where the cars will “CLICK-CLACK” through, no derailments though unless I leave one thrown the wrong way. I have not modified my turnouts at all.
I felt the same way a year ago. Then, as my modelling skills improved and I started adding scenery, I realized that the Atlas turnout machines really look out of place. Unfortunately, a number of these are still prominently visible on my layout, so I’m looking at ways to hide them without tearing up the existing trackwork and ballast.
Unfortunately, I didn’t realize how much I would want to get rid of those things until it was too late, so I like to warn people when I can.
The turnouts themselves, however, are just fine. I have had few derailments that are turnout-related, and even those required only a small adjustment. If only those switch machines could just disappear…
This is from America’s #1 Atlas Turnout BASHER.
After finding out what made them TICK and NOT TICK, I am very Happy with the Code 83 MarkIII Atlas turnouts. The undertable machine from Atlas #66 WILL NOT WORK on foam with out a lot of work. It is easier using a Tortoise than any other. Believe me with 125 of them Installed I can vouch for it working. With the foam all you need is a LONGER piece of piano wire and off you go. They will NOT burn your foam like the atlas machine, they run of 12-14v DC not A/C like atlas, they control signals, powewr frogs and can be run with a simple DPDT and using a Bicolor LED that will give you a visual at the control panel or Facia.
Oh yeah the track level atlas machines look pretty bad on a sceniced layout, I had them on my first couple of layouts, but the last 2 I have been using the ones that go underneath. Everything is laid on cork on top of 1/2 plywood so I have no trouble with the more discreet atlas machines. Some people dont like the fact that they throw the turnouts quickly with a loud “SNAP” but it doesnt bother me. Sure beats paying for tortises.
all tho most do not like the atlas machines on the real rr if its a dispatcher controlled switch they look like dispatcher controlled switchs.
Yeah, but even at that, they have appeared on the cover of Model Railroader.
Well, that is one option. At the club we run them on AC broken into 1/2 wave DC with diodes so we only have to run one wire from the control panel to each tortoise. That makes it easier to use them in a diode matrix too.
Yes BUT that is an adnaced option for most folks. I am using the FIXED DC from a Tech IV for Tortoise DPDT control duty, the FIXED A/C for Atlas Puhbutton duty and a DB150 for DCC Route Control of the Tortoise AND atlas Routing turnouts.
I like the 1/2 wave idea, will get a bridge rectifier from Radio Shack and play!!
Most of my switches have manual ground throws to fit my era i model, but i have a few that are hard to access so i turn the switch motors over (bottom side up). When you scenic this side they are not very noticeable. To turn them over you must use a right hand switch motor on a left hand switch & left hand motor on a right hand switch.
Larry
I’m right there with you, Joe; I’ve found that, with a little work on the switch points and maybe a little work on the frogs and making sure they are laid and adjoined with the track, Atlas turnouts work fine. I NEVER use the cumbersome and non-prototypical machines that come with them. I use either ground throws or the Atlas under-the-table machines.
Hi everone. Let me start by saying that I have participated in internet forums before on various topics unrelated to this hobby, but this model train forum is truly outstanding. I had no idea there were so may people interested not only in the hobby, but willing to share their expertise. You all have been very helpful to this newbie.
I posted earlier about having difficulty laying my cork roadbed for my sectional atlas track. After reading your replies, I knuckled down and pulled up the first attempt. After a much more careful second attempt, I am happt to report that it is going down perfectly and the track is fitting fine. Thanks for all your suggestions.
Now to a f/u question regarding the atlas turnouts. I really just don’t like how they look, but I have read they are DCC friendly and I don’t want to replace them. I have read if you have a deep base, i.e. 3/4" plywood with 1" foam on top for me, then the atlas under the table machines are difficult to install, whereas the tortoise circuitron slow motion machines are much easier to install and functional extremely well. Is that true? If so, can you take off the switch machine for the atlas turnouts and hookup the tortoise’s? Note: I am in N scale.
Thanks
Seeing that you aren’t new to forums, you know that some people can’t pass up the next bit.
So I see the YOU are in N scale. I didn’t know they made operational computers that small. The rest of us are in 1:1 proportion, but we won’t hold your size against you.
Actually, this topic is one that I’ll be tackleing in the future as my snap switch days are half over. My old snap switchs will be used in my hidden staging area along the far side of the layout. However, the new mainline has a promanent passing siding using a pair of #6 turnouts where the subroadbed is also the “ceiling” of the dept 56/O sacle diorama below.