I have had ONE DEVIL OF A TIME installing these critters! I try to follow the instructions which come with them (making sure the switch slider and switch tracks are centered – I use duct tape to do that), and I usually end up installing them so that, after they are installed and secured with wood screws, if I move the slider on the switch machine, either the switch up above, on the table, doesn’t move when the slider does, or it moves so hard that no switch machine, no matter how powerful, can make it slide into position smoothly. And if by some chance the switch actually does “kind of” work when I move the slider, the switch tracks do not close neatly against the track like they should. (and yes, I use Atlas switches)
I’ll use Tortoises sometime (when $$$$ allows), but for now I need something quick and easy. Are there any books or tips anyone has that may help me? Maybe even an MR video presentation of some kind?
Your not alone, I gave up after wasting an evening trying to make 1 work, There are a couple of guys here that were successful, but in thelong run they admitted that the Tortoise is the way to go. In this case you get what you pay for unfortunately.
I tried installing one of those on my n-scale layout once. It made me wish I’d have built a loop of track with no turnouts! After finally getting it to work, I ended up taking it out and using a manual Caboose ground throw instead. Go figure.
I was one of those guys 7 years ago. I bought a half dozen to start my first HO scale layout and almost gave up the hobby before I really even started. Sold them on eBay and bought Tortoises instead and never looked back. I now have 54 operating Tortoises on my layout.
I like a lot of Atlas products including flex track, turnouts, diesel engines, just to name a few.
But Atlas under table switch machines? If I was President of Model Railroading, I would issue an Executive Order banning them.
Sorry to hear You have so much trouble with the Atlas switch machines .I have been using them since
they came out. About 45 years now and not one has given me any trouble.All35 of them.The hole in the center must be large enough for the throw and they must be flush with the underside of the switch.It also sounds like you have screwed down too tight. Try using plastic stick pins to test them before mounting them with screws.Good luck to You
Hi
I have been using Atlas above table motors by flipping them over and using them under the table. I built a crank to operate the turn out from below. I posted pictures and description some time ago. Do a search for Atlas under table etc.
I use the Atlas motors and slide switches but you must use a capacitor discharge circuit to protect the motors from a stuck slide switch. I have never had any trouble with them.
If you factor in the cost of some sort of Capacitive Discharge circuit, is there a real cost savings over Tortoise (even less with a relay to replace the built-in function on the Tortoise)?
The power / discharge circuit I built myself from online plans for less than $10. It powers all the switch machines two or more at a time with no problems. I’m not in to power routing the frogs. I use #4 and #6 turnouts and as long as I keep the track clean even my SW8 is happy. I also use a drop of Rail Zip on the pivot of the turnout blade and my motors snap over with authority. Thirty volts for a split second and never had a burnt out motor.
It works for me.[:-^]
PS: I bought one of the real Atlas under table machines and didn’t like it, or the extra cost.
While we are on the subject of turnout stalling. Does anyone else agree with the idea that stalling may be more a function of the turnout blade pivot getting loose and the blade not making firm contact at the other end (rail)? I have used an ohm meter on the blade which raised doubts that we always get good power flow through the blade.
Things to ponder? [%-)]
I had 4 that worked for 12 years or so on my previous layout without ever having a problem. I drilled a 1/2 inch hole in the roadbed/benchwork where the pin would be, and attached it with the pin in a center position - which of course meant the pivot piece on the turnout was in a center position. Then, I secured the control with oversize screws, and all was well.
Sounds easy, but my advantage was that I had full and easy access to the installation. In other words, you really need to install these early in the layout building process.
I’m building a new layout, and so far have not used any under the table machines. In fact, I may end up putting them all on Ebay when I am sure I won’t use them.
Oh, they can work fairly well. The two big difficulties are:
working tiny screws into the plywood in an upside down position - using double sided sticky tape to position, and then screw, helps a lot
drilling the hole big enough - 1/2 inch diameter would be good. Most of us have 3/8" drills and that isn’t really big enough for reliable operation. With a 3/8" hole you are bound to get some contact with the vertical pin, which will impact the required throw.
I’ve got about 30 of them, and they work fairly well, but I’ve usually got at least one, not quite in position, switch at all times.
What is CRC 2-26? How well does it work and where can I get some? I have a bunch of Atlas #4 code 83 turnouts and dead moving rails are spreading like the plague! They definitely lose contact at the pivots, causing dead spots. My three truck Shays are just right to put one truck on the unpowered frog and two on the moving rails = stall.
Hi, regarding your troubles with the Atlas switch motors…
Are you using the recently redesigned ones with the wire vertical-pin, or the older style that have the fat stiff plastic vertical-pin? I’ve found that the older types work OK with the Atlas switches, but the newer ones lost it in the redesign; the lever arm and wire would just rather flex and twist instead of moving the points properly. This is unfortunate because the inclusion of the contact points is a great idea! Pity!
Either way, installing any under table switch motor is less trouble if you have an assistant watching the points to tell you how the alignment is faring while putting in the mounting screws from below.
FWIW, I use the older Atlas style motors to drive my Peco switches. I saw off the Atlas plastic vertical pin and drill a tiny hole in its the lever arm and connect the Peco throw bar to the hole in the arm with a horizontal piece of piano wire. So far no trouble, and for an added bonus, all the work is above the table at track level. Place a building or hollow rock or somesuch over the magnet assembly. If you run the wire thru a piece of tubing, it can be buried in the ballast and be hidden some distance from the switch.
Besides all of the obvious downfalls of the Atlas under table switch machines As mentioned when you break down the cost of the switch machine and installing a capacitive discharge control circuit (not eveyone has the ability to build their own so we must consider that cost factored in they aren’t much cheaper if at all then a Tortoise switch machine. There is clearly no comparison between the two being the Tortoise is a far superior piece of equipment allthat aside no matte rhow you slice it Atlas switch machine snap the switch open or close not a prototypical movement at all. Where as with a Tortoise you can adjust the speed of the throw by various methods to get nice slow speed operation much more prototypical and easier on turnouts in the long run.
