Hi. Sorry if this has been answered already in this forum, I searched but could not find an answer.
I am building a tabletop layout and I am thinkin about attaching either 1" or 2" insulating foam sheets on top of the plywood. This may be an obvious question, but what is the best method for attaching the track to the styrofoam? Thanks!
[#welcome] to the CTT forum.
Here is an old posting that we just keep recirculating
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QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter
Last year, Chief Eagles stopped by when he was in Wheeling, WV at the grand opening of the Cabela’s store. He wanted to see what I was doing and how it performed. One of the advantages and disadvantages that I have is the slope of the ceiling reflects the sound out to the operator and viewers.
[quote]
QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter
Thank you Chief for those kind words. [:)][:)] I know it is hard for you to say such benevolent statements about a YANKEE from Buckeye Land. [:D]
And now on to the foam. Yes, my whole layout sits on foam. It is high-density 2" foam purchased at Home Depot, one of my favorite stores. The foam sits on joists at approximately 16" spacing. On top of the high density foam sits the 1" white foam.
Again, the Chief is correct, I do use deck screw or drywall screws to hold the track to the foam. If you really have a problem holding to the foam, I use a plastic “Molly” type connection and low heat glue and imbed it. I wished I had taken a photo of this.
The main reasons I used foam were; 1. The layout is designed to move and 2. after shelling out my hard ear
The fact that you are using plywood as a base suggests that screws are the fastener of choice. Is there a reason why you want to use 1" or 2" foam? Thinner sheets are available, and would facilitate the use of shorter screws.
I am using 1/2" foam as a roadbed, and have found an interesting type of screw at Home Depot. It is a 1 5/8" “trim head” screw. It looks like a drywall screw, but has a much smaller head. As a result, it requires a #1 square drive. I am using these with Gargraves track. By predrilling and counterboring, they are almost invisible.
You won’t be able to see it in the photo as it appears here in the forum, but there is a screw in the first tie on the foam near the center of the shot, between the top and center rails.
I suppose you could use some kind of glue if you decide to keep with the thicker foam. An acrylic or silacone caulk would work.
…and here is yet another option: First though, I don’t know how it would work on a large layout but it sure seems to work on my small one. I chose Woodland Scenics FOAM roadbed that comes in a 25 foot roll and is pre-bevelled to simulate ballast. I used 3/4 ply with a 1 inch styrofoam layer on top, then white glued the WS roadbed to the foam. It definitely is QUIET!
My track is K-Line Shadow Rail which has 18 ties per section so it grips the foam better than regular 3 ties per section track. I thought I would need screws on each track section to make sure they wouldn’t slip and slide around. But…guess what? The ties embed themselves just enough into the foam to anchor it sufficiently that after a year or so, the track HAS NOT SHIFTED even 1/32 of an inch! Again, mine is only a 3’ X 8’ plan and I don’t run long trains. Without that foam roadbed I’m sure I would have had to use screws and I probably would have used the above suggested methods.
Click the pic…
Planning to do like buckeye, just stick the screws into the foam. His has worked well.