Hi
I would like to be able to attach figures and automobiles to my layout but still be able to remove them later if I want to change the scene or redistribute them. Is there something I can use that will generally hold them in position but still allow me to remove them wihout damage to the item or the surrounding scenery?
Thanks
wdcrvr
wdcrvr,
I have used mortician’s wax for years. Apply a small amount with a toothpick to whatever you want to fix. Nice firm hold, but when it’s time to move things, releases easily and comes off cleanly without leaving any residue or damaging the finish/paint. Easy to find, too.
Learned about this from reading Hayden’s book on detailing model railroad scenery.
Joel
I don’t see why you would use any adhesive for autos, but hot clue for crafts and that seem to work for me and easy to lift if you want to
Joe C
Aileen’s Tacky Glue. Comes out of the bottle white, dries clear, never gets hard. Removing and relocating detail parts is easy. But the mortician’s wax sounds like it does the trick, too. It should be especially suited to anchoring the grave stones in the cemetary.
If the surface is fairly soft, such as foam, take a half-inch length of piano wire, heat one end, and jab it into the foot of your person. Then poke the other end into the scenery.
Steve S
Micromark scenery glue. Dries clear yet remains tacky.
Hi.
Woodland Scenics Accents Glue #198 works great for this project.
All the best.
Reinhard
Excellent! Good one![;)]
Nice thing about the wax as adhesive is that it is instant stick, no waiting to dry at all.[:D]
Joel
As a plastic modeler, I’ve used a technique many times where I drill a small hole on the bottom of a tire or a foot and then where its going to sit. I then cut a small piece of thin brass rod, maybe a 1/4 of an inch and connect the two(make sure the rod makes a tight fit in the hole). This does the trick. The brass rod comes in very small gauges and I use a pin vise for the openings. This is a nice technique for a lot of things and a lot less messy. If you want something more permanent, us some CA on both ends.
Terry
I’m in agreement with Roger with the Aleene’s Tacky Glue. I use three of the many offerings from Aleene’s. They have a clear that dries even clearer than the white and there is a Fast Grab variety that I use for the figures.
If you need to reposition figures you can rub the glue off their little feet and start over. I’ve used CA in the past but it leaves a foggy area on plastic and if you remove the figure there is a permanent scar on the pavement.
This is what works for me, your mileage may vary.
Ed
I use Aileen’s Tacky Glue, too. It’s a craft store item. If you practice good glue hygiene, wiping the tip and keeping the cap on when not in use, it has a very long shelf life. The last time I opened a container, I put the date on. That was in 2012 and it’s still fine.
But, I must ask. Where would you find Morticians’ Wax?
MisterBeasley,
Easier to find the equivalent “museum wax” on ebay and probably from a craft store or artist supply store.
Forgot to mention that I’ve regularly used a tiny bit of the wax on the tip of small screw drivers to hold mini screws to get them started. Very useful in this application[swg]!
Also, use a tiny bit on the tip of a toothpick to pick up MV lenses that I want to put in place. This task is sooo much easier than using tweezers.[:D]
Anyway, great all around stuff for the layout AND the workbench.
Joel
I have heard some people using a material called “Sticky Max” to keep loads from shifting/moving on rolling stock (flat cars, gondola’s, double stack containers, etc.) and then being able to remove it without much effort or residue. I tried finding it at Hobby Lobby, but was unsuccessful and the employees didn’t have a clue what I was talking about.
PC99,
A Google search shows a number of vendors. “Sticky Max” is a specific brand of museum wax (sub for mortician’s wax). Any brand you find will do. [:D]
Joel
thanks for the info
Speaking of holding mimi screwson a screwdriver, rub a magnet along the length of the scredriver metal shaft for about 20 strokes and it too will become a magnet, although not nearly as strong but will generally hold any metal screw.
I have found that rubber cement works well for holding paper together but has no strength at all. It also can be rubbed off. I would imagine that rubber center would hold the people and cars in place on a layout and easily be rubbed off the tires, feet, etc. I would not recommend using the rubber cement if the layout will be transported as a small bump would probably break the bond.
Micromark has a special glue for attaching figures to your layout, it comes right off if you decide to move your figures. I am sure it will work the same for autos.
I’ve been super gluing figures to straight pins for years and drilling a #68 hole with a pinvice for them to just drop in. Super easy to move around and the hole is very hard to see when there isn’t a figure in it. I do the same with vehicles, most of my vehicles have added head lights and I use .02" brass rods for contacts that plug into brass tubing. Again hard to see when not in use.
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/p/page-15.html
The link above shows how I move around my easily movable vehicles with full lighting. A non liuminated vehicle with straight pin can easily drop into a contact tube.
First I create stands using clear plastic (included with Preiser figures or recycled from almost any packaging your buy at the store). I cut them into little squares just a tiny bit larger than the firgure. I use Elmers white glue to temporary glue the figures to the stands. When they dry I can position them as desired. Soon the stands will fall off and the result will be figures which can stand on their own two feet. When I choose a final location for the figure, I use Woodland Scenic’s (white) Glue. It is as thick as paste and will hold firgures, signs, lights, poles and trees almost instantly yet can be removed with water. To avoid damage, never use model glue or super glue on your figures.