Most places that sell decoders and accessories have the small size shrink wrap. Radio Shack has some in an assortment but there’s not a lot of the real small size in the pack. I have a large coil of the small stuff I got from a vendor at a train show.
–Randy
Try a hobby shop that sells RC planes and cars. They often have have packages of assorted small sizes. That’s where I get mine.
Joe
Paul,
I purchased a similar 2-8-0 (Bachmann Spectrum) on Ebay and it had mechanical issues with one of the drivers; it was out of quarter, that is one of the drivers has slipped on its axle and thrown it out of sync with the other driver on the same axle. I had to send it to Bachmann service for repair/replacement. I wound up paying $25 and they sent me a new loco. These are great running locos and I have 3 of them, all DCC now and one is the new Sound On Board version (Love this loco!!). Just call Bachmann service and explain your problem; they will most likely do the same. They use to have a lifetime warranty on their engines.
-*Bob
Bob, I got impatient with waiting to get DC power to try it w/o the decoder, the idea to rule out electrical issues on the jumpiness / lurching. I have a diagram for that or a similar version so started taking it apart. So I wound up with the chassis which I can roll along the track and observe.
It has major binding issues at two spots per driver rotation. I can’t see interference with the siderods or valve gear so it may be the quartering issue. I see a $40 chassis assembly available from Bachmann parts and will talk to them Monday to confirm it’s for my model #. Since I don’t have a “new” product receipt, I’d be happy to pay $25 for it and keep the UP livery I want, unless alternately they would replace for a new UP for $25.
I admit this may sour me on non-commercial internet purchases, at least if not advertized as new/unused. This one I found with a web search (not on Ebay) and it was not near the condition indicated (other issues also). But with a new mechanism it should be fine and be a decent base for a DCC / sound end product.
It’s very likely is came that way though. Probably is just slightly out of quarter. You don;t need to repalce the whole chassis becaise of that, you can easily adjust that, especially if it’s just a slight amount - if it was REALLY out of quater it would stop completely and jam the valve gear, so if that is what the issue is, it’s just a slight twist of the offending axle.
The main key to a suiccessful second hand purchase is lots of pictures. If the seller onl;y shows one or two pictures and not all sides, what are they hiding? I wouldn;t buy anything with DCC installed without seeing a picture “under the hood” unless I was planning to rip out anything that may already be there anyway. Sometimes it’s a surprise - the brass RS-3 I picked up, I tried it on address 00 and it wouldn;t run, so I figured it had a bad wire or something. Took it apart - there was a decoder installed. Reset the address to 3 and it ran, but I pulled it and replaced it with a modern decoder - my fleet is 100% TCS for non-sound anyway.
–Randy
How can I tell which of 4 drivers is off quarter, by feel? Do I then put pliers on each wheel and twist? Can I do it while siderods are on? Worth trying as it’s no good.
To do it right you’d have to remove the side rods and take out each wheelset and check on a quartering jig like the one NWSL sells. However, there’s usually enough slop in the rods on a mass produced model that you should be able to do it by feel and get is close enough to run smoothly. You would still disconnect the rods, but leave parts connected. First dropt he piston rods and see if it’s that causing the bind or not. Not too likely unless the rods are bend or the holes where it slides into the pistons are full of flash or something. Then start witht he rods - not sure how they are arranged on that loco, I’m not looking at the exploded view, but if there’s one main rod attached to all 4 cranks on a side, you can completely remove one side and if the issue is quartering, it should be smooth. To figure out which one, remove the screw for the middle two drivers on both sides, see if it’s smooth. The connect the rear and second drivers, disconnecting the others, then try first and second, and finally thrid and fourth. Whichever one binds is going to be the one out of quarter.
Yes, time consuming, but so was real steam loco maintenence. If it was under warranty I would just send it back to Bachmann and they’d fix it, they seem to have excellent service. Whatever’s binding it up, it probbaly was there from new and either the original owner didn;t care enough to send it back for repair or possibly they took it apart and messed up the reassembly and so didn’t try to send it in for repair.
–Randy
Paul,
I did not have a receipt for my engine either, I bought it on Ebay as used. I would call them before doing anything else and see what they will do. As I mentioned earlier, I sent them a used PRR K-4 and got a brand new one for the $25. Worth the try.
-Bob
I twisted (uncertain whether the drivers are a simple press fit or knurled, I assumed the former) what looked like an offending driver and that reduced the binding substantially but it ran fairly erratically and sounded alot like a sewing machine.
I talked with Bachmann service today. They said to send it in, $45 for a Spectrum. They do not repair Spectrum’s but rather replace them. So in the end I’ll have learned a bit (valuable), have a new item (at a total price of a new item) to convert to DCC and possibly have to change the road name. Not a great but not a horrible experience as in the last two weeks I’ve learned how to attack a diesel (P2K gears) and a steamer (Bachmann).
Thanks again for all the input.