It is time to put a decoder in the HO Spectrum Doodlebug. How do I get the shell off? There has to be a trick that I have not yet discovered.
Also, Is there a sound decoder that is just right for this model?
If it’s one of the old, original Spectrum Doodlebugs, you’re going to be hard pressed to fit a speaker into it without milling out some of the metal frame or removing the crew members from the cab. I purchased one of these several years ago and put an NCE decoder into it that has an integral plug, but I don’t remember how I got the beastie open to install the decoder. I seem to recall that you just have to spread the bottom sides of the shell apart.
Yes, and than just use toothpicks to space out the body all around as you go until it “pops” free. I used an extra Bachmann decoder I had lying around, and it’s worked perfect ever since.
I didn’t go with sound, as mine kind of growls on it’s own.
Cheers
They are a bugger to open up, but here’s how I went about it. There are 4 tabs on each side of the underframe that engage with slots in the glazing material. Starting from the rearmost pair, which are directly above the rear wheel of the rear truck, I carefully spread the body shell with 2 thin steel rules. When the tabs were disengaged I held the sides of the body shell out with some tapered wooden skewers. I happened to have some, but I reckon toothpicks would be suitable as well. Moving to the next tab, which is above the triple valve/air reservoir, repeat the process. The next tabs are above the battery box/fuel tank - do the same again. The last tabs are halfway between the baggage compartment doors and the grab irons behind the cab. When you spread the body shell here the underframe should drop out. Once the body and frame are separated, there are a number of modifications that I made to cut down on the noise. I removed the glazing material from the sides of the body shell, then cut away and discarded the portion that is adjacent to the motor. You can replace the glazing on the baggage door with thin clear styrene or similar. The important thing is to prevent the PC board on top of the motor from touching the glazing - it transfers vibrations from the motor to the body and makes it act like a sounding board. While you’re at it, remove the piece of thick black paper that sits under the PC board. It also buzzes and vibrates. I placed a tiny dob of Blu-Tak under the PC board when reattaching it, also as an anti vibration measure.
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Phew! That post helped me a LOT a few minutes ago!!! Now, if I can only get this never run model to actually RUN…
I second the tooth pick method, because that is what I used on the equally frustrating N Scale version and it worked great.
Like others, I use toothpicks.
It is easy. Spread the sides away from the frame and hold apart with toothpciks.
Next, use a small screwdriver to pry one end away from the frame. That end of the shell can be lifted upward, and the shell comes off the frame.
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