How do you replace or repair sloppy couplers? these couplers turn with the trucks and have become very sloppy from use. I haven’t had any luck replacing them, can’t get the shell of the passenger car. any ideas?
Hello Homer,
From, my blog, wwwNewYorkCentrallayout@blogspot.com
Spectrum Passenger Cars
Passenger equipment continues to be tested and evaluated on the lower level tracks. During testing several Bachmann Spectrum passenger cars were found to have some questionable operating characteristics. These cars have been around for about 15 years and employed a swinging coupler box that attached to the truck via a metal linkage inside the car body. In theory this would allow the coupler box to pivot on turns which would allow the car to negotiate curves with a radius as tight as 18". The weakness in the system on the early releases, which came with the old style horn hook couplers, was that the coupler box would droop causing knuckle couplers to be prone to disconnecting. In order to have reliable coupling and operating characteristics I removed these swinging coupler box assemblies from the cars and body mounted good old Kadee #5s. The body mounted #5s were mostly right on target with the Kadee coupler height gauge and those that were not were easily adjusted with a small washer to two. The downside of the body mounted coupler was the cars no longer handle the 18" radius curves. The good news was that the cars can easily handle 22" radius curves. It should also be noted that later releases of these cars with Bachmann knuckle couplers had a more stable mechanism and did not routinely require the removal of the assembly for reliable operation.
To remove the roof check under the car for six tabs that need to be pressed inward while gently lifting the roof. It is easier if you work from front to back.
Hope this helps,
John
Hello Homer44
I have used 2 basic methods as illustrated in this photo. The cheap and easy method is to slide small strips of plastic underneath as shown in the top car (sleeper) . Glue the pieces of plastic to the bottom of the car, and the coupler box will pivot without being too sloppy.
The better method is to break off the coupler box, and throw it out. Then use Kadee long shank couplers mounting them at an appropriate distance. Cars should be coupled close enough to look okay without having the diaphragms rubbing together which causes derailments. The middle car (dining car) has an older style Kadee long-shank coupler.
The lower car (coach) is my most recent coupler conversion, and I used Kadee number 146 “whisker” long-shank couplers. I recommend this method. The long-shank coupler is best for passenger cars on curve track.
After breaking the cou[le pocket off of the car, I glued a thin piece of plastic to the bottom over the old hole. Then I drilled for self-tapping screws.
There is no need to remove body shells with these methods.
HOMER44:
As was pointed out by the Heartland folks, that’s exactly what I did, a small schim of plastic above the coupler, glued to the body and it holds the coupler box in place, thus the box doesn’t slip and droop any more.
The pictures here are a perfect illustration. I can tell you, I did the same thing some 13-14 years ago and it has worked ever since. It really helps keep the couplers lined up, I do not have any uncouplings that occur.
Robert Sylvester WTRR
Thank You for replying I will try the shim idea and let you know