After 35’ish years, I’ve pulled out my old HO trains that my mom carefully packed away so I can now share it with my 7 year old. Everything works good, including the power supply my dad built (most definitely not UL approved). Now we’re in the planning phases of a “real” layout and I could use some advice as some things have changed. Sorry for all the topics, but I figured this would be a good place to start.
TRACK LAYOUT
If I create the layout based on an 18” minimum radius, What is the minimum radius for the track that’s just outside of this circle, assuming the circles are concentric? Think of it as two ovals, one inside the other, the inside track has 18” radius, what’s the outside one?
If I want to place two straight parallel tracks that are about 2” apart (this is the correct spacing, right?), how do I switch to the other track without the S-curve? I understand S-curves are to be avoided unless there’s a decent straight section in the middle?
What is the recommended clearance from the top of the rails to the bottom of a crossing bridge?
COUPLERS
All my rolling stock has the horn hook couplers. Problem is when we now get a new car, the couplers are the knuckle type. And it seems those vary from brand to brand. Isn’t there a standard? I’d like to just go ahead and upgrade everything to be the same. Should I switch to Kaydee?
BENCHWORK
We’re thinking of a general arrangement as follows: Two 4x4’s connected by a 2x6 (feet). This way with the table pushed up against the wall, he should be able to reach everything. Anyone have any inspiration?
DCC
I’m intrigued by the DCC systems. I understand how they work now, but what I’m having difficulty finding is an entry level system with two controllers. Or I can find a system, but can’t seem to find additional controllers. Basically, I want to my son and I to each be able to control our own lo
Welcome to the forum. There are a lot of us back after a time out. I was gone for 25 years.
If you are working with snap track, you just use what works, but if you want something more complicated, it is time to swirch to flex track and woodland scenics foam roadbed.
You will always have s curves with turnmoutouts. The secrete is slow running there. However I thing curves are nice so I have them everywhere. Makes track laying a little more difficult, but I like the look.
Time to get a bunch of Kadee couplers and the gauge and switch them over.
Your bench work does not have to be that heavy, but if you have the lumber use it. Warning, no nails or glue in the bench work, screw everything, because you will want to change things.
Go with DCC. I waited and it cost me. I went with Digitrax radio and it is easy to add controlers as you go, Their loconet is so easy even I can work it. Warning, the IR doesn’t work when you need it the most. It is free for a reason, but too expensive. My grandkids love the UTr throttles.
Keep us posted as we love to celebrate each others progress, at least most of us do.
Welcome to the forum Jambam, [#welcome]and welcome back to the hobby, I’ll have a go at answering your first question.
The recomended spacing for tracks on a curve is 2.5" (center to center) the next step up in sectional track from 18" is 22" so, you can use flex track to get them closer but a 4" spread is wise with that tight a radius I would think.
To avoid an ‘S’ curve moving from the inside track to the out side or ‘vise-versa’ accomplish this by making the change coming into or out of a curve… like this…
As far as I know there is no recomended 'standard hieght from railtop to bottom of crossing bridge… however it is ‘recomended’ that you make it high enough for your tallest rolling stock to pass beneath [;)], I would then add 3/8" to 1/2" to please your eye.
[#welcome] DCC is the way to go & the sooner the better!! I use the MRC Prodigy advance unit & have added a second throttle for the grandkids to use - main unit about $200 or less - added throttle about $80. Kaydees are the way to go - some of todays RTR have “KD compatible” - use them untill they break & replace with KD’s. I understand you mean 4’ x 4’ + 2’ x 6’ - is that right? Good luck & welcome back![8D]
Thanks for all the quick replies. Yes, I meant 4’x4’ + 2’x6’. If I could figure out how to post an attachment of our plan I’d do so.
I never intended to use snap track. Flex track all the way.
So it seems 20.5" is the minimum radius around a concentric 18" curve (2.5" clearance). Right? That seems tight to me.
For the bridge clearance, I’m just trying to see what I can do to keep the grade no steeper than 3%.
I was looking at the MRC Prodigy, but couldn’t find where I can get the throttle alone. My LHS couldn’t offer much help (strange?).
And when I was into this long ago, I avoided anything RTR and will still continue to do so. I’m a purist and prefer to build the Athern kits (or equivalent). I’m trying to teach my boy how to BUILD this stuff rather than just pull it out of a box.
Hi. Well, curves tighter than 24" are considered tight curves in the hobby, and they have limits to operational flexibility and to visual appeal, but this pertains mostly to bigger steam and longer rolling stock, say 70’ and longer. But, you have it figured correctly; add 2.5" for safe clearances between inner rolling stock and the stuff going by on the outer curve. The tighter the curve, probably the more clearance and actual testing you should do so that you don’t have to do the forehead smacks.
It is too bad you have already turned your nose up at RTR stuff as much of it is top notch. I would argue, not to be contrary with you on our first exchange, but just to be perfectly honest, that Athearn kits are not the “purists” ideal any longer. According to much of the posting traffic here, the true purist builds everything from scratch…something most of us get the heebie-jeebies just contemplating. Even brass, once the standard for excellence, is quickly losing ground to $270
Funny, that is exactly how I got back into it 5 years ago! My folks visited and produced my old trains and me and my boy were hooked!
You have answers to these bits already.
I would go Kaydee all the way. They are the strongest and best performing of the couplers. McHenry also make some with proper springs rather than the plastic filament and these work well for some special applicati
