I need to put two decoders in on the sooner side. But I have several locos that need to have this done and I’m wondering how to choose decoders. Each locomotive it sems has a different need.
I’m getting a Proto 2000 ALCO S1 switcher on Monday and I have a link to a cool photo essay showing how to insulate the frame on this model. I just need the basics on thie one.
a TCS MC2, and either solder the wires or use their MC2-S1 harness to plug it in. This requires changing the light bulbs.
I understand that the Bachman 4-8-4 is a bear to work on. I have a link to a site that walks you through the steps to get it done. I figure that I need sound on this one. It seems to be a great running train–several of the club memebers commented on it. They said it rides well and holds the track. It is my daughter’s train and for that reason needs sound. It makes sense that different locomotives make different sounds, so do chips come fore each individual loco? Or is prudent to get a generic steam engine decoder. Sountraxx Southern Pacific #4449
My daughter is getting a 4-4-0 that already has DCC. The problem is that both my 2-8-0 and 2-6-0 will have sound when we move the home track to DCC. So I have upgrade this locomotive to sound. Knowing this, can I pull this decoder and use it in the switcher?
The Hogwart’s special makes me more nervous that the 4-8-4. My son crashed the loco on the first day and bent the little bar goody that runs between the drive wheels. I got it back in place, but is very fragile. I undertand the drive wheels have to come off for this one.
I’d put a DSD100LC ($77) in the tender and run 4 wires (2 feet of Wire2951 would do it) between the tender and the loco - leave the light on all the time. I think a SP-16x35-08 will fit nicely below the coal load. About $85.
If you are referring to my pictures - there’s a far easier way. I only used the DH163L0 because I had an extra one. If I had another I’d use a TCS MC2, and either solder the wires or use their MC2-S1 harness to plug it in. This requires changing the light bulbs. They have picture on their site: [urlhttp://www.tcsdcc.com/decoderpics/life_like_s1_switcher_mc2_decoder.htm[.url]
Do the orange wire thing liek I did, and then do it this way. No need to file the frame like I did, this decoder is small enough to fit perfectly.
I’m sure Randy’s advice for the alternative decoder and link will suit you well. You can also fire off a question to LL to get their recommendaton for a decoder for the S1. Let me know what you decide to go with.
I’ve got lots more, too. But I seem to never get around to updating my web site with them. Hmm, sit around uploading photos to my web site, or go work on the layout… HMMMMM…
Chip, how are things going ? Which DCC did you end up going with ? Also FYI I took apart all Thomas engines today to add some weight. Got some weights in the two passenger cars and they quit derailing. In all 3 Thomas engines there isn’t a place I can put weight. I will get on bachmann and see what they have. The only thing I can think of is a fishing weight, shaped like a bell, that might fit Thomas. James has maybe 1/3 of an inch by 1/3 of an inch inside of his cab. They run a lot better with the weight taped to the roof, so now I just have to hide it. They actually pull their cars, and run quiet. WOW a little weight, who would have thought ? Also there is no room for any decorder in these. Good luck with hogwarts, hopefully they didn’t fill that engine completely like the Thomas ones.