OK. My name is Ray and I’ve been planning my “first” model railroad. What I presently have is a “playtoy” (pictures here: http://home.comcast.net/~ccmhet4/trains.html) that was started by my grandfather back in 1950 for my father (both have unfortunately passed on).
What I have is a space 11’ x 13’. What I want is point to point with continuous running capabilities (asking alot, I know, I’m on my 20th redesign!).
I actually came up with another decent idea the other night (with some help). The issue is getting across the doorway leading into the room. I’ve heard of swing bridges, lift bridges, sliding shelves and just making the thing high enough that one can “crawl” or duck under the permenatly attached piece.
What is the recomendation for a 4’ long by 1’ wide lift bridge?
How is it hinged?
What about track power?
If I get the chance, I will post on my webpage the present design, it might help with what I’m looking to do this Fall. I’ve been putting off building a new layout and at this point, glad I did but the old pike is getting to be a bear to keep running!
Point to point with continuous running is kind of a contradiction in terms. It sounds like you want an around-the-wall layout, which is actually a sort of loop but in many ways is the best of both worlds–you get the space-saving advantages of a wall/shelf layout with the potential for continuous running for model railfanning.
There are many ways to hinge a swing bridge or lift bridge: you can wire them to drop up, drop down, swing out sideways or lift out vertically, depending on your level of expertise. There are a LOT of ways to do it. The “duckunder” is a common choice, but can literally be a pain in the neck–either from continually ducking underneath or bashign one’s head when you don’t duck quite far enough.
Wiring normally involves a separate power feed that runs to the track on the bridge. Highly, HIGHLY recommended is some kind of switch that cuts power to the track for a foot or two on either side of the bridge when it is open, to prevent pitching trains off of a cliff.
Your right!
The point to point will actually be done on a penisula off one wall. It will be 4’ wide with a backdrop down the center giving a 2’ wide by 6’ long yard to either side. I would like to have a 4 track main that runs the wall. The yards will connect to that.
A sketch of the proposed idea has been pated to my website here: http://home.comcast.net/~ccmhet4/trains.html
under the new layout ideas link and it is marked as version 6 032506. The plans on this page are not to scale. They were made by using Microsoft Visio 2000.
First - At this point you might look into getting some track planning software. There are a few for free such as Atlas RTS (Right Track Software) @ http://www.atlasrr.com/ and XtrkCad @ http://www.sillub.com/ (be sure to read about the free registration part). This will help you to determine if the design you are attempting will fit in the space you have.
Second - to your original question, member tomikawaTT in another thread wrote this
I’m still a pencile and paper guy when it come to trackplaning. I use Visio only a a visual starting point. I have an HO track templete that I use for the actual track plan. I just don’t like the idea of killing trees if I don’t have to and Visio gives me a quick referance. I wish I had some way of scanning the original ideas into the computer. My scanner only does 8 1/2" by 11" paper and since the layout room (going 1"=1’) is 13 1/2" by 11 1/2", I can’t seem to scan it right!
Well, I pencile and papered the layout idea Sunday night. It looks real promising. Then I talked with one of my friends and coworkers that is going to be helping on the project. He noticed something right of the bat that I missed: a run around track for the yard. See, I helped him with an N Gauge layout (his first).
So, Monday evening I thought about the plan I drew and one more thing hit me: I’ve got the penisula on the wrong wall! I should have brought it off on th 11 1/2’ side instead of the 13 1/2’ side. If I trun the plan 90 degrees, I will acually have a 3 1/2’ walk way in the middle of the room.
Hi Ray,
My suggestion re: access/doorway is :- why complicate it with aligning hinges etc.? just make it a lift-out section which is a couple of inches wider than your doorway.Register can be mechanical via turned brass/steel dowel -pins which locate in tubing.The tubing could be glued into base framework using a two-part epoxy resin glue (24 hr variety-not the 5 minute stuff )for consistent reliability…no pain in the neck or bashed heads ![:)]
PLse post your design when you can…a lot of us over here only have a similar size area to work with and it would be good to compair ideas.
Good luck and don’t think about it for too long.
Pete
Hey BNN, 4 track mainline is heavy duty. If this really is your first model RR, then you have probably never laid track. grin. I have same problem for track leading to staging yard - So I am curious. My span is 3 ft and my layout height is 4’ so I was going to do drop down bridge with hinges. Your span is 4’, probably better off with a lift out style bridge because the span may be too big to hinge (will hit ceiling or floor). Just a thought.
Layout hieght will be 40". I’m actually going to scale back the “bridge” to 30". I’m going drop down instead of lift up. I have laid track. This will be my first “full scale” layout. The first one I built was in Ngauge. It actually fit on the frame of an old single bed. I called it the Test Bed Layout! I used AMI Instant Roadbed (first and last time for that!) and then spiked the track down.
The one I currently have has been modified a few times. One draw back that it has is that the track is laid right on the plywood. Very quick, but VERY noisy!
There is a reason for the 4 track main. Call me nuts. It’s alright! The reason for it is the pike I have now, I can go into the room, turn on the lights, turn on the pike, set the 5 powerpacks (4 passenger/frieght trains and one trolley) and sit back and watch! I can also switch the trains around if I have the gumption. Thats the reason for the 4 track main. I plan on having 2 passenger trains (1 North, 1 South) and 2 frieght trains (1 North, 1 South). Same deal. If I just want to railfan, I can. If I want to switch, I can.
At this point, I’m also staying DC. The big reason is the fact I have ALOT of older locomotives. Some that will never be converted. Still others that I just don’t think are worth converting. If I went DCC right of the bat, I’d have 1 train (no fun). I might decide to go DCC down the road (that 5 digit one that Model Rialroader put up this month looks cool!!!..LOL!!!)
I like that bnn. You know what you want. Yeah, that’s sounds great for railfanning. I’m a bit worried that I only have a one track mainline because I also like to just ‘run the trains’ sometimes. But my prototype is a one track mainline and I think it will present some interesting traffic problems for me to solve (just like the real prototype). GL with it!
In realality, the railroad I’m modeling is freelance BUT somewhat follows the old Ma&Pa. The old right of way is about 200 yards down hill from my house! It was a single track main. It’s now used as high tension for BGE. At any rate, I just have to see what turns out after I start building this monster!
Sorry I haven’t been on in a while. I’ve had family issues. Any who, I hope to get some plans up soon.
Tom Bryant, I’ve tried XTrkCad and for some reason (I really need to read the directions…LOL!), when I do the 11.5ft x13.5ft layout, I can’t zoom in on the lower edges. Need time to play with it!