For a couple of months now, one of my passenger cars has been jumping the tracks. I’ve tried everything I could think of to fix the problem including changing out the wheels and replacing the section of track where the car kept jumping off at, but nothing worked. Then last night, after all else had failed, I decided to change out the coupler to see if that might help and wa la!, that’s what the problem was all along… The flaw must be microscopic because after comparing it to one I know is in good condition, I couldn’t see anything wrong with it, but tossed it in the trash so I wouldn’t ever mistakenly use it ever again.
Congratulations!. I would have suggested that you find how much side-to-side arc the coupler was allowed by the bolsters or the steps. In my case, the insides of the steps restricted the coupler too much, so I did the nasty thing and carved away some of the plastic. No more problems.
Hey selector. The car in question is a ConCor, and the truck had plenty of room to move around, so I ruled that out right off the bat. One thing I did remove was the stupid little plastic pin that’s part of the bottom of the car that they mold in to prevent the truck from spinning around. I’ve had problems with those on other cars, and have removed all of those as well. In the end, I felt like a total idiot for not realizing it was the coupler all that time. Oh well. Live and learn…
Me too waltersrails, me too. Never mind all of the other problems in my life and the rest of the world, but when couplers don’t act right, that’s a serious matter… ([:p])
It would derail in the same spot every time on an area of straight track. Like I said, I replaced the track, but even so it continued to derail. Changing the coupler out solved the problem, and now it runs just fine.
I have experienced many unwarranted similar derailments until I converted all the couplers of my engines and most of my rolling stock to MT couplers. Bad couplers leading to derailments causes lots of frustration and believe that rapido couplers have long outlived its use.
Cliff http://cliffordconceicao3310.fotopic.net/c328807.html
what i’ve done to my SP Sunset passenger train is to put a long kadee coupler on one end of the trailing car coupled to a short #5 coupler on the lead passenger car and it usually does the trick…a tight radius curve is the culprit…a passenger car truck is longer than a freight car truck and has a hard time making a sharp curve if the body of the car can’t swing out wide enough …the body of the car doesn’t swing out wide enough if the couplers are too short …the longer coupler alliviates this problem because it allows for the car to swing out wider so the longer truck can stay on the rails instead of it being forced off the track when short couplers are used and the passenger car body can’t swing out wide enough to make the curve…chuck
Hello cwclark (Chuck). Hope all is well in Crosby…
I learned all that you’ve said the hard way… Also, I’ve got a friend that bought one of the ConCor SP Daylight Special locos and matching passenger cars last year for a total of $350.00 that wouldn’t run on his layout because his curve radius was too shallow. He asked me if there was anything that could be done to solve the problem and I told him he’d have to build a new layout because the one he had wasn’t wide enough. Of course he hit the ceiling and said to ---- with it!, and ended up selling it all on ebay… To bad. It was a nice looking little train. Oh well. Live and learn.
I’m going to invest in one of those myself loathar. I only have problems once in a great while. It would sure help solve things rather than by trial and error like I’ve been doing…
Thanks a million for the suggestion.