Bad Solder Joints on Westsdie Brass Yellowstone

I recently purchased an unpainted used Westside DM&IR Yellowstone, 1980’s era production, and noticed that the mid-loco steam cylinders are falling off – broken solder joint. Closer inspection revealed several other joints failing elsewhere on the model, and the solder everywhere on the model is well corroded. The old solder will not re-flow using a soldering gun, nor will new solder attached to it. I don’t own a resistance soldering unit, so don’t know if more power is the answer. Any suggestions on how to re-attached or otherwise deal with the old solder?
-Milt

Using a little care, one can carefully remove the falling off parts, Clean them with a file and reattatch them using CA cement. I have had to cunduct a number of repairs on brass locomotives and rolling stock, and this has always done the trick. Never had to do it on the scale you allude to, but in theory should still work.

James

Early Korean brass had poor soldering -. Westside was one of the last Importers still using: Japanese (Katsumi). (Are you sure you have a ‘Westside’ product?) - No matter.

SOLUTION: You will need to have ALL the appropriate parts resoldered with a a ‘Resistance Soldering’ unit ($300) and ‘bite the bullet’ . Resoldering the parts with a resistance unit. You may want to find somone who already has one, and will do it for you for less than the cost of buying one for yourself.

Count yourself as being lucky that the unit has not been painted. Are you sure this is a Westside piece? Many ‘Yellowstones’ were made by Akane, but they didn’t have poor soldering - Just balky drives.

Since two of you asked, yes, it is Westside (couldn’t spell it the first time). I have another Westside Yellowstone, mine since new, and the soldering looks fine. My guess is corrosion was due to inappropriate storage.

Hmmm, where’d that extra $300 go now that I need it…?!?
Milt

Just some thoughts about the Resistance soldering unit. They are great and work well on many applications, but they have certain limitations…
I have a resistance soldering unit but it has certain limitations. If you are attaching a small part to a much larger part, you need to use a flame torch instead of the resistance soldering unit. A mini flame torch can heat both quickly and melt the solder so the part is done right. Using the Resistance unit, if you turn up the amperes to a large amount to heat the larger part, it can cause damage to the small piece.

I would have the engine fixed by one of the shops that can be trusted and get a price up front for the work.

I do not know what area you are in, but most of the large brass shops can fix it for you t a resonable cost. Good Luck with it.