I came across a video where a vacuum was used to remove excess ballast from the ties before gluing it. You can see it here at about the 18:52 mark.
https://youtu.be/v6G7D5k0kpc?t=1129
Has anyone tried this? I have been working on ballast for the past week and this is the part that I am having problems with as I can’t seem to master tapping on the rails with a brush handle or spoon to get the ties clear.
Rick
I just used a brush, and “swept off” the ballast.
What I don’t get, with the vacuum, and the ballast not glued down, one would think that it would suck it all up. [%-)]
Mike.
+1 [Y]
I go for the simple approach.
Pin the track down and dry ballast.
I have never glued the ballast down.
David
I am using Woodland Scenics fine ballast and the brush method just doesn’t get it all off.
Rick
David, to my best recollection, you are only the second forum member to report not gluing down the ballast. How does this work for you? Any maintenance problems?
Rich
I would be very interested in hearing your results on this method too.
To be honest, it never occured to me to not glue the ballast down was a workable option.
I always thought the ballast police would come after me if it wasn’t glued.
charles
When ballasting, I use a chunk of cork roadbed which happens to be about HO width. I use it as a sort of bulldozer to push the ballast down to the level of the tops of the ties, and scrape away ballast from the inner edge of the rail where the spike heads (or for Atlas track, the shoe boxes) are. I then do the same for the outer sides of the rail. Then I apply the Scenic Cement (or diluted matte medium, or a distilled water/white glue/isopropyl alcohol/india ink mix) in a pipette or drop applicator. I do NOT touch the ballast then even if I see something wrong until it hardens. Then I go over it again with that cork bulldozer and generally try to recapture and reuse any ballast that is bulldozed up (it may need to go thru a sieve). Sometimes ballast needs to be reapplied here and there; sometimes the liquid cement application causes a bit of a crater or bulge that needs to be addressed. After yet one more run with the cork bulldozer, and again trying to capture and save any ballast that is brushed up, only then do I vacuum. Sometimes I need to do a bit more to get rid of the stray grains of ballast that stick to the sides of rails or the tops of ties. If there is quite a bit of that, one more vacuuming might be needed.
Ideally when I ballast I like to have enough materials, and enough time, to do several feet of track at a time.
I know David Barrow was experimenting with loose grains of ballast years ago – not really fully ballasting the track, a very thin application of grains. Of course that was also when he was experimenting with not even tacking down his flex track, and his structures were reresentation and made of white foam-core. He was a minimalist for a time and his goal was to be able to change his layout regularly. It was a phase that he grew out of I believe but he gave it a fair trial.
Dave Nelson
Back years ago when I was using Code 100 track, I found ballasting difficult, partially because the tie depth was so large. Someone suggested running an old electric razor down the rails to vibrate the track gently and settle the ballast. As I recall, it worked pretty well.
Rich and Charles.
On all my layouts I have made over the years I have never glued down the ballast.
I know it goes against ‘the rules’ and have been ‘reprimanded’ by some members of a Forum I am on here in the U.K… Not that I am worried.
Most of my locomotives are 40-50 years old and still run well. In fact my eldest grandson is here ad has been running my oldest locomotive I have and it ran perfectly.
When we move house or I want to alter the track layout a simple clearing of the ballast, unpin the track and that is it.
The only challenge I have had is relaying old track thinking it is okay. That has nothing to do with loose ballast, but I renewed it quickly.
Gluing down the ballast is definitely not my way.
David
I use a paper cup to dump the ballast onto the track and the shoulders of the cork roadbed, then use a soft 1" brush, held almost parallel with the track, to drag the excess along, towards the track that has not yet had ballast applied - do not use the brush in a sweeping motion, as it will simply spray the loose ballast all over the place.
To remove the particles of ballast left on the top of the ties, the key to using the brush handle is to grasp the ferrule very lightly, with the brush as close as possible to level, then use your forefinger and middle finger alternately to rapidly and lightly tap the brush handle as you move it along the track. This will cause the excess ballast on the tie-tops to bounce into the spaces between the ties.
This method works well with both real rock ballast and the lighter ballast from Woodland Scenics.
I was skeptical the first time I tried it, but it works like a charm.
Wayne
That is because you are using a brissle brush, try using a foam one a bit wider than the space between the rails. I use WS ballast too. I also use a valculm to strainten up the sholder after shapeing to pick up any stray bits by inserting a peice of syrene tubing into it (the natural bend of the valcum neck will keep the styrene in place but you need to use one about 12" long), the hole should be about twice the size of your ballast.
I keep wondering if a model version of a ballast broom would work if the bristles are set maybe .20 above the tie. Enough to catch any on the tie but clear that which is in between.
shane
Soon after I joined here in January 2005, I saw a post where tapping the rails with the applicator brush handle worked well. I have used that technique to pretty decent effect. I’d give it an A-.
I use a long bristled camel hair brush to groom ballast, but I do glue it. I don’t want it migrating anywhere due to vibrations of passing rolling stock, or to inadvertently knock it askew, even with derailing items. So, I glue.
Pour a healthy bead midships, between the rails, maybe a foot long. Then, commence with long strokes, not letting the bristles bend too much, or gather too much material. Maybe twenty strokes later, first between the rails and then over the rails to get the grains out to the tie ends, the rest is just wetting and glueing.
A fan brush works well for me. Seams to be good for decent control because of it being so thin.
SHane
You have to resist the urge of putting too much down. I use a plastic spoon and kinda let the bumping ties as I tilt the spoon. Then it’s a quick thumb rub. On the sides I let the ballast run off the side of the spoon. Lighten up on the volume of ballast is the key. You can always add more if needed.
Pete
In regards to ballast… I use code 100 Model Power brass flex track on cork roadbed with Atlas turnouts. Both nailed to plywood. All track joints soldered. DC operation, blocks cut with Dremel tool. Ballast is kitty litter. Nothing is glued down. This has remained for 30 years with no issues. Change to track work is easily done. There are many variations of kitty litter…find one acceptable to your eye and buy several big jugs. You’re good to go for years. Enjoy!
+1 [Y] [Y] [Y]
Regards, Ed
Just a thought.
Who was it that came up with the idea that gluing down ballast was the way to go?
I see many modelers holding back on ballasting for fear of getting glue everwhere and making a mess.
As I mentioned earlier, I ballast the track dry and leave it. No glue, wash-up liquid whatever. Simple really.
Just a thought - Who said glue the ballast down? Why?
David
Now scale has something to do with it and type of ballast. Now I am in HO and I glue the ballast down with a matt medium mix but even as I groom it for gluing I have many times moved the ballast out of position and if you don’t fix it and one grain gets into a switch, bad news.