Going to use the Walthers Bascule bridge as the entrance into the layout room. Question is in 2 parts;
I haven’t used it personally, but I saw it on display at a hobby shop and it looked quite nice and seemed to work great. As for cutting away the base after being installed, I think I’ll leave that to the more experienced. Just thinking about it, with no consistent base between them, it is possible that the wood on either one side or the other, or both, may shift slightly causing alignment problems, but I don’t know if it would amount to much or not.
How about building it into a base unit like in the MR mag recently Page 52 August 05.
Ken.
It is a beautiful model and goes together well. Be careful how you line up the mechanism with the driveshaft that raises and lowers the bridge. I had some trouble with the shaft/gears and getting the bridge to work properly. It is a little short to span a walkway so be careful. All in all, it is a nice addition and an impressive model.
Thank you, the “walkway” is norrow since it is 52" above the floor. THank you for the lead in the MR will look it up.
Thanks for the time and input.
The Walthers Bascule Bridge spans 21 1/2". The bridge does not open a full 90 degrees and therefore the clear opening is much less. I beleive this is not enough for a “walk-thru”. I feel that one accidental “bump” would do major damage. The MR article would be a good starting place. Your application is not portable and would not need the lower walk over platfrom. Good supports on both sides are a must.
Thank you, with this information I may move the bridge to the Harbor area and build a Via-duck (I know viaduct) but you will have to duck![:D]
I will be installing a Bascule Bridge. My plans call for a total of five bridges across a river. I am presently finishing work on the Walther’s Swing Bridge. A good idea with large bridges is to glue 3’ sections of track to the bridge leaving it over-hang evenly on both sides, Then install the bridge and secure the over–hang track securely with nails or glue. Now you can line up and install the approach tracks. Finally cut the rails with a Dremel or other means. This should insure proper alignment. Keep me posted on your progress on the Bascule; I will be working on it next.
Good luck Doc
Thank you, would not have thought of that.
I believe RMC had an article on bashing two of these things into a two track model. Now if I can just find someone that has a couple of these for sale!
love to find that issue! I wanted double track over the Duck but wanted it to raise clear so i could sneak stuff under it. My wife says that the mock up for the low point is to high (54") she said I should put it down to under 48" since I can not stand for a long time. Makes ense but I ahve not listend in 30 years so I mat not now LOL.
I was thinking of using two bascule kits on a entrance to the layout, each opening in opposite directions of course. When in the lowered position do they need to rest on a pier or will the mechanisim be strong enough to hold a train driving over them??
My bust. The articles (two parter) were in Mainline Modeler. Here’s the result I got from the magazine index.
Modeling a Bascule Bridge, part 1
Mainline Modeler, November 2002 page 66
Converting the Walthers Bascule to Double Track
( BASCULE, BRIDGE, “SILVAS, TIM”, WALTHERS, MM )
Modeling A Bascule Bridge, Twin Track - Part 2 - Conclusion
Mainline Modeler, December 2002 page 66
( BASCULE, BRIDGE, KITBASH, “SILVAS, TIM”, WALTHERS, CONSTRUCTION, MM )
I haven’t been able to get my hands on the articles - I’m still trying to get the bridges!
Thank you dave, as far as Javern, I would not trust it, some loco’s are 2 or 3 # and more.
30 years ago I had a similar challenge with a bascule bridge kit made from wood. I mounted it on a lift out section to enter the room and had little trouble with alignment of the section ends, which could be more secure than the bridge itself, which could tend to wobble laterally. The added benfit of the lift-out was that it allowed a wider opening into the room, essential because it was also a teenager’s (my) bedroom.
Problem Solved, Using a CUT down CHAIR and making it a sit and roll under instead of duck, (2 of my friends are 83 and 84 so ducking is not and option. I am padding the area under the entrance which is now built out of 2x6 instead of 1x2. The bridge will work but just as scenery. The 2 I have now seen in operation are nice but the odds of a good track alignment are very slim on a regular bases.
Thank you everyone for your input. I would have built it then found out what you all have pointed out.
Another win for the forum.