When you guys start your layouts, assuming you’re using a 4x8 sheet of half inch, what are the first three things you do?
I thought I read somewhere that spray painting the tracks themselves is ok, is this true? (Hard to believe) Also, are you guys putting sheets of foam on the plywood and laying down everything else on it?
Finally, what’s the best technique in your minds for building mountainous tunnels? (Oxymoron there) Is it the strips of cardboard with wraps on it or layers of styrofoam that’s cut down to form?
A 4x8 is often not the best choice, so the first thing is to have a plan.
If you want a railroad that gives you some kind of operational purpose you need to read John Armstrong’s “Track Planing for Realistic Operation”.
As far as building a 4x8 first layout, Model Railroader Magazine has a step-by-step how to at least once a year. I think that there may be some examples on the web, too, but none come to mind right now.
So that’s three anwers to the first question.
The track is often painted for weathering, and then the top cleaned, easiest before the paint is dry (from what I’ve read) but doable after.
Some use only foam, some use foam and plywood, some use only plywood.
There are a gazillion ways to make mountains. Some use both of the techniques you mentioned, and have excellent results.
I to have a 4X8 and I looked for years to find one plan that had more than a engine chasing its tail. I used the cookie cutter method and L beams. Currently I am building the scenery using both plaster casting and styrafoam. I purchased the VCR series by Dave Frary “The Trackside Modeler” and follow his examples.
I think you will have more pleasing results in rusting your rails if you do it with a brush. That way, the bristles will also swipe the closest parts of the ties, inside and out of the rails, and will look more realistic. Afterwards, once the paint is dry, simply run a piece of wood or a plastic pot scrubber over the tops of the rails to remove the unwanted paint. You might have to scrub a bit, but not over much.
The Atlas site posts free examples of layouts.
Tunnels-
A very easy way, although not the cheapest, is to lay cut pieces of styrofoam (extruded, not expanded) alongside the tracks where you want the tunnel to go. So, on one edge, the edge matches the track’s linear profile. On curves, if you must place the tunnel there (many say to avoid that if you can) keep the foam edge a bit further away from the rails. Otherwise, about 1" from the tie ends is just fine. The other edge, outside the tunnel, should be in the general profile, or coarse contour, of your mountain. Each stacked layer should be carved to generate a slope when it is placed. You want a minimum clearance above the rail-tops of 3.5" throughout the tunnel. When you meet that clearance with the stacked railside pieces, you can then stack full carved sheets atop the tunnel to close off the roof. You can, if you are inclined, carve a piece of the extruded foam to look like either a wooden, a concrete, or a stone portal. They’re surpisingly expensive if you purchase them.
Rizz, Jeff is right. That 4 by 8 takes up a lot of room. With a small 2 foot aisle all around, you need 12 by 8, and that’s still a tight aisle. Going with 2 foot shelves around the walls in a 12 by 8 room, for example, will leave you a comfortable walk around area, room for a small penninsula, and a mainline that looks a lot longer. Take your time planning something you really like, and good luck.
a fom sheet is the best way to go that is wut i am going to use main get the movie my first model rail road by worlds greates hoby IT IS THE BESTES TING TO DO THAT IS WAT I DID AND MINE LOOKES GREAT dont just use a 4*8 use a corner model shabed like an L good luke main
Check out the three threads that titles start “FORUM CLINIC” over in the general discussion forum, use the search function to find them, there will be more than enough info in those 3 threads alone to get you started.
Rizz, I am going to be using 4x8 sheets of plywood also, but because I need to protect against humidity in the summer in the basement, and excessive dryness in the winter, I am using a sealer on all sides of the plywood first. If plywood absorbs moisture, it will swell, like all wood will, some more than others some less. Then I will be using 2" foam glues to the top of the plywood. This allows me a great latitude to design brooks and streams, gullies, etc. Of course mountains and tunnels will be done pretty much like the other guys have stated above. I am going to use 4x8 sheets of plywood in a room that is 10 1/2’ X 18’. I do not like 24" or 30" shelves because I feel they do not allow for larger radii very well, and you certainly don’t have enough room to really do a layout justice. I don’t like seeing these long straight run on narrow tables. I want as full a landscape as I can get . People have told me that I will have trouble reaching across the 4’ to correct problems, etc. So what I plan to do is have my tables on furniture wheels. They also serve as leveling devices for the tables. If I need to get to the rear of the layout, I will roll the table away from the wall, and walk down a 2’ spaceway. Now some will also say that 2’ is too small. Well, I am 5-10", weigh 185lbs, and have had no problems at all working in an isle of 2’. If it ever becomes a problem…well doggone it I am getting too fat … ohh excuse me, we have to be socially correct these days, " circumferentially challenged"!!!
Good luck with your layout Rizz…and remember…it is YOUR railroad, you can do what you want, your the CEO and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer too.