I have a collection of O-Gauge 3-rail engines that have been mostly used for display over the years. Some of these are 3rd Rail that require HUGE turns to operate, so space has always been a problem. We are moving/downsizing and suddenly I will have relatively unlimited space to set up the layout of my dreams. So, I come to you with basic rookie questions:
Plywood thickness has been addressed many times. One guy said that he uses 3/4 in. because he couldn’t find 1.0 in. I’m 75 years old and don’t feature pushing these big hunks of wood around. How about 1/2 in. braced?
What do I treat the plywood with?
I have a supply (not nearly enough) of Gargraves track. If I continue at least one line with Gargraves, what do I use for a roadbed?
Any suggestions for track besides Gargraves? I plan to have 3 or 4 lines.
1/2" will work just don’t go below that as it may warp depending where you are at and the dampness/humidity subject to your train area.
There all sorts of track out there but using Gargaves and ross switches is probably the cheapest. ( Other than going back to old O-27/O gauge track. ) There was a article a few months back in CTT where this guy was using some type of insulation on a roll which appeared to look and work fine.
Some don’t treat the plywood they just put what there going to use for ground. You could just paint it if you want to seal it.
1/2" ply or 7/16" (OSB) is fine braced 24" on center and it may not be dance floor strong but very adequate for layout use. I like to paint the decking a grass green to provide a undercoat so later flocking does not need as heavy. A mud or dirt brown works too.
Keep the table height in mind the compromise for access under and working over on top.
Bracing is another consideration. 2x4s are super strong but overkill. 5/8 or 3/4 CDX cut into 6" wide “boards” are very strong. Use screws and glue and you will have a table that is strong enough and fairly light weight. Kreg pocket jigs and screws are a little pricy but great to work with
Here is a description of my layout’s structure that I have posted before:
First, it is an around-the-room layout. This geometry gives you the longest run for the space you use; but it may seem impractical for a layout that you anticipate moving (as I do). But the trick is to put all the complicated stuff in the corners, then connect them with sections having only straight track. When you move, it is relatively easy to change the lengths of the sides to fit a new room. But the structure works with freestanding layouts too.
The layout is ordinary 15/32-inch (“half inch”) CDX plywood, stiffened with perforated steel angles and supported by PVC pipe legs. Each leg is 1 1/2-inch schedule-40 pipe with a 1/2-inch bolt through it near the top. The bolt length is the same as the outside diameter (2 inches) and is held in place by two nuts inside the pipe. The bolt goes through the eye of a 1/4-20 screw-eye, which protrudes from the top of the leg, through a hole in the plywood, and is snugged to it with a washer and nut on top. This makes a very strong and rigid joint.
The steel is 1 1/2 x 1 1/2, with perforations on 3/4-inch centers, or 2 1/4 x 1 1/2 for longer spans, fastened to the plywood with 1/4-20 x 1-inch carriage bolts. I just pop the angles and the legs in wherever needed. The steel generally doesn’t touch the legs. I put legs right at the joints between sections, with a short piece of angle centered over each leg to join them together and to prevent any discontinuity in slope across the joint. This also makes assembly and disassembly easier than when the legs are offset from the joints.
My layout is fairly high at 45 inches, because I have cabinets, desk, workbench, bookcases, etc. underneath. The legs that I use are limber at that height, so I have tied the layout to the walls at a few points. However, stiffness decreases rapid
I built my layout the light weight way with foam. After 15 years in use, no problems. The 1" x 2" joists are on 16" centers. This is a classic L girder construciton.
Not to say what I did is better or worse,just what I did.
My table is 1/2" CDX with 2x4 cross ties every 24" and 2x4 legs screwed in where ever they needed to be to make it level. That makes up for the floor not being level in the basement.
I used 1/4" Fanfold insulation over the top to kill sound (at any home supply store) and covered it with Ready Grass from Woodland Scenics, and install trim strips over the edges.
Foam is an interesting option. I don’t understand how it works. For instance, how do you attach track/roadbed to it? Any sites for articles and/or videos?
My layout is traditional LGirder with sawn out roadbed that follows my track plan. This is a lot slower than a table top type. It’s all drywall screws.
My slot car table I am just finishing now is two 10’ 2x4’s outside with 1x4 ends and crossmembers around 16" apart. It’s 39 " wide and I had 7/16 plywood for the top. And it’s all nailed together.
For me because the foam is only 1/4" thick I use 5/8" small screws smaller than the holes in the track and screw them into the table top. The trick is leave them loose so the track floats on top of the foam and the screws just keep the track from moving. Very little sound is carried into to the table so it runs pretty quiet.
Not sure how Buckeye does it with the thick foam??
Most get foam thick enough to put screws/nails into it to hold track in place from moving. The idea is to hold in place not screw down or naiil down.
Now there is another method used also by some where you drill a hole thru the hole in the track and another just out side the tie and use zip ties to keep in place. Again not tight enough to secure the track of any movement at all.But just being snug
I’ve been trying some lighter materials for my new layout, which I’ve been constructing somewhat modularly. The longest module is 7’ long, and the widest module is 46" wide.
Most of the new lumber is 1x4 and “2x3s”. Legs are pressure treated 1x1s, suitable for deck stanchions.
I’m trying Pergoo style flooring planks, foam side up, for subroadbed. Comes in 51" lengths, easy to cut, easy to handle, and does help deaden the sound somewhat. Look for sales at outlet stores (like Ollies, Big Lots, etc…), and scoop up the loose planks for more savings.
For the areas that need more covering, I enjoy working with the 2’x4’ pre-cut luann plywood sheets. Emphasis on ease of transport, easy to cut, and easy to handle.
72 degree return loops will chew up a lot of space, so I would be leaning towards a complete around the wall style layout, to show off those big shelf beauties you’ve been amassing.
There’s a simpler way that I have seen to hold the track with cable ties: Drill only one hole through the crosstie. Stick a first cable tie tail-down all the way through that. Then put a second cable tie’s head onto the first cable tie’s tail where it protrudes under the table.
I use a little longer screw, maybe 1- 1/2". It has been 15 years since I put most of them in place and I have had no problems with movement. I let the track “float” too. The foam is fairly dense and I get very little track sound. I use rubber ballast and it knocks down the noise, too. The electrical tie method with my MTH RealTrax would be hard to make work. The screws went in very quickly with the electric screwdriver and I can back them out if needed.
When I need to mount certain accessories to the foam, I have used paper clips with a little hot glue.
On my next layout, I going to do something on grades closer to Kevin’s system. Building grades with foam is not easy even when using the prefab foam.
Getting back in the game and getting caught up on all the new electronics. Looking for a track plan that appeared in CTT sometime in the past 5 years or so but can’t find it in any of the issues. Have a number of CTT T0213 _ APLAN. I am lost and had no success in finding the plan on the web site. Can any one help? Much appreciated. Complete rookie to blog so please forgive any missteps.
0213 would mean February 2013 issue. If the number is from the track plan data base, it might mean it was posted inFeb 2013, but I’d bet it was the issue date.
