I am in the process of switching scales from N scale to HO scale. I’m currently building a small 5’ x 1’ switching layout with a small 2’ L. I plan on using either Atlas code 83, or micro engineering code 70, whichever looks better to me. Now to my question!!!
I do not have an airbrush, and i really do not have the funds to purchase one. on all my previous n scale layouts, i used spray paint, a cheap brand called “magic” earth brown, with decent results for N scale. (see pic below) now seeing as the track is larger, and a small layout, i would really like a more realistic rusty rail color. if you have used spray paint, please post and let me know what brand you used. a picture would be great. thank you all again for your input and advice.
I model in N scale, as does my neighbor. I used Micro Engineering’s preweathered code 70 flex track and he used Atlas code 80 and painted it with Floquil rail brown.
This is a picture of his steel mill module with a good shot of the rails.
This is my layout with the pre weathered track.
The preweathered track requires some itense cleaning of the tops of the rails for good conductivity, as well as cleaning the areas for soldering rail joints and power feeds.
Also, weather using Mico Engineering or other manufacturer’s turnouts will require painting them to match.
Having worked on several project layouts for the local NMRA Division, and HO layouts of friends, I’d go with Atlas code 83 and paint the rails.
I don’t see a problem with the color in your rails so much as the lack of variation. Go ahead and use your spray paint and then go back with a palette of white,raw umber and burnt umber and mix up a little of each and using a brush individualize the ties and greasy and dry areas of the track. Using these colors you can even put stains down the center of the track where its appropriate. BILL
Thank you both, Bill and mike. some great ideas and input for me to ponder. I will make my way down to the LHS, and check out the detail level on atlas code 83. Floquil…is this the common brand of spray paint you see in the racks at pretty much every hobbby store?
Floquil is usually stocked by the more “model railroad” oriented hobby shops, but can be hard to find in the more common “crafts” based stores.
If you can’t find Floquil, look for Testor’s Model Master line of spray paint. They lean more toward model cars and military models. The military colors should have something close to weathered rail.
I use spray paint to color my rails, and have found that a combination of colors works best for me. Generally I use Floquil Boxcar Red, Roof Brown, and Weathered Black, giving the rails a ‘soft’ coat of each color, then wiping the railheads down with alcohol and a Brite Boy right after each coat. However, if Floquil is not readily available to you, there is a brand of hardware store outdoor spray paint called “Rustoleum” that works just as well–it’s designed for outdoor patio furniture. I’ve used both their ‘red’ (which is more of a rusty ‘boxcar’ red) and ‘gray’ primer, along with their Flat Black to good advantage. I’ve found that by using very light coats of each color, and hitting the rails before the first coat has had a chance to dry, gives a better, more ‘uneven’ shade.
Here’s some of my yard trackage using the Rustoleum. It works for me.
Ditto, however, I spray the tie-like-color paints like black, brown, and gray from above, after applying the more rail-like-color paints like rust and black from the side. This way the rails won’t be the same color as the ties. It also doesn’t hurt to individually dry-brush ties (some or many) in foreground scenes for more control and variation.
Both have the sides of the rail brushed with some Modelflex rust color.
The Floquil spray colors like rail brown and roof brown look really good, but can be expensive if you just have to order one can. $6 for a 4oz. can of paint and $8 S&H. Maybe your local hobby shop can order you a can on their next Walther’s order.(avoiding S&H)
A few months ago my buddy bought some bottles of Floquil rail brown. The company must have some quality control problems because the paint was a weird shade of green.
I use newspaper held down by masking tape. Spray painting track is best done before installing scenery and definitely before laying the ballast. If you’ve already laid the ballast, it is time for the paint brush.
TESTORS!!! thats the one!! LOL!! you see that brand even in wal mart. i will definately look out for the floquil brand as it seems to be a majority favorite. after looking at my paintedtrack and everyone elses, i do see a difference, mine seems to be darker, and well…more brown!! Thank you again everyone. as always you guys have been very helpful, and i appreciate it greatly! i will post a few pics within the next few weeks, once i get the track down and painted!
Not any more. Wal mart quit carrying Testors paint/glue and all their plastic models.[V]
Most rail I’ve seen looks more brown than grey or rust color. Make sure you have you rail joiners and wires soldered before you paint. Paint WILL get down into unsoldered rail joiners and cause electrical problems. Watch spray painting around your turnout points too!
RIGHT?!?!?!!?! ugh, i was so disappointed, because there was a project MR layout done a few years ago and in one of the pics is such a perfect color of painted track, and the caption said they used rail brown. In reality, rail brown is like a weird olive drab color.
ive painted turnouts in Roof Brown and Tarnished Black. I liked the black, not so much the brown, but it was okay.
nobody here has mentioned the Floquil markers yet. Those are SOOOO much easier to paint the sides of the rails and tie-plates with. SOOO much easier.
I bet this is a dumb question… But why not just use a brush? That’s how I did a small section, and lIked the resuts. Lots of control, easy to provide variations, no masking. Too slow?
It’s not a dumb question at all, and I have to agree about using a brush. And, no, it’s not too slow - I’ve done all the rail on my around-the-room layout, and it’s probably taken less total time than it would have had I sprayed it. I worked on it whenever a window of opportunity arose - got 15 minutes? Paint some rail. It’s probably not enough time to do much else anyway. It’s easier and faster to clean a brush than it is an airbrush, and you can paint without creating all that dust (paint particles which dry before they land on anything) which you get with spray painting. Of course, if you enjoy continuously cleaning track, spray away. [:-^] There’s no masking required, and it’s much easier to do turnouts without gumming them up. If you have some of your scenery in place, or trackside buildings, no need to worry about overspray, either. I use PollyScale, straight from the bottle, and a fairly stiff 1/2" or 3/4" brush. The stiff bristles make it easy to work the paint around moulded-on spike details, and the wide brush holds more paint, so needs less re-filling. After I’ve done 10’ or 15’ of track, or a turnout, I wipe the rail tops with a dry rag stretched over my fingertip - the paint is dry to the touch, but comes off easily, as it takes at least 24 hours to fully cure. I was surprised to discover that not only does this greatly improve the appearance of the track, it’s also a very relaxing aspect of the hobby. And, for all of you who do spray paint your track, do you get covered in paint when you paint the far side of the rails? Or, do you never place your camera on the layout to take pictures from angles which you’d never be able to see in person? In that case, I gu
Doctorwayne?? i think you just inspired me to try painting by hand!!! i never really considered it, because i have a shaky hand, and im not experienced at ALL with painting. But…my dad is a famous artist…im sure he will be happy to teach or help!! thanks again to everyone who has posted advice. you guys are great.
