I just painted my blue foam a nice earth brown color using latex paint, 2 coats does anyone have any suggestion for mounting the foam or anything else to do before I start putting down cork and laying track?
Planning on using a dap non silicone latex clear drying pproduct my railroad mentor suggested it as its supposed to be a lot easier if you want to move or reuse a piece of tracon matthewon matthew
Think about running the wires for your track bus, control bus and accessory power bus. It’s a lot easier to do it before you put down the foam, since you can work from the top.
i should have mentioned, the foam is going onto 1/2" plywood already in place…
under that I ran two busses…DCC on 12 gauge wire and a DC buss for lighting and tortoises
i have a whole bunch of the Atlas track joiners that come with 22 gauge wire already attached so I’ll be putting those n probably every other piece of flextrack and I’ll hand solder 22 gauge wire if there are any places I think need extra power drops…
I found a neat product called posi taps on eBay, they are plastic barrels that have one end with a pointy metal point inside that will pierce the 12gauge wire and on the other end it will take my 18 gauge wiring to goto the droptrack matthewtrack matthew
At the risk of upsetting some of my fellow MRs, may I suggest using a cork base (over the 1/2 inch ply) for your trackage, and leave the foam for scenery uses. You will find it easier to lay solid trackwork, and to wire as well.
I’m sure you will hear that you can do anything and everything over foam, but there is a lot more to doing that than meets the eye…
For those of you that have successfully laid track on foam AND its withstood the test of time, my hat’s off to you!
I thought about doing that and I know from a friends layout how quieter the trains run on the helix and other few spots he doesn’t have foam…
But I have a large river emptying out into a size able ocean harbor
matthew
Using a layer of foam allows you to “cut” out for any scenery features below track level. A bit more difficult to accomplish when frame is fully decked in ply. Any depressed area need to be cut out of the plywood.
I prefer open grid and/ or combination cookie-cutter and “L” girder, allows for greater ease of track and scenery elevations.
I like foam. You can reposition if you need as you are building to take out kinks in track works such as slightly off radii and switches that are causing derailments. Once you are happy with everyone, ballast the track with white glue solution and that gets it down solid. I have about 15 months on a 12’ section which has seen almost outside temps and a lot of construction. It was a pain when the construction was over and I got back in to clean and vacuum, but works perfectly now.
But I am only an 18 month model railroader … (not saying it to be sarcastic just so the comments are taken in perspective)
NP