Jbloch, the rule to remember here is that you’re building model train benchwork, not a Swiss watch. The objective is to get a platform that’s level, stable, and cheap. My present layout benchwork is mostly 2x4’s that were scavenged from the scrap piles of nearby home construction sites. It ain’t too pretty and it’s certainly WAY overkill from a structural standpoint, but the price was right. If you really enjoy the woodworking, and benchwork is an aspect of the hobby that you really enjoy and want to take pride in, by all means use the higher quality wood. Otherwise, cheap and ugly will still get you where you need to go.
My local lumber yard suggested I use MDF board for the table top. After looking at 1/2 inch plywood in the big box stores I understood what they were saying. I used the MDF board, 1/2 inch, and it is really great. Takes nails and screws very well and it is really straight!! It was slightly more expensive but provides a great flat surface.Good luck.
I avoid the use wood whenever possible, I use 2x2 heavy guage metal L channels used in industrial storage shelfs salvaged from a long departed Air Force hanger!! With that being said, I have not found a way to do spline with this material, hence I perfer 1X3 ash for the risers…No woodpeckers need apply. Dave, recreating the mighty SP in 1926 in S…
I used 1x3 (crossmembers), 2x2 (legs), 1x2 (leg bracing) and 1x4 (to the wall) all pine, hand picked at HD, for the understructure. Strenght is in the joinery (thanks Don Z). I used pocket hole throughout, no glue. I’m in the garage, so a coat of oops paint (paint thats been returned for $5/gal) went on.
Used 1/2" birch for the top and 160 lbs has stood on it.
Nothing wrong with pine IMHO. Secret is in construction techniques and prep/finishing.
-Best of luck
Has anyone had any experience using 1" x 4" clear finger joint primed pine for building bench work. This is the remanufactured lumber that uses small sections of pine lumber finger jointed and glued together to form boards of various lengths. I happened to be in a local Home Depot today and noticed they had this product in 16 foot lengths for $11.65 each. They seemed to be exceptionally straight compared with the standard 1" x 4" lumber available in the store. The product at Home Depot is made of Eastern White Pine and is clear of any large knots. I think it’s used primarily for trim work in home construction. My question is in regard to the strength of this product, especially at the glue joints. The fact that it comes with two coats of primer would suggest that it might be more stable with respect to warping because of moisture.
Bob
Bob,
As a carpenter, I sometimes feel that I live at the lumber yard. I deal with a half dozen pending job location.
The primed, fingerjointed pine you are referring to from Home Depot in most cases won’t even work well for interior as is is supposedly intended. In no way should it be used for any exterior use let alone any structural members of benchwork. I had reservations having to use the crap on a particular job where it wasn’t feasable to go through one of my suppliers. Some of the stock broke at fingerjoints as it was on the outfeed of the table saw when ripping. The material I generally use can be ripped to 3/4 x3/4 and when flexed will rarely break at a joint. I use it exclusively for exterior trim where I don’t want the #2 prime pine. I have had small strips sit through days of rain and still remain straight and strong. The HD version is absolute junk and can’t compare at all. This doesn’t mean that the good fingerjointed product will work for benchwork though, use solid 1x stock especially for L girder or any load bearing members. There must be a dec
To Bob K. (bogp40)
Thanks so much for your input. I appreciate hearing from someone who uses this type of material in their work. I had my doubts about the finger-jointed pine, but your professional input confirmed it. I live in the Martinsburg, WV area. I’ve checked the local phone directory and found 2-3 lumber companies within a reasonable driving distance of my home. One of them has been in business since 1878 in Williamsport, MD. I’ll check into the 1" x pine stock at these places. Also one of my neighbors owns a hardwood supply and custom milling company. I’ll see if he can get 1" x birch lumber from him at a reasonable price. I have a lot of 1" x pine lumber left over from my last layout which has been drying for the last 20 years. Would there be a problem combining this old pine with newer birch if I decide to use it on my new layout? Have you ever had any experience with lumber from 84 Lumber or is it the same as the junk at Lowe’s and Home Depot?
Thanks again,
Bob
That seems expensive, at least for the Canadian market. I used white spruce in 1 X 4 at 12’ lengths, and paid CDN $2.99. They gave me a deal saying they would normally go for $3.99. They couldn’t sell them unless they were straight at that price, although some of the handling needed to assure straigthness is in the price…I’m sure. If the primer is latex, moisture will have no problem getting to the underlying wood. In fact, even varnishes aren’t great unless you get costly ones and do several coats.
Since moisture is molecular in size, water has no problem getting past the primer. It will be retarded, maybe even greatly, but if you leave that material in 70% humidity for more than a few days, it will be at or near 70% in moisture content when you measure it.
Personally, I wouldn’t put much faith in any purported warpage resistance in that product. Besides, how you mate surfaces and how you buttress or support them will be as large a determinant of warpage as will humidity.
Just my thoughts.
Bob,
If you decide to use the birch, don’t mix pine within the same framework. The pine can be used for blocking, rises, cleats etc. I don’t know what method of construction you plan for the benchwork, but if there is any moisture issue mixing soft and semi-hardwood could cause troubles. If you do use the pine, just layout and select the stock as needed. Some of the best pine I see is when remodeling and removing old pine shelf units or cabinetry. If the board stayed straight for 25-30 years, it will stay that way. So any of your old pine, if straight should be fine to use. I hope your neighbor can supply you with the stock. His discounted prices for birch should be the same or less than pine at retail. You want S4S (surfaced 4 sides), most hardwood supply/ mills recieve the stock from rough, surfaced 2 sides or fully dressed. Any material you need can be supplied or mil
I have had terrible problems with the expansion and contraction between seasons with wood benchwork. This causes all sorts of alignment problems later. I tried metal benchwork and foam top for a layout in my garage. It worked great with no warping or alignment problems as the seasons changed. Just a thought.
Bob’
I had missed you asking about 84 Lumber. I haven’t used them since I lived in Ca. 20 years ago. They were a decent yard for framing stock and plywood, however, I used to frequent more commercial lumber suppliers around Orange Co. for moldings and trim. This was some time ago and corporations do change, truthfully I didn’t think they were still around, some have closed in NJ that friend had used. Maybe others may know more about 84 Lumber that have them locally.