Anyone have any good ideas, resources or plans on building your own benchwork? I’ve got some ideas but wanted to first pick your collective brains. Overall my layout bench is going to be 8’ x 12’. The only kicker is that I can’t fit a 4x8 sheet of plywood down my basement stairwell. I also want something that can be disassembled if I move in the next 5 years or something. So I’m thinking of ripping the 4x8 sheets into 2x8 sheets…or 4x4 sheets. What should my framework look like underneath? Considering that I want it to disassemble therefore I’ll really have 6 different tabletops to fit together, how is best to connect them all underneath?
Hello, though I,m not the best at explaining it, I have used the L-girder type along with open grid over the years. There are, or should be regular books on building benchwork at your local hobby shop, if you have a hobby shop near you. The L- girder lets you change positions of your risers if you need to later, & that is for the different levels should you want more than 1level of track. Mine have always came out very sturdy, and I found it easy to diassemble when moving. I’m permanent now, moved many times in the past. It’s always been easy to add onto, also. I think Kalmbach publishes the benchwork building books. Hope this helped a little, John
Matt, going with a 2x8 system is a good idea. I did that for my around the wall N scale layout. What you should do to make it modular is build the 2x8 modules, the clamp 2 of them together and drill holes for 1/4" bolts thru the clamped sides. A 2 1/2" bolt, a few washers and a wingnut will make a very secure connection. I’d also do the same for the legs, but I used two bolts per leg(2x2’s). Built in this fashion, you can disassemble and take your tables with you if you move.
Hope this helps[:)]!
Matt, when I did my benchwork I found “How to Build Model Railroad Benchwork” by Linn H. Wescott, Kalmback Books very helpful. Though it is aimed more at HO the techniques are the same. You might find it in the shopping area since Kalmback is the publisher of CTT.
For about the fifth time we dig into the CTT forum archives BTW, if you want the scanned plans just email me and I will send you the .bmp files showing the dimensions of the bench work.
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QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter
[#welcome] to the CTT forum.
Here is an old posting that we just keep recirculating
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QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter
Last year, Chief Eagles stopped by when he was in Wheeling, WV at the grand opening of the Cabela’s store. He wanted to see what I was doing and how it performed. One of the advantages and disadvantages that I have is the slope of the ceiling reflects the sound out to the operator and viewers.
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QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter
Thank you Chief for those kind words. [:)][:)] I know it is hard for you to say such benevolent statements about a YANKEE from Buckeye Land. [:D]
And now on to the foam. Yes, my whole layout sits on foam. It is high-density 2" foam purchased at Home Depot, one of my favorite stores. The foam sits on joists at approximately 16" spacing. On top of the high density foam sits the 1" white foam.
Again, the Chief is correct, I do use deck screw or drywall screws to hold the track to the foam. If you real
I used the CTT book “Toy Train Layout From Start to finish” and the methods worked out perfectly. I can’t seem to post pics on this forum so if you wi***o see a few photos of the benchwork I built just send me an email and I will reply with the photos.
Tim C.
You could take the ideas above and combine it with the concept forwarded by David Barrows in his Cat Mountain and Santa Fe model RR. He used a “domino” theory to build modules for his RR. Each 2x4 domino was something he could work on in front of the TV and then carry it to the train room for installation.
There were several articles in Model Railroader a couple of years ago on his domino concept.
Many thanks to Buckeye Riveter for sending me 20 something diagrams and pictures of his layout plans! I will be re-doing my layout based on his great plans.
Mike
Now that I’m more experienced, I don’t do benchwork anymore. Around the walls shelving is where it’s happening!!!
I use Closet Maid, double fortified brackets up to 2 feet long and have made 3 layers of shelving on the wall (ignore the construction). I lay particle board on it and then 2 foot thick industrial foam.
MATT,
We just got done building my brothers layout and we cut the homosote that he used for his top to 4x4. We used the homosote cause we got it dirt cheap, I would use what BUCKEYE said if I were to do it again. Anyway you do it, one thing to consider is your height. I made mine at 34 inches which was ok for me cause I had scrounged lots of cabinets that our school was throwing out so I used them for my bases. This works ok but had to boost my love seat up 6 inches to see the layout. My brother made his at 18 inches and I must say it looks nice to sit in a chair and check out the whole layout without craning your neck. Just my thoughts.
laz57
My previous layout was constructed from three 36" hollow core doors. I added 1x3 wood cross members to the undersides to attach folding banquet table legs. This gave me a layout a bit larger than 6x9. It worked very well for me. I completed the “benchwork” in about 2 hours. It’s simple, semi-portable, and fairly inexpensive. The doors can cause a problem with noise if you don’t cover it with foam or some other sound-deadening material.
My benchwork started before I retired so I had no time to build from scratch if I ever wanted to see trains run. I opted for the Sievers benchwork and I’m really glad I did, it’s perfect for my application. Plus, if we ever move I can easily adapt these modules to a new setting. I think in your situation it would be ideal.
Knowing what I know now I would have to echo David Vergun’s thoughts, around the walls–shelving. I would come out 30-36"… maybe 40" (I have a long reach). I just have to believe that’s the way to go for ease of construction, being able to easily reach anything and no aisle problems.
Er, sorry to be a nit picker, but did you perhaps mean 2 INCH thick industrial foam? The foam in your pictures doesn’t appear to be 2 feet thick. Then again, I do need to get my eyes examined & a new pair of glasses made …
I’ve got Marine styrofoam that’s more than 2 feet thick; I believe it may be used for docks?
Got it from a dumpster in Alexandria so can’t provide source. It’s 8 feet long and about 4 feet wide and some pieces are well over 2 feet thick. My layout was a lot higher with the foam originally.
Re: Buckeye Riveter’s Idea of Using Foam:
I went to Hobby Lobby today to find a small piece of extruded styrofoam. Hobby Lobby also sells the “Wonder Cutter” for cutting the foam. I paid $8.00 for it. I have used it once on a 2-inch thick piece of foam–the Wonder Cutter cut it instantly. So far I am impressed with this tool. I plan on changing my layout within the next month.
Update: I tried to use this tool on a 4 x 8 ft. (2 inch thick) piece. It did not work quite as well. The trailing end became stuck in the foam and the wire kept coming off.