My benchwork on my 3rd layout in 35 years is now about done. Here’s what I learned. Just my opinions - not the Gospel…
I use poplar for 1X stock (1x2, 1x3, 1x4) and yellow pine for 2X stock. I don’t use white pine. Reasoning: poplar, in particular, and yellow pine to a lesser extent, appear to be denser than the soft white pine. This results in less splitting and better holding of screws.
I don’t use 1X1’s for anything. I find it’s just too easy to split, even with poplar. Also, the wider board gives you more leeway when screwing the board to another board. I use at least a 1X2.
I use Torx head screws only. I use mostly #6 and #8 size screws with #10 only on really heavy duty jobs. The way the Torx head driver fits so snugly into the screws is a huge win for me. I used to use drywall screws but the Phillips head is not as reliable and the thread thickness on the Torx head screws seem to hold better. This is the single biggest recommendation I can make.
I purchased a Right Angle Drill Attachment. It snaps into your quick-release chuck and lets you snap a quick release bit into the business end so that the bit is at a right angle to the drill’s barrel. I try very hard to allow enough room to drill my holes and screws into the benchwork but sometimes I really need to drill in a tight space. Depending on the style you get, you
I decided to use 1 by premium pine for structural members and 1 by PVC for fascia/profile boards.
No 1 by 1 material here either.
I am comfortable with phillips head fasteners. I do not use drywall screws, but outdoor rated construction screws or roofing/lath screws depending on the application.
I bought an angle drill for about $60.00 at Menard’s in Ohio. It was worth every penny! What a handy tool to have.
I am also a proponent of pilot holes, and counter sinks.
I went with steel legs for my design. They are set back about 4 inches from the layout edge.
Turnout placement must be determined prior to risers like you said. If not, you will become frustrated.
I only have one grade planned on the layout. Hopefully I can get away with it, it is pretty steep, about 5.5%.
I designed my layout in 1:1 scale out of cardboard. I know everything will fit as planned.
I’d say this. Pine ain’t what it used to be. Neither is plywood but pine in particular seems genetically modified to grow fast but there doesn’t seem to be any “there” in the material. It is disheartening to drive a screw into pine and watch go in deeper and deeper and deeper …
I’m glad I bought most of my layout wood when I did. And it isn’t like I was overjoyed with it back then either.
Excellent observations. I learned a few of these the hard way… A few points I would add:
The type of lumber will likely vary by region. In my neck of the woods, spruce is the most common wood for this type of construction. I used 1X4 for my benchwork. Pre-drilling is essential when using spruce.
For risers, I used 3/4’’ plywood. I did not regret that.
For the supports that touch the floor base, I added some height adjustor screws - there is no such thing as a straight floor!
To keep my shelf layout and risers at level, I bought an inexpensive lazer tool, which works fine for short distances (12’ in my case).
I used regular pine 1x4 but but you have to go through the stack to find good ones. I use construction screws, rairly predrill it they are new boards, never seem to have a split except once or twice, my fault (you have to pre drill on older pine or it will split.
Dimensional lumber is good for L-Girders and not much else. 3/4" Oak plywood is great for cross-members, joists, grid box construction, etc. It’s much more stable than dimensional lumber and cheaper to boot. Using cleats so you’re not driving screws into the edges is a downside, but not much of one.
Completely agree about the Torx fasteners. Phillips beats straight, but Torx puts both to shame.
I set my chop saw at an angle that matches the grade when cutting risers. It doesn’t matter if there is an unnecessary angle on the bottom of the risers. I use pocket holes in the tops of the risers instead of cleats.
In Canada we of course use the Robertson screw in preference to all other types. We find it odd when travelling to countries where this excellent screwhead design is not used.
True Robertson sockets are tapered so you can easily jam a screw onto the driver bit which holds it in place and then jam the point of that screw (one handed) into that softwood and drive it. Deck screws are ideal for benchwork as they pretty much self tap and self pilot. With well made threads you don’t need a pilot hole unless you are into small dimension lumber, less than 1.5 inches wide. Ironically, pilot holes are necessary when you use good hard wood (that’s hard wood, not hardwood which often isn’t very hard).
You are building a layout, not a house. On my last layout with finished scenery, I gringed when my disabled friend thought it was alright to brace himself on my layout. I said nothing but inspected it after he left (it was 1x4 box with 2" foam covered in plaster cloth with masonite facia), no damage at all and he was around 300lb.
Speaking as a fellow Canadian, I would politely suggest that your information is a bit outdated. I used to use Robertson screws for everything but for my current layout benchwork I used Torx and I will never use a Robertson screw again.
That is correct, IF you can find ‘true’ Robertson screws and bits. Most of the Robertson screws that I have purchased in the last few years did not stay securely on the bits, and the bits popped out of the screws quite easily when being driven. My experience with the Torx screws is that there is no slippage whatsoever. I didn’t count how many screws I used to build the benchwork, but I’m guessing somewhere around 250. Not one slip! Zero! Nada!!
I also found that the Torx screws that I was using did not require a pilot hole and the only time the wood split was when I didn’t have the screw lined up properly and it was too close to the edge. The screws had self tapping tips so they cut into the wood instead of forcing it apart. Drilling a pilot hole certainly makes it easier to start the screw, and the positioning is often more accurate, but splitting was not an issue. I was using white pine.
Robertson screws were a great invention at the time and they have served us well, but unfortunately their time is up! (Well, almost)[swg]
I agree with everything that you have done. You make a lot of good points.
I use 3rd PlanIt as well and I love it! I have planned two layouts with it. One fairly large one for my old club and now a 5’ x 12’ layout for myself. The club layout worked out great. I was able to do the things that you mentioned like planning the benchwork for Tortoise locations (100 Tortoises with no benchwork in the way), and creating all the cutting patterns for the subroadbed (600’ of track). All the radii, grades and clearances came out as planned.
As far as what lumber to use, I was able to get clear white pine from a local lumber mill and it was indeed clear, and straight! No knots even in 14’ boards. It was also cheap when compared to the crap that the big box stores sell. I love working with poplar but it was twice the price. I couldn’t justify the difference.
I wish the Torx screws I got were as good as the ones you got. I’m having the bit pop and slip all the time. I’ve gone through a couple hundred so far and had 2 (not a bad rate) where the screw head was not properly formed and the bit didn;t go in at all. Might be a small speck of metal that is easily cleared away but I didn;t take the time, just grabbed another screw. At least each pack of screws has a freesh bit - the first one is getting a bit worn already (clearly not made as well or of the same material as the ones in my good bit set). Maybe the trick is to have a hammer drill instead of a drill/driver - the ones at or below chest level, when I can lean my weight into the driver, don’t slip out.
I’ve got an 18 volt DeWalt drill and impact driver in a package deal. For a while, I used the drill exclusively. On a certain project, I decided to try the impact driver, and I will never use the drill for driving screws again. I can’t believe I let it sit on the shelf all that time.
That’s disappointing Randy. The screws I used were made by ‘Power-Pro’ (1 1/4") and 'Wood-Pro (2 1/2"). Both were purchased through Amazon. I also used Bosch drivers instead of the ones provided with the screws. I guess I’ll have to cross my fingers in the future hoping that I get the same quality.
FWIW, I used a Bosch impact driver, but I had it set on direct drive instead of using the impact function. As someone said, the softness of the white pine makes it easy to overdrive the screws, but I had no problem with that happening.
I also had to remove and reposition a number of screws because they were driven at an angle. Even after removing and reinstalling them there was no slippage.
Guess I should just get the impact driver to go with the rest of my DeWalt stuff and be done with it. I’m also driving through 2x4s, into other 2x4s, and birch plywood into 2x4s. It might actually work out, the impact driver is a lot shorter so it will fit in the space to screw the joists to the verticals easier.
I think that is one reason I resisted using the DeWalt impact driver at first. It was small, and I thought, without ever using it, that it wouldn’t be powerful enough to drive much.
I was wrong. I have driven large lag screws and long screws through plywood and 2 x 4s, and it made it seem easy.
I’ll just have to hold off on some more track supplies, I went ahead and ordered the impact driver. Looking forward to this, probably going to be another one of those “why didn’t I get one of these years ago” things. Might retire my old 18V drill with the adapter for the 20V packs, since it’s so heavy. My 20V drill will drill holes just fine.
Randy, that is exactly what you will say to yourself. No pilot holes required. The impact drill works best with the resistance of solid boards. Keep us posted once you get it. You are gonna love it.