Its me again. Would like an opinion on my proposed benchwork height . I was planning on 42" from the floor . I am 5’ 5" tall . Does that sound about right ? I would appreciate any input . THANKS RON
My main station is planned to be 42" (1067mm) above the floor, which this barrel-shaped 68" tall modeler considers to be an ideal low level. Track climbs uphill from there, but some hidden staging is up to 4" lower. I built several earlier layouts to that height.
I have another, less obvious, reason for that height. 1067mm is my prototype’s track gauge.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
In my experience, 2 main things to consider when it comes to bench hieght. First, and foremost, working on the thing. You don’t want a layout that’s a back breaker to work on. Too low causes me problems (not exactly a thin, in shape person). Consider also getting UNDER it to wire it. Too high leads to having to use a step to work on distant areas. To me this isn’t as big a problem as stooping and bending. I can also use the step I sometimes use to reach the top rear of sections as a seat underneath the layout. Second, How do you intend to view and operate the layout? Walk around? Seated (not so popular anymore)? Too low, again, it will look like a distant aireal photo. A taller layout tends to help seperate the scenes. I’ve found 48 inches to be about right, no more than 24 inches reach to the furthest track. I’m 5’11" tall. Some say the ideal height is Eye level… I disagree for some of the reasons stated above but you may want to consider it.
Ron,
This is like asking how big is a dog? Layouts come in all sizes for many reasons as well. I am 5’ 8" tall, and I built my basic bench work at 45". The actual lowest track is at 48" and some areas rise to 52" at some towns on the layout. The width of they areas usually varies from 24" to 32". Two areas of the layout are over 60" wide as there are curves there. At least there is nothing to derail back in those areas and they can be reached from under the layout(tunnels). The ‘reach’ issue is something to consider. I use a 12" step stool to assist working on those 32" areas. Most of the track is with 18" of the front edge, so switching freight trains is really not an issue.
My previous layout was at 42"(that was what was considered leading edge back in the late 60’s). I think 42" will serve you well.
Jim Bernier
In my oppinion your bench should be as high as you want it. Mine is between 48" and about 52" but I am 6’ I’ve designed it so I can reach any part of it without trouble. just my two cents
I am 5’ 8" and am happy with my 48" benchwork. I went as high as I could go and still easily reach all my trackwork in the back. I didn’t worry too much about reaching all my mountain scenery since I could use a step stool during construction to reach those areas and wouldn’t need to reach them thereafter.
Mike B.
Keys to YOUR selection on this have already been mentioned: Building and service on the top; and doing the wiring below. Many suggest that the best height is “to the middle of your breastbone”.
Another factor in your choice is the depth of the layout - how far from the front edge will you have to reach in to build/detail/repair? With limited room space, I worked heavily upon the premise that (a) I needed to have the workbench at least partially under the layout and (b) I wanted to fit lots of bookshelves under there to house all those MR and Trains magazines. I needed enough room above the top of the bookshelves to allow me to reach in and do wiring. Also, do you really prefer the “railfan” perspective of looking at the side of the train as it rolls past, or do you want some overhead view of the train snaking through a scenic curve? Do you feel comfortable using a stepstool to be able to really “eyeball” for kinks in that fresh tracklaying job that is toward the back of the layout (some folks understandably just don’t want to stand up on anything that they could fall from)?
Put some masking tape at the doorframe at a couple different heights, writing the number on the slab of tape. Then practice reaching over that height into an imaginary layout to see how effective you will be with a needlenose pliers.
And if you’re wondering, my layout is at 54", but then I’m 5’ 15".
BTW, j610, I recall that you are modelling the Roanoke area, where I resided for over 30 years.
Bill
I have my benchwork built at 48" and have been thinking of lowering it to around 40" just because I have shorter people that may at one time like to view it or even run it someday but a height of 42" would also be great. Not too short for me and not too tall for the short people.
42" seems good to me. Mine is at 35".
I’m 6’-3". My layout goes from 45" to 53". I prefer the trains to be as close to eye level as practical. The wife thinks I’m nuts for putting it so high but once she sees it running and scenic’d then she’ll change her mind…[:D]
-G-
I’m 5’11-1/2" and my track work is 48" - 52". Of course the bench work is a little below that. It has worked well for me. I have a small stool on wheels when I go underneath to wire. I use a small stool to stand on when working on the front to middle of layout, and a 3-step ladder when working toward the back. I think seeing the trains somewhat near the eye level is a good thing to consider.
Have fun. Hal
My first few layouts were all 30". My last layout was 58", the one under construction is 50". While 58" is a great viewing height for the first train, you can’t see much behind it and it’s a little high for shorter folks (I’m 5’11"). It also makes the room seem very closed in with 24" and 30" aisles. But it’s great for duckunders. So far 50" seems good, but the trains aren’t running yet so I don’t know for sure how well it will work out.
Enjoy
Paul
I’m 6’2" and went with 48" to make efficient use of 8’ 2x4’s. I’m happy with it. Makes my duck under “livable”.
Jeffery-Doesn’t 35" hurt your back?? I’ve always wondered how people could use those WS modules with their 36" legs.
A little added info on my first post, where I endorsed 42 inches as a base height.
From that 42 inches, the Tomikawa Tani Tetsudo will play mountain goat, climbing a long, twisting 4% grade to an upper terminal 20 inches above the lower terminal and 60 inches above the floor (slopes down to the front of the garage.) 60 inches is almost too high for me to see into, and my wife and in-laws will need periscopes! (yes, there will be a fold-in step for their benefit.)
Maximum reach in/across is planned to be 30 inches, with most of the layout a lot less.
I bring all of my wiring out to the edge of the benchwork. Ditto with switch throwing mechanisms, both manual and twin-coil. Since I am about as flexible as a steel H column, I have designed my layout to avoid having to do anything except benchwork/roadbed assembly from underneath. Most of the latter can be done by reaching in from the side, except for a few spots in the center of the wide turnback peninsulas.
Can’t say I’m looking forward to tracklaying at nosebleed altitude. Happily, most of the track at the upper terminus is on a 28 year old module which will simply drop into place.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Thanks for sharing. I am looking at 60" to provide a 55" headroom workbench and office work station under portions of the layout. I got this by measuring myself sitting in my chair, and not wanting to bump my head on the layout shelf. But I’m not real happy with the idea of 60" high (I’m 5’10") trackwork either - especially with a 25" aisle in some places.
Fred W
Me, I’m 6’1" the height height i picked is 52"
ray
42" sounds pretty good for your height. One factor of course is layout width. My last layout was around 50" high, which was great for my height (6’) but it meant I had to use a little stepstool to reach some parts of the layout, since there were a few reaches of around 30". My new layout is going to have an upper level of around 58" but will be a 12"-16" wide shelf; the lower level will be about 40-42", it will mostly be a shelf layout 16" wide but will widen out to about 6’ to allow for dogbone “loops” for continuous running. The lower height will make it easier to reach into the layout - plus it’s about right to watch trains while sitting, a factor as I get older.
I wanted my layout to be “as high as I was comfortable with” so I would not be viewing it from a helicopter. I ended up with a layout that was “3 inches below my armpit” (51" base height for 5’-11" person) so that I could reach in during normal operation without knocking over a train car.
My staging area is slightly higher and the room entry duck-under in that area has a 51" clearance making it “no sweat.”
Good luck,
-John
Thanks a lot , all of you . What i plan to do is use the w/s modules and build a frame of 1’x8" on top which brings it to just over 42" . I am going with the w/s benchwork to save time and also the fact that it already has the levelers built in . Again , thanks for allthe help and i will keep you posted on my progress or lack there of . THANKS , RON
I set the bottom of my benchwork at 44". I made each module out of 1x4, so that puts the base of the top of the layout at approximately 48". I found it a comfortable height to work on, using a 1 foot stepstool to work on the back, or center of the layout. At that height, I found that my old Wally World office chair, set all the way down, allows me to work under the layout in comfort. With the rocking mechanism unlocked, I can recline and the best part is, that I can roll around UNDER the layout. I bought one of their rolling carts, and replaced the casters with 4 way ones. It came with one set of locked casters, making it a pain to turn. I attached a power strip to the side of it, now I can take everything I need to work under the layout with me; soldering iron, crimpers, strippers, etc. Another handy item I can plug into the strip, is an automotive drop light. Make sure to get the one with florescent tube in it. It cuts down on heat, and you WILL drop it more than once.
