I dabbled in the hobby when I was 10 but got no help from any adults so there went my hobby, not being old enough to understand electric or building benchwork. After recently visiting several layouts I descided to take up the hobby again. I tried getting my supplies and following directions from the NMRA website… it was CONFUSING!! I got wrong supplies, wrong cuts of wood, not enough wood, etc… I have the frame built but the plywood closest to what NMRA recommended is sooooo heavy (23/32 4x8 plywood)!! I cant lift the table to finish it and the legs cant support it… and I even got bigger legs then it called for!! What can I use instead that is light weight yet strong? I am doing a model railroad here, not building a stage! I plan to use 1inch foamboard over it. I AM READY TO THROW IN THE TOWEL, PLEASE HELP!!!
I started about a year ago after seeing some MRR museum layouts. I am a book guy, so I went book shopping. Kalmbach has a number of good books, including some “Getting Started” books, and some specifc to benchwork. It has worked well for me. One caveat, though. I have found there is no one right way. Often you will see multiple approaches to the same activity in different books.
One more suggestion, start small. It is very easy to get overwhelmed, at least it has been for me.
All you need is a rectangular frame made with 1X4, not 2X4, plus maybe three braces or joists spread evenly between the two long members of the frame. Then screw 1/2" decent grade plywood, such as G1S, onto that frame. For legs, use 1X2 with some braces.
A sheet of G1S will weigh close to 20 pounds all by itself…I think…? But the rest of what I describe will add only another eight-ten pounds. If you installed some blocking at the bottoms of the legs and drilled and inserted casters, it would be a cinch to shove that thing around…keeping in mind you don’t want to tumble your locos if you can help it.
-Crandell
Would be oh so helpful if the NMRA beginner guide there would have some pictures, I mean, this is almost 2014 and this is the internet. All text? Sheesh.
Don;t agree with them splitting 1x4’s to make 1x2’s for the cross braces, just use 1x4’s all the way.
Legs should have no problem holding it up - if you put in the braces. Absolutely need to be braced, just a vertical post of a 2x2 is going to wobble and shake all over the place.
There are other options, 2" think extruded foam insulation instead of the plywood, for example. MUCH lighter. Some places have 4x8 sheets of it, but more commonly it’s in 2x8 sections, so you’d need 2. What you need is a 4x8 box of dimentional lumber, with cross pieces, 2 foot centers is fine, so a total of 5 pieces, cut to 46 1/2 long. Plus two pieces 8 feet long. Make a box, and then put the other 3 cross pieces in between, evenly spaced. Use wood glue and screws. Predrill the holes so the wood doesn;t split. Use the wood glue to attach the foam top. No screws or nails needed, just apply lots of weight (books and stuff) over the areas where the wood is. Let dry for a couple of days. For legs, easiest thing is to use a 1x2 and a 1x3, glue the 1x3 to the 1x2 to make an L shape, glue and screw. at the second cross brace in from each end, clamp the legs in place and drill 1/4" holes through the leg and cross brace, and leg and side piece. Use 1/4" bolts, washers, adn nuts to secure the legs on. Use some 1x2 to make an X side to side along the 4’ side of the legs, adn also make braces to go from the side of the leg to just inside the center cross brace at an angle, 4 in all. This should be a nice sturdy table.
–Randy
Another option is you are worried about weight is build your layout as a sectional using the NMRA standards for modules. Each straight module is 30" deep by 48" wide. The corners are a 48" x 48" square with one diagonal cut to join the straight modules at the 30" dimension making a pentagon. They also use 1x4 for the framing with one brace in the middle. The modules also use 2x2s for the legs with auto levelers attached on the bottoms. The legs are attached using 1/4" carriage bolts making assembly and movement easy.
The skills and tools needed to build a quality free standing model railroad from the ground up can take a fair piece of time to acquire. As Richard said, starting small and working your way up is good advice, so too utilizing Kalmbach’s great beginner books.
My first layout at age 32 was on an HO 4x6 pc of plywood fastened to an old metal desk, an oval of track and one turnout. A year or so later and I’d worked my up to an HO 4x8, but still attached to the old desk. A couple more years and I was ready to attempt an HO free standing cookie cutter style 5x15 layout. There were plenty of mistakes, set backs and do overs along the way, but learned from each and every one.
Hang in there, it’s a challenging journey, but loads of fun and the experience gained will serve you well in many other aspects of life. Heck, I wish there was an internet when I started.
Happy New Year! regards, Peter
njguy,
There are as stated above a number of ways to build benchwork, I have posted below another option which I used to jump start my build.
This is Mianne benchwork which not only is easy to put together, sturdy and light weight, but you can start with any size you can think of build on it forever. Posted below is my layout that is a work in progress.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/215513.aspx
Aflyer
Another option is Sievers bench work, prefabbed as is Mianne. Check it out. Dante
here’s an google image search for model railroad benchwork. Look at what others have done
(where in nj)?
Njguy,
[#welcome] To The Forums. Like others have already mentioned, there are literally ton’s of info out there. To start with MRR Video’s and on the Mag site under ‘‘How To’’ before you start to build any bench work though, it would be a good idea,to nail down, what you want to build it for, like some track plan, or one that someone has built already. Below is a sample of what is available by just clicking on the ‘‘How To’’:
http://mrr.trains.com/how-to/build-model-railroad/2010/02/layout-construction
If anyone has already suggested,what I just did, I apologize, for I did not read all replys.
Frank
Njguy,
Interesting site. For beginners:
http://modeltrains.about.com/od/modelrailroadtrains/u/model_railroad_basics.htm#s7
Frank
Hmmm, let me guess you built a table-top out of 3/4" plywood (yes, it’s officially 23/32", but people tend to refer to it by the nominal measurement)?
I think you’ve mistaken what’s advised for a thin section of subroadbed and applied it to a wide area where 1/2" ply would otherwise suffice. When there are multiple support points, as in a tabletop, there’s no need for the sort of construction recommended for subroadbed, which is typically a narrow section of wood supported along its centerline.
Certainly, if you said you needed bigger legs to support it, your design may leave something to be desired. Did you have angled braces or plywood gussets to help stiffen the legs? I only ask, because I have a very large area in my center penisula that’s is largely, but not completely, 3/4" ply and it’s supported by just four 2"x2" legs, well braced.
Here’s a pic when I had things cleared off to paint the track.
It may actually be worthwhile to look into some basic carpentry books. Knowing material measurements is one thing, but understanding how to work with wood is generally assumed when a list of materials is presented. It can be weak or strong, depending on how you put things together, for isntance you used screws and not nails for fasteners, right?
Don’t know if you can post up some pics of where things are with your benchwork? It’s going to be a lot easier to give specific advice on what’s right and what’s wrong – and what to do about it.
No, the NMRA site really does say build a 4x8 flat tabletop out of 3/4" plywood with a 1x4 frame, and to split a couple of 1x4’s into 1x2’s to make crossmembers, and split some 2x4’s to make 2x2 legs.
–Randy
Yikes!!! Split/rip 2X4’s??!? That’s just silly. For my last layout, onto which I hauled my carcass many times during its construction and scenicking, I did actually rip 1X4’s and use the 1X2’s (which we all know are considerably thinner than their implied dimensions) as the legs. I used smaller elements of those 1X2’s as diagonal braces. I swear I could have danced on my yard section. It was the rectangular frame, but because it was a full 8’ long, I opted to use L-girders on the lengths. With a topping of 5/8" G1S, and the legs and bracing, it was rock solid. Lag-bolted to the adjoining section comprising the rest of the layout, it was not going to budge.
-Crandell
That does seem like both overkill and underkill, yet it presumably worked for the guy who posted the information, who I suspect is very equipped and skilled with various table saws. Few beginners – seemingly the target seeing as they are talking about a 4x8–are equipped to rip their own lumber.
Kalmbach seems to no longer publish Linn Westcott’s book on building benchwork, but it does publish Jeff Wilson’s book as well as a more beginner oriented “Tables for Your Trains.” I’d look there first.
But our friend already has his 3/4" plywood 4x8. If it is possible to cut it in half - perhaps with a simple jig saw – it will be easier to handle and manipulate. I also use 1x4s for all framing and support. I use 2x2s for legs but they’d need some supporting trusses or whatever.
Jim Hediger has written some interesting stuff about making his own legs and framing from plywood rather than dimensional 1x4s. He makes L shaped plywood legs that are glued and screwed together. I have not used that for benchwork but I did build two workbenches entirely out of plywood following Hediger’s methods and they are very solid and strong. As bad as some plywood can be, the current state of dimensional lumber unless you buy the imported stuff from Sweden, is a disgrace.
Frankly I share Tony Koester’s position that the 4x8 is a great source of benchwork plywood but should not be used to make a layout that is 4x8. He recommends having the lumber yard rip it length wise (and smooth out the edges on the belt sander while they
Randy,
I wasn’t disputing what it said, only whether that really is a good idea. That page badly needs an update, but as a mostly volunteer organization, sometimes things take awhile.
As a staunch advocate of 3/4" ply myself, it’s only because of the specific application to roadbed of the narrow variety. For wider areas, where there is support to each side, as well as end to end, good quality 1/2" is almost always suitable. In the case of the pic I included above, it’s only the extensive cookie-cutter effects that caused me to stick with 3/4".
Maybe the NMRA anticipated that in this case, but it should explain it’s no necessary for a table top that won’t see conversion to cookie-cutter at a later date. Otherwise, it is far too heavy. You usually anticipate being able to move a table-top.
I used 1" x 4"s and 2" foam. This 18’ x 6’ bench is picked up easily by two people.
Here’s what it looks like from underneath.
I used lap joints on the 1" x 4"s and this made it very strong.
Brent,
Nice work there.
The OP should note your use of 2" foam. 1" will work, but is somewhat less robust as far as structural strength. Go with 2" and you’ll have no concerns.
Here’s a link to Kalmbach’s Benchwork book.
You should be able to substitute 23/32 plywood for whatever thichness they specify. Or you could buy a thinner plywood. I have found 1/2" (or 15/32) or less can be handled by 1 person, but 3/4" (or 23/32) really needs 2 people as you have found out.
If you have no experience with woodworking consider the pre fab benchwork mentioned above. It’s a little more expensive, but it will get you going.
A quick easy way to get started is to just lay the 23/32 plywood across 2 utility tables that are 2ft x 4ft each (I get mine at Costco, but office supply stores and other places have them). Set the tables about 1 ft from each end of the plywood to minimize sagging. This is not a long term way to go, but it will get you started, until you can build proper benchwork.
Good luck
Paul
My firsr 4’x8’ I built was the very same featured in " The Worlds Greatest Hobby" DVD that came with my first train set. 1"x4" frame with 1/4" plywood top. 1" foam placed on top of that. Very light and very strong. I don’t know if the DVD is still availible but I see it is featured on YouTube. Welcome to this fantastic hobby and good luck! Dave