I have read numerous articles about benchwork construction. All seem to give dimension particulars for the plywood tops, the legs, the braces etc.
Maybe I have missed it but I do not recall too many suggestions as to the type of wood used for the components. (pine, oak, maple, etc)
I am curious to know what you have used. As always, thanks.
I have used cheap but straight 1 x 3 pine in the past, but for my larger layout I intend to use 3/4" high-grade plywood ripped into 3" strips.
Chip: Thanks.
All but one layout to date has been some form of L-girder construction. The exception was a Christmas layout using a 1x3 frame around a piece of 1.5" thick foam.
Cookie cutter L-girder construction in particular has the ability to overcome less than perfect measuring, cutting, and benchwork assembly. I have used the cheapest straight 1x4s and 1x2s I could find at the trash lumber stores (aka Lowe’s and Home Depot). I sort through the pile until I find the straight ones. I will take a board with horizontal curves when laid on edge, but twists or horizontal curves in a board laid flat will cause me to reject a board. Depending on where I was at the time, I sometimes spent an hour searching the stacks for the 6-8 boards I needed.
At home, assembly into L-girders puts an end to any further warping because the grains oppose each other. The boards for joists are stored flat on a rack, and seldom warp when selected and stored that way.
The framed foam construction I found to require more care in construction than L-girder. By not building on a level floor, I introduced a slight vertical curve into my frame which the rigidity of the foam preserved quite nicely. I have found the similar issues in box grid framing - my imprecise cuts led to weak joints.
The use of plywood lumber has its pros and cons. If you have the tools, or can somebody to cut it for you at a reasonable price, it yields “boards” much less likely to warp. But gluing L girders or making joints isn’t quite as simple because plywood is far worse than lumber for fastening into the ends or edges of a “board”.
just my experiences, yours may vary
Fred W
I used a combination of 1x4 poplar and 1/2" birch plywood for the top of the benchwork. As an avid hobbyist woodworker, I decided to upgrade the legs a little bit…they’re hard maple. A photo of some of my work:
Don Z.
My layout uses classic Westcott L-girder design (all screws up from the bottom) and cookie-cut plywood subgrade (also screwed up from the underside.)
My wood of choice is steel. Specifically, steel studs, in two metal gauges and two sizes. My L-girders (C-girders?) and legs are heavyweight 1.25 by 3.75 inch, I have used lighter 1.25 by 3.75 for joists where strength is required and light 1.25 by 2.25 where it isn’t. Risers are shaped from whichever lightweight size is appropriate.
Tools required are simple and inexpensive: small square, tin snips, vice grips, power drill-screwdriver and lots of clamps. Most fastening of stud to stud and plywood to stud has been done with 7/16 framing screws. A few joints, meant to be separated for various reasons, have been secured with bolts and nuts.
My choice has been driven by two facts:
Just my [2c]. Feel free to disagree.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Chuck,
Could you post a photo of your benchwork? I’d like to see how you have used the metal studs for your benchwork. Do you combine 2 studs to form a box for longer spans?
Thanks,
Don Z.
Not to say that high grade ply and oak and maple construction isn’t nice. However I think that that type of construction is way too expensive for the purpose. There’s nothing wrong with pine if you choose nice dry stuff and if you’re able to ,store your material for a week or so in the space where you’ll be using it to stabilize the wood. Then I’d use L-girder construction or just open grid ,because of the ease of changing stuff as you go along. Usually some modification is needed as you build. Also there’s some good info on benchwork available from Kalmbach that you can order on line.
That’s not benchwork that’s furniture !
Good looking furniture too !
Terry,
Thanks for the compliment! I appreciate it very much.
Don Z.
Thanks guys. Appreciate your input.
MR had an article about using steel studs in the past year or so. I have a paranoia about wiring a railroad and getting zapped by the framework that I need to overcome to use it but I think it might be the way of the future. There must be some peculiar items that an entreprenuer could develop for use with steel studs for layout building.
I have always used pine.
Lately, Lowes’ cheap stuff is something called whitewood. I used some for trim pieces on a shed. It splits very easily - you need to drill pilot holes near the ends (<12") regardless of the screws you use. It also seems to warp more easily and the edges splinter/fray more. It’s only real advantage is that it’s cheap, but I don’t recommend it.
My current layout is using pine - grade C&better or Select. It costs more at Lowes $7 vs $3 for 1x4 8’, but it is a dream to work with compared to whitewood.
I would only use Oak or Maple if my wife let build the layout in the “unused” living room/dining room - more likely that I’ll win a lottery even though I didn’t buy a ticket [(-D]
Enjoy
Paul
The only good lumber is that which has been cut,attached together in the form of benchwork,finished and put in a box.[(-D] Paraphrase from Readers Digest.
Plywood can be used if you have the tools i.e. table saw. Decent 3/4 hardwood plywood in birch or oak @ L’s or HD runs just over $40 here in Twin City area. A 4x8 will yield 13 1x4 (3-1/2 wide) strips, translating to $3 and change per strip. My layout is delayed until retirement which is delayed until sale of home we moved out of in May. I plan to sort of L-girder, with the top member dadoed (grooved) 3/4" in from one edge to accept the vertical member, leaving 2" on the inside for attaching risers. I am considering using 1/2" for the top member, putting the cost at about $2 per top member. The groove needs to be only about 1/8" deep for the vertical member to align absolutely straight, and to prevent screws through the top from splitting out the edge of the vertical. Glue will be used as well. Cross members and cleats will be pine because of the split factor, risers can be either. Gary
Paul: I have seen the “attractive” price ads for whitewood. Thanks for the heads-up.
Thanks to all.
I have sucessfully used cheap 1x2s and 1x3s for L-girder as well. As has been pointed out, the L shape helps pull both of them straight. I have been pleasantly surprised. Two words (is is it one, if it is hyphenated?) pre-drill. Don’t try to get away without it.
Pre-drill…Gottcha. Thanks.
Mine was simple and cheap…
stud grade 2x4’s for frame and legs 2 bucks and change, x 8
5/8 particle board…(the heavy duty floooring/siding kind) @ 12.98 per sheet x2
1/4 inch fiberboard without holes (like the perforated shop board) 2 @ 6.99
Box of 3/4 drywall screws…4.98
grass green paint…1/2 gal…6.99
Listening to the old lady complain about me spending money…priceless!!
I, too, used ripped 1X4 to fashion L-girder construction with joists. I chose every piece of clear spruce that I purchased, and then stacked it in my basement for one week to equalize. Fortunately, nothing changed shape noticeably, but I did have to muscle the odd part of an L-girder together a bit to keep the two pieces lined up.
Construction of a bench, or a shelf, can often be much lighter than we estimate, particularly if we will never get up on it to do some work. This applies to the supporting legs, too. Once you have to kneel on it and do any cyclical hand movements, you’ll need sturdy stock and sway braces…or it’ll all go “keeerack!”
Yes, please…pre-drill. Always. That is an excellent tip.