What’ s the best way for constructing bechwork on a beginers layout ?
It really depends on several things. Like how good a woodworker are you and what tools do you have on site. Also how large an area the layout will occupy and whether it will run around the wall or be in a square or rectangular configuration. Let us know and we can probably offer more. If it ain’t fun, let somone else do it.
LOL
BB
A sheet of plywood is easiest. Woodland scenic foam it easier but pricey. I like open benchwork because I like grades tunels and bridges. Anything that gives a firm level space to lay track is enough. After you have a track plan it is easier to decide. Model Railroader Mag has had a lot of articals over 50 years of various ways. They all work.
You may not want to get so technical on a small layout, but there’s a Model Railroader book that covers nothing but benchworkd (I bought it from the Kalmbach website, can’t remember the name as I don’t have it with me) but it covers almost all aspects of benchwork construction, from the simple box frame plywood table, to much more complex mushroom style layouts. It’s worth having if you think you’ll ever build a bigger layout!
This page on the NMRA’s site http://www.nmra.org/beginner/bench48.html has written instructions on how to make benchwork - but no pictures. The layouts on this page http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/001/215lorqk.asp have pictures but no written instructions. Together they should get you going.
Enjoy
Paul
In the latest MR there is an article on building benchwork that looked good. It is simple to build and sturdy.
soumodeler
The Southern Serves the South!
I prefer the shelf style railroad. Each section is 2’ wide and 8’ long and is constructed of 1X4 pine framing with a lauan top that is glue and screwed to the framing. Two inch foam is glue to each section. Each section is attached to the side walls of my train room using a cantilevered support sections every 5 or 6 feet and run the perimeter of the room. The sections are also lagbolted together and are about 50 to 60 inchs off the floor for storage underneath. It’s not real rocket science, but the layup is very sturdy and I’m definately no great carpenter. There are no mitered cuts and the best thing about a shelf road is that it leaves the middle of the room free to walk around in. Each section is extremely light weight and it 's height brings the layout more to my eye level as opposed to looking down on it. I believe it is mentioned in the book from Kalmbach publishing that is referenced above.
I use “L Girder”… it’s a good sturdy benchwork and has the benefits of allowing you to raise or lower the track by installing cleats and risers…check out my webpage album …the first few pictures explain how to build it… http://community.webshots.com/photo/137793353/143341248VlGagO
click the next button to see all the steps I took building the L girder benchwork chuck
I used steel studs (available at The Home Depot). They are easy to work with and do not require wood working skills.All you need are a pair of tin snips a marker, tape measure, and a square (and of course the studs). You do not have to worry about them splitting like wood and they are strong. I do reccomend using gloves when working with them because they do have sharp edges.