I’ve got a question reguarding construction of a new layout. I want to build the layout in the basement of my home and would like to finish construction of the basement first. Drywall is up ,but it has to be carpeted. I’m sure the layout would be much better on the concrete, but is it possible to construct benchwork on carpet ? Any suggestions ?
Also I’m adding ceiling lights. Is it best for incandesant or flurescant?
Thanks[:)]
my friend had both types of lights in his train room. i think the flurescant would be better as they are usually brighter.
what he did was built his layout then put carpet samples around where he would be walking the most and left concrete where he would just be storing stuff or wouldn’t be walking. that is probably cheeper as well.
If you haven’t already, you might want to put down a concrete sealer. There is no reason not to build the layout on carpet that has an even surface. The legs will indent the carpet like any piece of furniture so you might want to sand the bottoms smooth. Wall to wall carpet has tack strips along the wall which will make the layout uneven if you have legs against the wall the same length as those out from the wall. Use a good pad since concrete floor can be hard on the feet and legs.
Enjoy
Paul
If you’re building traditional benchwork, it’s weight will make it stable on carpeting. I’d suggest you DON’T put down carpeting for awhile, however. You’re building a model railroad, which is a messy endeavor. Plaster, glue, paint and sawdust will be flying everywhere, and unless you’re REALLY conscientious about putting down drop cloths before you start any construction, you’ll likely ruin the carpeting. In addition, the legs of the benchwork will leave semi-permanent divots in the carpeting.
t’s probably better if you build your layout on the (sealed) concrete floor, and add remnant runners in the aisles only, once the messiest parts of construction (benchwork and plastering) are done. Leave the wall-to-wall carpeting for the day you move out and want to sell the house with a finished basement.
As for lighting, it’s a very personal choice. Incandescent lights give off a more yellow, and thus more realistic, lighting. They eat up power though, and also emit a lot of heat. You’ll need a fairly large amount of bulbs to well light a largeish layout (well lit = no “black holes” where no direct lighting shines). Flourescent lights are more expensive than incanescent, unless you buy cheap fixtures. Cheap fixtures have cheap ballasts, which will flicker. Cheap bulbs will give off a blueish and unrealistic light. Long exposure to flourescents give many people headaches, because their brain can “see” the flickering of the bulbs. Good fixtures with quality ballasts will cost upwards of $50 apiece, and natural lighting Chroma bulbs start at $30 (and go up to $100!) If you want night effects and want to dim the room lights, dimming circuits for flourescents are rare and VERY expensive. On the positive side, flourescents illuminate a room more evenly, reducing the number of black holes, and they’re cheaper to operate (they use less power). They also don’t give off much heat.
I’m using incandescent because flourescents give me headaches, and because I prefer the color of their li
Thanks for the reply’s. One thing I hadn’t considered was the mess which will be created, all I was thinking about was the saw-cutting of the benchwork, which I can do in my garage. But I suppose there will be cut-outs etc. I will hold off on the carepet for now ,which is a good thing because I can start sooner than later.
Regards
I put down commercial grade tight weave carpet before I started the benchwork. I was able to do the most of the cutting of material out in the workshop area of the basement. A heavy duty shop vac made quick work of any mess in the railroad road room. I think having carpet downthroughout the railroad room is the way to go. Concrete floors geneate lots of concrete dust which I’d rather not have to deal with.
Tom Watkins
I go back and forth on this one. Currently I am leaning toward interlocking rubber mats that are black. They 2’ x2’ and are under $4.00 at a home center like Menards here in the midwest. Mythoughts are it disappears when running the railroad rather thandraw attention like carpet would and should be cushier.
I finished my last train room with industrial carpeting glued directly to the concrete. Mess problems are minimal if you make judicious use of newspapers, etc. while working on scenery. It cuts down on noise and is much nicer to stand on than plain concrete. If you’re really worried about not being able to preserve the carpet, try vinyl tile. Two train rooms ago I used the tile and installed it after the layout was up. The floor covering made a huge difference in operation due to the elimination of concrete dust from the air.