Hello everyone[:)], I have recently installed a soundtraxx tsunami decoder in a Lifelike HO scale berkshire, but I’m experiencing an unusal behavior. With every revolution of the drivers there seems to be a binding right when the crankshaft reaches the 7 o’clock position. It is most noticeable between speed steps 1 thru 7. Before I installed the decoder the locomotive ran as smooth as silk on DC and still does when I unplug the decoder. I haven’t reprogrammed any of the CVs except for the address and the start voltage seems to be perfect. I am still new to the world of DCC and would greatly appreciate any advice you might have.
Even thougth I’m disappointed with this performance issue the Tsunami decoder is pretty cool![:D]
I can’t see how the decoder could cause this, but it could still cause it by being set for a number of speed steps that is not particularly suited for that model. Just a SWAG…sorry.
If it ran well prior to DCC, what about installing a decoder would cause a hitch in the drivetrain? Could you have inadvertently pinched, bent, or altered the valve gear or side rods? That is all I can think of.
Thanks for the reply,
I’m positive I did not damage the running gear. The locomotive runs perfectly with the decoder unplugged. At the moment the decoder is set to 128 speed steps but I will see if 28 makes a difference.
Could a stray, tiny, wire be intermittently making contact where it is not meant to? Maybe the contact is so fleeting that the system does not fully react to it, but is enough of a duration that it causes the decoder to order the motor to pause ever so briefly.
I do not know how it is even possible, but it appears to me you have already isolated this as a decoder caused/related problem, since you say it is still smooth as silk without the decoder on DC. Could it be tied to the chuff rate? I don’t know. I believe I would give Soundtraxx a call, they may already know the answer on somthing like this.
Thanks for the comments guys. Tonight after work I will run some more diagnostics and play with the chuff rate - which is way off @ the moment. Does any one else have any thoughts? Thanks again.
A Couple of thoughts here
Check your drivers as you may have inadvertantly bent a rod, it’s happened to me.
By-pass the circuit board, better yet rip it out. I’ve done this with two locos already this week as the circuit board did not get along with the decoder. A third loco had it’s circuit board removed and I’m just waiting to get heat shrink before I reassemble it.
Just remember to keep the resistor of the light bulbs and don’t worry about the capacitors.
Fergie
I have removed the ciruit board from the tender. All that remains is the factory wired 8-pin decoder plug. I will check the rods as well but I don’t see how I could have bent one - maybe I’m wrong. During the installation the tender was fully disassembled yet the loco was never touched.
Thanks, Fergie
I’m waiting with bated breath for a answer.I have the same problem with my Heritage/Tsunami Berk.It’s a very slight glitch at slow speed but I figured that it was a problem that would go away with break-in.I’ve never run it on DC or with the decoder removed
It’s nicw to know I’m not the only one with this problem. If I find a solution I’ll post it.
At last resort I will contact Soundtraxx.
FWIW, I have a Tsunami installed in an IHC Mike, and it also has a hitch at slow speed, mostly while descending a grade. I just ignore it because it is the only time I notice it.
okay guys
First off, I had a similar problem with the P2K 0-8-0. I had a Sountraxx Plug-n-play decoder in it. It ran smooth as silk till I took it apart to greese the running gear. After that it was a mess to get back together and it never ran the same. It seemed the gears would bind at set positions. I obviously had a driver out of quarter, or a rod bent. I had to send it back to life like for repair. When I got her back, she greatly improved, but was still jittery up to speed 7. As a bunus though, Life Like repaired a few stanchions I accidently broke. I didn’t even ask them to. So that made me a dedicated customer! (I hope Walthers has this same level of customer service now…but I digress.)
Second, I have the Tsunami in my Berkshire as well, and have absolutely no problems. Remember the Back-EMF is off by default on the Tsunami’s. You need to program it. (See user manual) It’s a fairly painless process and really helps with the train’s low speed movement.
For those of you with Lenz systems, I’ll soon have a tsunami programmer program out for free.
That sucks, so it is the decoder. Unfortunately I plan on doing some on line switching with my berks and the hitch will be noticeable. One of the reasons why I purchase Lifelike steam is because of their smooth slow speed performance. Perhaps I should consider installing a Digitrax sound fx decoder instead. Any hitch problems with those decoders?
Thanks for the info DigitalGriffin. I will have to try the Back-EMF when I get home. Disregard my past thoughts on changing decoders - seems the SoundFX is inferior to the Tsunami.
I agree with you concerning LifeLike support and hope the Walthers take-over does not effect both the models or the service provided…we can only hope. For the past several years I have only purchased LifeLike locomotives due to their great detail and performance and if they go down hill that only leaves me with Kato (who has yet to produce a HO scale steam loco). If you haven’t gussed already my layout is steam only!!
Thanks again.
OK, I need some help turning on the Back-EMF or at least some clarification. Occording to the users guide there is Back EMF Cutout (CV10) which has a default value of 0 and there is BEMF feedback intensity (CV212) with a default value of 255. So, from what the text is telling me, it seems that Back EMF is ‘on’ by default not off and is set to maximum. Is there a CV that enables/disables both of these?
My brain is rounding around about this. The loco was not touched at all? Just the tender?
I have the LL berk, dang smooth as silk at switching speeds.
Like any steamer driver quartering is a must.
I have a few clues to think about this.
How does the the sound get its syncing down for the drivers? Its supposed to be a chuff every 1/4 turn of the wheels pretty much at the full up/down and forward/back of the drivers.
Run it on DCC and run it slow and watch the drivers carefully for even the slightest binding.
And even try it on DC.
DC throttles may have more stable power to the motor, IE more ready amperage.
A DCC decoder is a throttle all by itself onboard the engine. How much power is actually available to the motor in various speeds is the question.
If it hits a driver bind it may not be able to overtake the bind as well with power.
I don’t know what the power signal to the motor is if its a true DC signal or pulsing or whatever. Whatever the case maybe a higher amperage Decoder would be better.
Like always however, lubricate the siderods with light plastic compatible oil, the prototype does…(grease not oil :)) and other bearing surfaces. Including the rods into the cylinders.
Hitching is tough to figger out and debug and I have done my share of quartering
regearing Rivarrosi engines.
Yup, the loco wasn’t touched during the installation, just the tender. The chuff rate is adjusted by trail and error by setting certain CV values (one chuff for every quarter turn). I have run the loco on DC and the performance is great - nice and smooth at slow speed.
Back on DCC and the hitch returns. It is more pronounced in forward motion than in reverse.
The decoder is rated for 1 amp and the max.
stall current for the loco is .67 amps.
Guys,
I’m wonderin’ if the problem isn’t with the motor and not the decoder. On DC, there is enough “umph” to pass through the tiny hitch, but on DCC, the hitch shows up, even in reverse. My guess is that the motor is slightly out of alignment with the gears. or there is excess endplay in the motor’s armature. Since LifeLike is probably using a universal joint and drive shaft for sending the power from the motor to the gearbox, that leaves the motor armature to look at. Take the slack out of the armature, poli***he commutator, and lubricate the motor bearings, and I bet you fix the problem.
You could try a second decoder temporarily if you really suspect the decoder. Just use a simple one without sound but with 128 steps. If it behaves the same, look at the motor. If the problem clears up, it’s probably the decoder.
Good luck,
Mark C.
Thanks for the advice mcouvillion.
I bought this berk from a hobby shop in Florida off of ebay (new - never used). Maybe I’ll have better luck with the new 770 series berks coming out soon.