I buy Ambroid’s Proweld. It’s the same as Tenax, but you get almost twice as much for the same price. It will work with “Styrene, Butyrate, ABS & Acrylic (Lucite or Plexiglass)”. Micromark’s “Same Stuff” is exactly that, the same stuff as Proweld and Tenax.
For weights I used walthers goo and for the plastic I use Faller Super Expert cement.
Sometime ago, I read how CA glues work. I’m no chemist but it works something like this: CA cures by the chemical forming a polymer chain or something, then the uncured CA that is touching the cured CA, starts to set up. This kind-of chain reaction continues until the CA is completely set up. The article said isopropyl alcohol or water could be used to start the CA curing. I didn’t have a spray bottle of alcohol, or water so I exhaled slowly on the wet CA; thinking the moisture in my breath would be sufficient on a molecular level. When I do this, the glue often turns white and produces hazing -on painted surfaces as well as raw plastic (clear plastic was not an issue on boxcar kits).
Maybe the grade of CA is important? Maybe you CA’d when it was very humid? I have used hobby CA’s from Zap, local hobby shop brand (purple?and silver label?), and the cheap, 4 bottles for a buck, “Krazy” glue. They all act similar but there does seem to be some kind of difference in formula, observed by different cure times, cured texture and strength (but that could be attributable to misapplication on my part - this wasn’t a controlled experiment, just observations).
Anyone else do heavy breathing to ‘kick’ your CA joints? (refrain from making heavy breathing jokes…actually,…don’t; there are some funny people on these forums. I can’t wait to read the following posts. lol)