Given that the popular flat finish is not longer available, what is the best brush-paintable flat finish? I may be a little bit old school, but I prefer to brush paint everything. There is less masking involved and I think you have more control over the paint. (So you don’t think I’m that old, Amtrak predates me.) I tried to use Badger’s Flat Finish, and all I ended up with was the gloss finish showing through. I even tried two coats. I don’t know if I did something wrong or what. I would prefer water-based but if I have to go solvent, I have played with Scalecoat II, which, ironically enough, is what I have to flat finish. Any help would be welcomed.
I think that your choices may be rather limited, as most model paints nowadays dry too fast to be brushed-on effectively. However, Scalecoat 1 lists Flat Glaze, Gloss Glaze, and Satin Finish, and my guess is that these are clear finishes, probably with the longer drying time of Scalecoat 1 paints.
Wayne
There are other Model paints out there that are Flat finish,just not railroad colors per say…Military colors for models and figures, also buildings…To use them,takes a little different approach,then most are used to when brush painting,but they work perfect,for brush work,once you get the technique nailed down…For starters,There is, Tamiya,which has many colors to choose from,Citadel,Import,expensive,Vellego,that’s,spelled wrong,I’m sure…Any way there are others,in my opinion work great for brush painting…My other Hobby is ships and Military Dioramas…If you can,pick up a copy,of Fine Scale Modeler,for idea’s…
Cheers,
Frank
Wayne mentions w/ the evolution of most modeling paints these days, that many don’t brush well for a decent finish. I have found Tamiya to be an excellent choice for brush painting. Many waterbase choices, even though will lay flat, will need multiple coats as the pigmentation can be weak in it’s coverage. The Tamiya works very similar to the Floequil in this respect.
Floequil, even though production has ceased. will still be on shelves for some time until supply is depleted. Stock up (as I have), The common colors may disappear, however items like the clear flats should be easily found. Scalecoat 2 works decent brushing just need to coat quickly to stop brush marks.
Not a real fan of “rattle” can painting on models, due to quality of spray/ nozzles, but there are many acrylic flats available to clear coat that will provide a far better “smoother” finish than brush painting.
Best results are AIRBRUSH…
If you might know where I might find some, let me know, because both the closest thing I have to an LHS and the IHSs (Internet Hobby Shops) don’t have any flat finish in Polly Scale.
I have never had any issues with brush stokes with the SC II paint that I have used. I have painted an Athearn work caboose and never noticed any evidence of brush strokes.
Probably true, but where I live I don’t have the capability to properly hook up a spray booth. And using an airbrush outside is time limited as I live in a Northern climate.
Unfortunately, I work with plastic models which SC 1 is not recommended for.
Yeah, I overlooked the fact that brush painting Scalecoat 1 (or original Floquil for that matter) isn’t practical on plastic or over water-based paints. Both can, however, be airbrushed over such surfaces.
You could try matte medium for brushing - test it on something else first, but one of its uses is as a protective surface over paintings, and it’s also water-based. It goes on milky white, but clears as it dries.
Wayne
My favorite for airbrushing is still the solvent based Testors Dullcote. I’ve always preferred it to anything from Floquil or Scalecoat. It seems to work pretty well for brush-paint applications as well.
For larger projects like structures, I like Treehouse Studio acrylic flat, which is available in large spray cans from Hobby Lobby. Unlike every other spray can product I’ve tried it dries dead flat. It can be decanted into a jar and brushed on too.
I hadn’t thought of using matte medium as a flat finish over paint before. That is something I will have to try.
Beware, it goes on REALLY thick and tends to develop pronounced brush marks. It doesn’t brush on in nice thin coats like products like flat finishes for model paints.
I don’t do very much “brush painting”, I usually use an airbrush.
As far as a “Flat Finish” goes, I use Testor’s Dullcote. I have used other products including “rattle cans” but for me, this has been the way to go.
I don’t think they (Testor’s) dropped it from their line of paints like they did Floquil & Pollys S.
I figured that I would need to thin it down somewhat when I use it anyway. Even when it is used as a railroad adhesive, it is thinned down.
I guess I must do everything wrong, then! I have used Floquil and any model paint I have ever owned; or, acrylic paints over what ever paint was used to paint the model by the manufacture; or, previous owner, without ever encountering any problems. I do not have; nor, do I want an airbrush and I only paint with brushes. For having done all these things, absolutely wrong, I have to say I have some pretty good looking stuff! I know that there are paint incompatibilities with some paints and have stayed away from those paints. I don’t want them and don’t need them, because sure enough, the next time I will use them, I will screw something up.
It’s my experience, that despite the fact that Floquil and Polyscale are being replaced/renamed, flat colors are more available today, then they were 10-20 years ago. Try the Ceramicoat line of acrylics.