I have a 5 stall HO scale Korber roundhouse that I am building (actually rebuilding), and I’m wondering what is the best glue to use?
I understand these are resin kits, and some styrene glues do not work. I am also not a big fan of AC glues.
I did recently find a good buy on Devcon epoxies from ACE hardware, and I figured these could be used for final assembly?
I’m wondering about what I might use to ‘tack’ things together in the initial process of assembly, prior to final gluing? Could regular old Testors liquid model cement be used for this ‘tacking together’?
It is disdained my many (and often not used the way its instructions recommend - applied to both surfaces and left alone for a few minutes before joining) but Walthers Goo still has a place on my workbench.
Brian, I think that I may have previously offered a link to my construction of a Korber roundhouse, but I’ll include it again HERE.
I’m not a fan of ca for kit building, and generally use it only for adding metal details (grabirons, sill steps, or piping) to plastic kits.
The Korber parts have somewhat irregular mating surfaces, so a filler-type ca might work, or perhaps epoxy. As you’ll see in the link, I did use some epoxy, but not as the primary adhesive.
The thin water white plastic welder cements only work on styrene plastic. I don’t think they would have any stick on resin. Epoxy works on nearly everything and is fairly gap filling. Should work fine on a resin model. Walthers Goo works on most things, it offers instant tack and when dried it sticks hard. It is solvent based and will warp styrene. CA or superglue sticks to anything (including you). You can unglue it with acetone (nail polish remover). I use it to stick metal details to plastic shells and brass details to Zamac steamers. I read that a lot of people use it on resin kits. I haven’t done a resin kit yet so what do I know?
The first photo on the first page shows some of the screws, but on page two of the thread, the first five photos are better examples. There should be other photos showing them covered-over, and again later, after painting…where they’re not visible at all.
maxman, I do appreciate the fact that you did investigate the link, as I often wonder if there’s anybody that bothers to follow them. I know that I do, when others post them, as they often contain additional good information.
Dr Wayne,
Yes I do remember that subject thread of yours, and specifically marked it so I would have some good directions/suggestions to follow when I attacked mine.
I woke up today wanting to just tack some pieces together as I go to measuring up my floors. Didn’t have time to fully go thru your previous thread to investigate that ‘tacking subject’,…and that prompted me to post this thread to just explore real quickly what glues others might have used on resin kits.
I ended up using some hot melt glue in a really limited manner, and it worked for a while. But when the hot summer sun peaked under my carport and hit my outdoor work bench, some of those joints came apart. But luckily I had time to cut out my floor pieces, so now I have a base structure to start assembly with.
Another item prompted my inquiry. When I was taking the previously assembled kit apart, I was surprised that I was able to remove all of the windows without any sign of breakage. I’m still in awe of how the original assembler was able to put the kit together with very little over-use of adhesive?
BTW, I am looking to build my kit with no roof, so one can view the big steam engines parked in there. For that reason I want to have good clean joints on the inside there.