Having assembled a few rolling stock kits, I’ve seen underframes made of metal, styrene and stripwood. I’m planning to scratchbuild some of my own rolling stock, and I was wondering if there is any real difference between the materials in terms of structural integrity for models?
You didn’t mention what scale you are working in or what era you are modeling. Assuming you are working in HO scale and building cars for the modern era styrene plastic is probably your best choice. It is easy to cut and glue and your can get a lot of different size strips and sheets. You might do best to buy a kit that is close to what you want to build and modifying it. That is called kitbashing.
I’m modeling the D&RGW in 1928 in HOn3, and have already built a few rolling stock kits, along with scratchbuilding a wood gondola using a Micro-Trains HOn3 chassis. My main reason for asking is that scratchbuilding is less expensive than kits or R-T-R. I don’t have any more spare chassis around, so I’m trying to determine the best material to use for the load-bearing part of the freight car.
metals offer the advantage of adding weght low in the car. More important will be the level of detail wanted and ease of working with the material of choice.
Any can be used, most of it depends on the effect you want and how well you like the material. Plastic and metal are good for simulating metal. Plastic and wood are easiest to simulate wood. Enclosed cars can have any material because you can put weight in the carbody. Metal is often best for open top cars becuase the underframe can be part of the weight.
A 4th option is resin. You can make one master of an underframe and then cast copies.
Well if the material used on the 1:1 car was wood and if you are a skilled wood worker that would be my material of choice for that era. For me metal would be difficult as I don’t possess the proper metal working tools.
I have scratch built boxcars from wood. A milled basswood roof and floor (Northeastern) and end blocks, assembled with yellow carpenters glue is plenty strong enough. Sides cut from glossy photographs, with embossed rivets take paint well and look just like steel. For that matter, styrene or brass are surely strong enough too.
My scratch building has always been with wood under frames which has worked just fine. Kits have been wood, plastic, or metal - these all worked out just fine. RTR is plastic or metal - these both work just fine. So I’d say use the one that appeals to you.