I have to replace our small train platform for next year’s under the tree display (warped). I’m wondering what would be the best material that wold be most resistant to warping. The platform is small (about 4’ X 6’). My thought was to use a good, warp resistant wood. I was going to then use some furniture feet/buns to raise it off the floor a bit.
This will most probably be stored off season in the basement. However, I might make the feet removable and make the platform two piece to I can put it in the back of a closet or some other, less damp location.
Any material tips would be greatly appreciated. If there are non-wood alternatives as well, let me know. Any surface used would have to accept landscaping well, of course.
I look forward to hearing tips, suggestions, etc. I can’t wait to start planning the little layout again (already!).
Your best bet - in my opinion of course - is to get a sheet of plywood - at least 1/2 inch with one B (smooth) surface. I would then frame the underneath with 1x2s (think picture frame). This will keep it reasonably free from warping, especially if you paint the entire thing before using. If you have to store it in the basement, at least have it on edge, and off the floor.
This particular part of the Forum is mostly inhabited by HO and N scale modelers. If you are using larger scale trains (Lionel, etc.), you might want to visit the Classic toy train section of the Forum.
Two-inch insulation foam, the extruded kind sold by Dow and Corning, would be highly unlikely to warp. It is also very light. Otherwise, if it must be wood, I would resort to anything from a good quality 5/8" cabinet grade plywood to the same grade as thick as 3/4".
I used standard 1/2" plywood with 1x2’s for a perimeter frame and one cross brace. You might even be able to make a frame that would pull your current platform back to flat.
The 2" foam is a good suggestion, also. I would suggest a frame around it to protect the edges from damage during storage. Luan or masonite attached to the edge with latex caulk should work,
How strudy is the insulation? Would that be the only material for the platform or would it have a wood backer?
I guess if the insulation was the only material, I would have to build some type of a frame or stand for it. Plus, our tree goes on top of the platform so that might put a pin in this idea, right?
Did the existing platform sag from lack of sufficient support (not warp)? What material was/is it? How closely are the supports spaced? What kind of weight does it have to support.
Even the best 1" thick plywood will sag if it is only supported by 4 legs. Especially if the tree is on top of the platform.
What I did for my Christmas layout was build a picture frame (4ft x 5ft) of 1x3. I then glued in 1.5" thick blue foam with the bottom of the foam flush with the bottom of the picture frame. This would allow the foam to distribute the weight of the tree over the floor or whatever floor protection I had between layout and floor. I then glued 1/4" plywood on top of the foam so that the tree would not sink into the foam, and to have a surface to screw the Lionel track to. I painted the whole thing a forest green.
I was really pleased with the result. The edges of the 1x3 rose above the plywood by about 3/4" to form a lip and platform edge. I could carry and handle and store the entire thing by myself (except in high winds). It didn’t raise the tree excessively.
I am guessng that the layout supports the Christmas tree in it’s stand. If so that is a lot of weiight and construction is going to be as important as material. You will need to have direct support to the floor under the feet of the stand to prevent warpage over time.
It is not so sturdy warping/sagging-wise at 1", but much better at 1.5", and darned near like granite at 2". Yes, because it is only styrofoam, it really could use a fascia, even if doorskin or masonite, and it could use backing of the same kind to keep knees out of it when being hoofed out to the car. At most it would be a back facing of 1/4" ply. However, you wouldn’t be the first to just go ahead and make an outer frame of 123" plywood strips and some joists below it, say every 2’ or so. Blocking in the corners as stiffeners and strengtheners wouldn’t hurt.
A hollow core door – Home Depot has plain hollow core doors (no lockset holes or hinge cutouts) in various widths up to 48 inches. I believe all of them are 80 inches long, but you could cut it shorter if you need to…
Insulating foam might work, but if you’re making something that your tree is going to go on as well, I’d go back to the 3/4" plywood (AC, or “one good side”). Frame it with 2x4 lumber (kiln dried), and put braces under it on 2’ centers. That won’t warp or sag, especially if you paint or seal the lumber.