At the moment I have no way to check this out so I am asking.
I would prefer to use 2 inch foam, with no plywood under it, if possible. Has anybody tried to glue 1 X whatever on edge, on the bottom of the foam board to stiffen it and prevent the vibration, hence the noise? These pieces would not contact any framing, just be glued with the appropiate glue to the foam.
I see no reason why you couldnt attach 1x cross braces direct to the foam ,but the main thing Ive heard to keep sound down is to use an adheisive that stays flexible like a calking product for the foam ,roadbed ,and track .(but Im not an expert ,but im getting ready to attach the foam to bench ) this Is what Iv been told …ps If wrong an I get a sound reverb from the foam board I well probubly try attaching some random cut squares of the cheap sound board they have at H.D to the bottem side of the bench/foam work or just try to ignore it
Does securing cork roadbed to Homasote subroadbed with latex caulk work well or not?
Ive never done ether ,BUT Ive worked calking in my job for thirty years and would say ,if a spike can hold Im shure latex will grab ,just remember the kitchen & bath tubes (there red &white ) have more adhiesive than the painters calk,but its a bit thicker to work with . Im sure it would be fine
I agree with Jim. build your benchwork any way you wish, use matte medium to adhere the ballast and run your trains.
I was a few days away from posting the same question pre-construction. I’ve been running ad hoc tests using plywood, foam and woodland scenics roadbed. I all permutations of these, I get a really annoying metal on metal whine as I push cars along the track. The one quiet combination I found was track laid directly on OSB of all things. When I interpose the WS roadbed, the metal-metal whine is back, though somewhat muted. If I can find a chunk of Homosite, I’m guessing it will be at least part of the answer.
The quietest method I have tried and will stick with to date is spline sub roadbed or 3/4" birch plywood works very well also homasote topped with homabed roadbed and track glued not nailed down with silicone adhesive. Yup basically take right out of the Realistic Reliable Track publication but mine was down a few months before it came out…lol Being as there is no positive connection between the track to the bench work no sound it transmitted to the bench work. hence no vibrating wood what so ever.
I can run a train over section of it and hear nothing ore then the wheels on the rails and the occasional click as it passes a rail joiner.
I have used matte medium to ballast some track I haven’t noticed an appreciable difference not to say that it isn’t true because the reasoning behind it makes perfect sense. I will say it’s gotten to the point of obsession to make a railroad run as quiet as possible when a few years back I recall reading in MR where guys would take a razor saw and cut a small grove in the rails every scale 39’ simulating prototypical rail joints so one would get that clickity clack as the train rolled down the track just like the real trains which if anyone hasn’t noticed are far from quiet and neither are the rails when they run over them.
http://s423.photobucket.com/albums/pp312/tangerine-jack/?action=view¤t=heavyloadrailflex.flv
You mean quiet like this video in which 100% of audio is track noise? Piffle on quiet. Never heard a quiet train apart from Acela.
I’m just getting ready to lay track on 2 inch foam that is going to be put on 1 X 4 inch frames. Each frame is 2 X 4 ft .The complete layout is modular [around the room] so it can be disassembled when the time comes. I plan on using caulk to join the foam to the framework. The track will be laid on the cork roadbed. My question is: Should I use the latex caulk to fasten the cork to the foam, or would the camper tape be a better choice? Also, what would be a good source for the tape?
Thanks
I would not use the tape. I can see big problems using the tape and having uneven roadbed. I stand to be corrected on this though. I used caulk and the cork lays nice and flat on the foam.
I used PL300 to glue my 2" foam to my 1x4s and it’s great. However I think next time I would at least experiment by using caulk to do this, as it would make the foam somewhat salvageable and possibly more quiet. Just my[2c].
Brent
I agree. It’s why I swap plastic wheels for metal ones. And I have sound in the locomotives as well. Didn’t think I’d like it at first, but now there’s no going back.
Enjoy
Paul
Forgive my ignorance, but are you all talking about using artist’s Liquitex or other brand matte medium, and, second, are you talking about using it straight or diluted like white glue is diluted? Thanks.
Most of us, maybe not all, but most of us, would use Mod Podge or some other matte medium available at Wal Mart or craft stores. And most of us would dilute it somewhat. Maybe close to 50/50, although I only use yellow carpenter’s glue and I dilute it to about one part glue to six parts water, plus two drops of dish detergent.
-Crandell
great…that’s exactly what I’ll do…I’ve been using white glue, but now that I have a chance to start a new layout from scratch, I want to improve. Thanks again.
I’ve used both, on the same layout, and can detect absolutely no difference other than the price. Mind you, the layout is built on very solid benchwork, with 3/4" thick sub roadbed and cork layed atop that (in most, but not all places). Perhaps there’s more noise generated by foam-based layouts, particularly when the builder uses lightweight framework in the interests of portability.
Wayne
I think you might find the only difference in Modge Podge and white glue is that Modge Podge will not soften with water once set. BILL