The best operating steam loco that is readily available? My choice would be the 1st run BLI Hybrid New Haven I-5 4-6-4 (QSI). The loco weighs in at 2 lbs., will run at 80mph, and will pull a 12 car passenger train up a 2.5% grade without traction tires. The 2nd run I-5 (Paragon 2) had traction tires and a smoke unit which means it weighs a little less.
The best operating steam engine I’ve ever seen is the brass W&R New Haven Y-3 0-8-0 (USRA). Basically a match for the LLP2K USRA 0-8-0, the W&R model is even better running. Top speed is low, but then it’s a switcher. Pulling power? Plenty, especially with some more lead sheet inside. The clincher is that it is soooo smooth and silent. There is not a single hitch or bind, there is no gear noise. Easily the best I’ve seen or heard.
Since the question was asked of HO scale and not HO gauge, I’d argue for the Blackstone K-27. Your track needs to be a little narrower to run them, though…[;)]
For me, the best running steamer right out of the box is Bachmann’s 2-8-0 (their first Spectrum release, I think). I have eight of them…
I also have six Athearn Mikados, which were very nice runners right out of the box, but not very good at pulling a train. I fixed that problem…
I also have two Bachmann Ten Wheelers (heavily modified)…
…a Bachmann USRA Light Mountain (altered somewhat and some operational issues corrected),…
a Bachmann USRA 2-6-6-2 (much modified - a nice runner but a little light in the pulling department, so I’m still working on it)…
In addition, I have a Proto 0-8-0, which is a smooth runner but could barely pull its own shadow - it’s been totally re-detailed and the pulling issue corrected…
Another surprisingly decent locomotive is my IHC Mogul, not originally a great puller, but now improved and also modified cosmetically…
I usually run it with an ex-B&M B-15 Mogul from Samhongsa. This locomotive didn’t run at all when I got it, but it’s been re-motored and re-detailed, and is a smooth runner and very decent puller despite its d
I just received my first plastic steam engine, the NP Z-8 Challenger, ran great hauled at least 25 cars with no problems and sounded good.
I also have a number of brass engines which I have used extensively, among my favorites is an old United WP 2-8-2 which after a good break in and added weight, took 3rd place for Steam Performance at the 1977 Denver NMRA Convention.
I also number among my favorites a Challenger PRR N1s 2-10-2, an Alco Models streamlined K4 4-6-2, a United Crown C&O 2-8-2 and a Samohngsa N&W Class A 2-6-6-4.
Sheldon, How does this final product look? I have looked at the Proto 2-8-8-2 a time or two, and I always thought the trailing truck looked a little silly. I can’t exactly figure out what is off about it, but it is not right to my eye.
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Did you simply remove the trailing truck, or was more work involved?
Kevin, I can try to get a photo up a little later. But all I did was remove the trailing truck.
While the trailing truck on the USRA/Y3 2-8-8-2 does “look funny”, that is the way they were. It was not there so much to support weight but to “steer” the loco when backing up, just like a lead truck steers the loco going forward.
Some roads felt this was important, others not so much. The B&O had a large fleet of 2-8-8-0’s and even took second hand 2-8-8-2’s (not USRA locos) from the Seaboard Air Line and converted them to 2-8-8-0’s.
So I took the same approach with my Proto 2-8-8-2’s for my ATLANTIC CENTRAL.
Ok I understand why you lost the trailing truck and all, but to me they just look a little odd without it. Seems like a long distance without any support at all…
I do agree the regular trailing truck also seems to not fit right, though, and it is your railroad.
Yes, nice pictures of those engines, but I think the rear USRA overhang is actually slightly more…on the B&O engines the front cab wall appears to be just a bit over the driver…not so for USRA…they are neat engines. My friend had an Overland EL3A and an EL5A…I once had 3 UP Bull Moose 2-8-8-0’s from the same year’s run. Missing them all a bit now, but some had electrical issues. That was why I sold mine. Some things I was unable to fix. Having bought mine on yearly OMI sale I was able to sell and break even!
What about that topic a while ago to argue that brass steam was the best running (over) steam engines in HO and IIRC, the topic discussed bad experiences with plastic. Has there been a change in sentiment since that topic?
My steam fleet is fairly humble compared to a lot of posters here. I have 11 steamers, 8 of which are runners, one is a hanger queen, and 2 are project locomotives awaiting their turn in the shop. My best runner is an old diecast Mantua Pacific. The original open frame motor was decent. A can motor conversion kit gives really good low speed performance.
Equally good runner is a Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 Consolidation. I have had it since 2003, shortly after Bachmann introduced them. Its still pretty much stock.
And, nearly as good a runner, an IHC Mogul 2-6-0. The IHC is too light to be a good puller, and I didn’t find any room inside to add lead, but it stays on the track and stays coupled, and is decent at slow speeds.
Rail Images, I clicked each image to full size and then copied the image link into this post.
I have been accused of not being objective, of being overly biased in favor of brass, so I thought we could “revisit” the question and see where it actually leads.
I am searching out what is worthwhile due to a change in financial status. My son needs to play travel baseball to get playing time due to local politics. That will cost me literally thousands of dollars (it’s what he wants to do and he is actually good). Just yesterday a catcher from a team who mercy-ruled his JV team talked to him at a local university’s baseball clinic, and was in utter disbelief, seeing my son pitch yesterday, that the jv team wouldn’t pitch him, and said he should have been the starting pitcher instead of pitching mop up to get the last batter of the season out…that it would have been a far different game!
I do firmly believe you get what you pay for, and there are certain engines out there, some named specifically above in this thread that run extremely well, in my opinion, and clearly the opinion of others above this post, better than anything available in plastic. However, that can come at extreme cost.
And yes, an Athearn Genesis 4-6-6-4 may run 95% or 98% as well as much more expensive brass, but I’m not quite convinced that it would be truly “better than”…
So we’ll keep the discussion going and I’ll try not to get judgmental of anybody’s comments or preferences. Thank you all.
I’m a Southern Pacific Cab Forward / large articulated guy. I bought my first CF in 1993, a Rivarossi AC-10 and I fell in love with it. It has run perfect for 24 years.
I’m into restoring clunkers and I have built my steam fleet into over 30 wonderful running locomotives. With a little TLC I believe every steam locomotive can be a good runner (well almost). I have over twenty Rivarossi articulateds that run perfect DC or DCC.
Mel
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
What about that topic a while ago to argue that brass steam was the best running (over) steam engines in HO and IIRC, the topic discussed bad experiences with plastic. Has there been a change in sentiment since that topic?
I have been accused of not being objective, of being overly biased in favor of brass, so I thought we could “revisit” the question and see where it actually leads.
I am searching out what is worthwhile due to a change in financial status. My son needs to play travel baseball to get playing time due to local politics. That will cost me literally thousands of dollars (it’s what he wants to do and he is actually good). Just yesterday a catcher from a team who mercy-ruled his JV team talked to him at a local university’s baseball clinic, and was in utter disbelief, seeing my son pitch yesterday, that the jv team wouldn’t pitch him, and said he should have been the starting pitcher instead of pitching mop up to get the last batter of the season out…that it would have been a far different game!
I do firmly believe you get what you pay for, and there are certain engines out there, some named specifically above in this thread that run extremely well, in my opinion, and clearly the opinion of others above this post, better than anything available in plastic. However, that can come at extreme cost.
And yes, an Athearn Genesis 4-6-6-4 may run 95% or 98% as well as much more expensive brass, but I’m not quite convinced that it would be truly “better than”…
So we’ll keep the discussion going and I’ll try not to get judgmental of anybody’s c
Thank you for the pictures. It looks better to me as a 2-8-8-0. Do the rear set of driver wheels (unprototypically) swivel in the frame like a Bachmann EM-1? I do have 24" radius hidden curves that need to be dealt with.
I can’t go dcc, regardless of whether or not I like or don’t like it.
I have engines without decoders, that would not be easy or imo worthwhile to convert. I have to use the Tech 6, snd so far have had problems with only one manufacturers’ engines. Even before using the Tech 6, that importers’ engines gave me some trouble on my layout.
Yet others like them…
I want to retain dc compatibility, so must straddle the fence. I would be closer to removing all decoders than keeping them.
I own 4 HO steam locomotives: a BLI Milwaukee S-3, a MTH DM&IR Yellowstone, a Bachmann USRA light 2-10-2, and a Rivarossi USATC S100 0-6-0.
The only one I would not recommend is the Bachmann 2-10-2, which pulls poorly for a locomotive its size.
The S100 works well for such a small locomotive, but that still means that the electrical pickup and pulling power are limited.
The S-3 is a very good puller although I had some problems when there was a kink in the trackwork at the club (although from the problems other people had I don’t think it was especially suceptible to less-than-perfect track).
The Yellowstone runs and pulls well, and was able to handle the track that fouled up the S-3. I think this is because the model has a lot of play in the drivetrain, which helps with staying on the track, but does make it occasionally look a little wobbly. I also had a problem with the excess play causing it to accidentally wedge itself against a support beam in the club roundhouse when I tried to back it out.
