I am looking for the best pic for automatic switches on a 4X8 that will be expanded to 4X11 - They will be used on my inner loop to access accessories - Engines on them will be Williams or Post War switchers (or a Turbine doing duty as a switcher) - Right now I have o27 but will gladly switch to O if it allows a better option - Would prefer to buy them new - I am open to any consideration - Lionel, GarGraves, etc… It will be sort of a mini yard so there may be several of them used closely together - Looking for dependability and minimal headaches
The outer loop (not connected to the inner) is o-27 with 42" radius curves
Know you probally don’t want to hear this really but for a perminet layout I would think ross switches with gargraves track. Don’t take me wrong I like both O-27 tubalar track and gargraves but think for perminet Its gargraves with ross more pro’s use them than anyother from what I understand.
IMHO, K-Line had the best reasonably priced automatic (and non-derailing) tubular switches for O27 and O - the newer low-profile style - in both 27" and 42" for O27. Good luck finding any now though (haven’t seen any show up on the 'bay for awhile).
My second choice (a very close second actually) O27 profile auto switch has been the Marx plastic-topped low profile switches (in 27" and 34"). They aren’t techically non-derailing, however a diesel has enough weight to push the swivel rail into the correct position when approaching from the wrong direction - probably not as much of a concern if you’re using them for sidings instead of reverse loops. The Marx are powered separately from track power - I use an Atlas #56 switch controller (same ones used for HO switches) instead of the large switch button panels that Marx supplied - the Atlas ones can be daisy-chained directly together without extra wiring for power. Only drawback to the 27" Marx versions is that they have no direction indicator or light to tell which way the switch is set. That, and both 27" and 34" versions require adding a guide rail to the turnout side to prevent picking the frog, as discussed earlier here:
The Marx switch covers are low enough to clear longer passenger, freight, and engines that won’t clear a Lionel (or older K-Line) 27" switch with the large housings. Both versions show up fairly regularly on the 'bay, usually running from $10-30 or so a pair with shipping (just picked up another 27" pair for just under $10 shipped) - caveat emptor, as always when dealing with the 'bay.
I origionally used lionel o27 switches (1122) with o27 tubular track. they weren’t reliable and noisy when the train rode over it. I started replacing them with ross switches and have never looked back. they are smooth as silk and have a great look. they come in almost any radius you can think of and they are the same price or cheaper than the new lionel stuff which doesn’t compare in quality. all you need to mate up to o27 tubular track is adapter pins as the height is within 1/64" of each other. slowly I have been replacing the tubular with gargraves phantom as I really like the look. I still keep 1 loop of tubular for nostalgia. below is a pic of the realistic look they give. no balast yet.
I like GarGraves switches as they have more sizes than most others except Ross switches and GarGraves track mates up to Ross switch with just track pins as they use the same style track pins. GarGraves or Ross are much less trouble in the long run. GarGraves to tubular adapters fit right into the track and they make both adapter pins for 027 & O gauge track.
Atlas switches take up tooo much room on a small layout and the adapter pin transitions to tubular O gauge track are very ruff and can cause derailments. Also once you cut a piece off of Atlas track to make it fit to tubular track you loose the plastic connecter that is on the end.
Hey jmsiv/John - I’m switching to gargraves with ross switches too, but I can’t figure out the sizes on the ross switches like #4, #6 or “regular” switch. Is the #4 equivalent to O72? Which size do you use?
Of course the 031, 042 and 072’s type switches are pretty easy to understand. the diverging track has a diameter of the number given in inches
The larger the numbered switch (#4, #6, etc.) the broader, more sweeping it’s divergence. The size of numbered switches are calculated using the same formula as real railroads. Simply put, the diverging rail on a #6 switch will curve 1" away from the straight path for every 6" of distance from the switch points. Hypothetically, a full size standard gauge ( 4’ 8-1/2" ) #6 will measure 6 times that distance( 28’ 3" ) between the frog and switch points.
Real standard gauge railroads, if I’m not mistaken, generally didn’t use switches any smaller than #7’s. Even these would be considered too small for anything but the tightest of situations. Todays high speed turnouts probably number something like #20 -#25 or larger. Hope this helps.
I have been using GarGraves switches for about six years with no problems with the switch motors, maybe I forgot to tighten a wire enuff. Also GarGraves and Ross switches are low profile(similar to H.O. switches) and let everything pass over the top of them so no need to worry about passenger car overhang!
Not that knowledgeable about switch sizes in numbered turnouts but GarGraves & Ross have a wide variety of switches.
Thanks for the info - I really don’t want the really long switches, so the 4’s looked good. They have “regulars” which are apparently 11 degrees? They say the “regulars” are the original switch they sold and these are good for crossing from one track to another as you don’t have any s-curve, which makes sense. Good thread and thanks for that info Bruce and Lee!
I know there is a formula for this based on railroad standards but I have no clue. 90% of my switches are the 11 degree. I have a couple of 042 and 072.
