I am progressing with scenery and soon it will be time to ballast and I notice some of the turnouts are a bit more difficult to move (Caboose ground throws). I was wondering what lubricant is best, I have debated powdered graphite which is what I use in the 1-1 world, but I have lots of oils too, including some super lube stuff, also some liquid graphite… I know it is a good idea to oil before ballasting to prevent a mistake so the question is which one to fix the problem now and prep for ballasting later???
Keeping them clean is a very good first start, and also knowing how to remove them if they get dirty so that you can swish 'em in some warm soapy water to clean them once again. They should ‘wear-in’ with use, but if you would like more assurance, two options would be a tiny drop of smeared white lithium grease where it would do the most good, or try the powdered graphite. Personally, I would be afraid that grease would eventually harden or become contaminated with grit and dust over time due to its nature, so I would try the graphite. You can always abandon that choice if it doesn’t work out over time…by swishing in hot soapy water and trying something else.
Crandell
Refering to the turnouts, just mentioned the ground throws for information, can’t remove the turnouts.
I would use dry graphite or teflon. Liquids can actually cause some added friction in this case. As mentioned and you likely know, clean is key as well as proper clearance too.
Richard
That sounds a little strange, to me about,the ground throws needing, lubricate… Are you sure there is not anything else,preventing them from moving easily… I have about 15, and never had to try to lubricate them because they were hard to throw…
Frank
If a turnout isn’t operating smoothly it needs servicing not lubrication. A good cleaning and a tuneup of the moving parts should clear things up.
Joe
Rrbell,
Sorry about the ground throw thing,I was thinking,turnouts and got side tracked, I wanted to ask,the make of the turnouts,if they are on a road bed,whether they are, caulked,or nailed down…
Frank
Frank, I also feel that You need to check the “operation” and clearances for any obstruction, glue etc, first. Not sure of your method of attaching the track and your roadbed. If you caulked the track down, did you also secure the turnouts? Caulk could have oozed into the throwbar. If you nailed/ spiked them, they may be too tight against any roadbed. Flip the throwbar rigorously and try to “feel” where the binding happens. I would only lubricate as a last resort and still be leary to us any oil as it can attract a considerable amount of dirt/ dust and thicken, defeating your intentions.
Has anyone used the liquid graphite sold by Micro Mark? It is supposed to be a conductor of electricity as well as a lubricant
Shinohara turnouts and all worked perfectly when installed. Instillation was caulk on cork. Been a bit dusty due to construction.
RREBELL,
It’s quite possible,that the cork,swelled,in certain areas…Did you put any type of paint,on the bare cork,first???
Cheers,
Frank
i find that a little labelle oil on the moving parts of the Caboose Industries ground throws makes them much smoother acting. a bit of oil where the throw bar rubs the ties won’t hurt anything either.
be happy in your work
charlie
Our family dentist gave me a few dental picks that were half-broken or worn out. I find these invaluable for probing under the throwbar and cleaning out anything that may have gotten caught under there, like poorly-behaved ballast or glue overflow. I use foam roadbed and I sometimes notch the roadbed beneath the throwbar to make sure there’s nothing for it to rub against.
If the throwbar is still sticky, I put Labelle grease under it. Also, try putting some Labelle on the ties where the points move back and forth. The throwbar may be fine, but there can be friction between the point rails and the ties as they move across. On the last turnout I installed, I painted the turnout before installation. The paint resulted in sticky point motion. I cleaned the tie-tops with alcohol and applied Labelle grease there, and now the Tortoise moves it smooth as silk.
Great ideas!!! By the way, cork dose not absorb measurable amounts of water (as far as we are concerned, none).
I’m in HOn3, so good electrical contact through a turnout is vital.
Most of my turnouts are operated by a Tortoise, with the frog power switched by its contacts, but with the points relying on the Shinohara rivet for their feed. I do have a few Caboose throws on my original module and these rely solely on point contact to route current through the frog. The rivet is the only feed for power through the frog with these.
I use a tiny dab of CRC 2-26 on the rivet to help contact. I also clean the contact area ion the points and rails, then take a CRC 2-26 moistened popsicle stick between the point and rail to help contact there. I sometimes use a tiny punchinto the center of the rivet, then gently rotate it around trying to spread the rivet to tighten it, which will also help contact.
Good,advice,Mike,but I believe,he is having restrictive,movement,off the,throw-bar,not a conductive,problem…
Frank
That is correct. The high level switchstands are harder to adjust though with their original ones but the new design seems to work better. I also have a wire run for the frog but not hooked up to anything yet. Was thinking of just wiring it up to a spst center off but wondered if I should recess them into the fascia to prevent accidental shorts. Maybe I will invent something that will work better.
OK, you all had me a little confused there[:S]
If the throwbar is hanging up, the only “lube” I’d use on it would be the powdered teflon.
Mostly, you want to fix what’s sticking first. For that, I use a small set of “shivs” that I cut from phosporbronze sheet. They’re in different widths and tips to clear any pieces of ballast, etc. This lets me get in, around and underneath the throwbar.