I recently bought a BLI 4-8-4 ATSF and was disappointed when I tried to run it. Due to the size of the engine and tender, it kept hitting part or my scenery as it tried to make the 18" radius curves. I’m not ready to rework the scenery, so I’m wondering if anyone has any idea if one of the 2-8-2s (Heavy or Light) or the new K4s might work better (i.e. significantly shorter and better at maneuvering the 18" radius curves).
How close is the scenery to your track at the curve? My guess is that if your 4-8-2 had problems, a 2-8-2 will also. General rule: the longer the train, the more edge clearance you’re going to need on your curves. That’s true for track centers - i.e. spacing between two parallel tracks - as well. 2-1/2" track centers on curves is usually a minimum.
I’ve modeled it so that the track is only about 1.25" away from the track center. And it is just barely hitting in these areas, so I’m thinking that something slightly shorter may be the answer.
Marc:
I have a BLI Mikado and it also has bad overhang on 18" radius curves. You might want to look at a P2K 0-6-0 or 0-8-0, or maybe a Spectrum 2-8-0, or hope that BLI comes out with some small steam…
Any loco that is longer than a foot will hang over the tracks and
require more room to operate without problem. On the curves,
try to measure the overhang and then adjust the scenery to your
engine to avoid further damage. If your curves are less than 22"R
than go no larger than 2-8-0.
A Mike or Consolidation would be ideal for super tight clearances. With curves that sharp, I don’t imagine you’ll be hauling much.
I don’t know how a BLI 3751 could even take 18" radius. Mine kept derailing on what looked like fine 24" radius curves before.
P2K, 2-8-4, MR March 04 review will handle 18". Also #4 Turnouts per LL
Spectrum 2-6-6-2, MR June 04 review will handle 18" , The double truck design allows the model to negotiate a 18" radius curve and reduces its front-end overhang on sharp curves.
Spectrum 2-8-0 , June 98 review will handle 15"
Riv 2-6-6-6 Allegheny. MR Feb 02 has an operational draw bar setting and extra short overhang cab to permit smaller radius.
IMO, I would stay away from the Athearn light Pacific & Mikado due to developing crack drive problems.
I have two branch lines that run off the main that have 15 in radius turns I run my bli mikes down these branches all the time without problems of derailment. Although they are allways running at slower speeds and there is no scenery to impead the overhang,as far as radius they will run on some pretty tight turns.Before switching to dcc spectrum 2-8-0 and lifelikes 0-8-0 along with athern sw 1500’s were the loco’s I used for running these lines.However if I was a little more informed when I first built my layout there would not be a curve anywhere with less than 28in and 30 in or better easements.I have two of bli’s powerhouse series mikes and as I stated earlier they will track through some very tight turns,But i don’t mean to say that they have never derailed in these turns.
How complicated would it be to adjust the scenery JUST ENOUGH to clear the loco? I’ve got some tight clearances on my Yuba River Sub, due mainly to rock cuts, and some brass Articulateds with big overhangs–I just took a hobby knife and chipped away at the protrusions enough to clear the locos. Agree with Aggrojones, however–surprised that your BLI Northern even TOOK an 18" radius (even though the manufacturer insists that they can). Unless you plan on using larger radius curves in the future, you might be wiser to stick to 2-8-0, 4-6-0 and maybe a light USRA 2-8-2. Spectrum makes nice little Consols and Ten-Wheelers, and I understand that the new BLI light 2-8-2 is a honey. And as someone else on this thread indicated, the Spectrum 2-6-6-2 is double-articulated to reduce the boiler overhang–AND–that little jewel is powerful enough to pull the paint off the walls! But I’d seriously see what scenery you can adjust to accommodate the Northern. Sometimes it doesn’t take as much work as you’re afraid it will. Believe me, I know from experience.
Tom